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  • Advice on Mako 25 Purchase

    Long time reader, first time poster. This is a tremendous forum wth massive amounts of information. Thank you all. I love these old Makos.

    Okay, I've had the boat itch for a while now and I came across a Mako 25 the other day. Don't know the year, but it is probably 76-81. Been sitting out of water for a couple of years. Has what looks like a first gen Yamaha 250 hpdi on it that the owner says he paid $5,700 for. Also has a folding Tuna Tower with controls. And appears to have had the stern fish box/live well modified. I'll attach the few photos that I have. I plan to go look at it this weekend as it's about 4 hours away.

    I will definitely compression test the motor myself. I plan on looking for flex in the transom and tapping all over the transom, hull, and any stringers I can get to. I will also try and get it on the water for a trial.

    1. Where is the best place to look for wet foam?

    2. The modified stern box makes me think that the boat may have been restored in the past. If so, where is the best place to see evidence of restoration?

    3. Owner says that the tanks have been drained. I wanted to smell the bildge for fuel as evidence of fuel tank leaks. Any way to tell, other than pressure testing?

    4. Is an asking price of $7,900 including trailer a fair price?

    5. The owner has another 25 that needs a complete restoration. He will sell both for $10k. Should I pick both up?

    6. Anything I should be concerned about with the tuna tower?

    7. Boat name is "My Mak-Over". Anyone know this boat?













  • #2
    Looks like an ex-florida boat. Honestly that is a pretty good condition older 25 from what I can see in the pictures. I have the same motor with almost 1,400 hours on it (new powerhead ~300 hours) and cruise around 30 mph depending on bottom condition. Check the brass drain tubes in the transom drains for any pinholes. That is what killed my transom. I would go ahead and plan on new tanks in the future and most definitely replacing the fuel fill and vent hoses. These boats used an aluminum pipe where the gunwale and floor transition is and they are notorious for rotting and letting fuel into the foam. Most cut an access hole in the gunwale right there to access from there as well as under the floor with the fuel tank hatch out.

    As for the fish box in the stern, that's something I plan to do to mine in the future as it really opens up the fishing space, doesn't necessarily mean it's been restored. I would also check to see if anyone has drilled holes in the stringers so the water will run from the outside of the stringers to the bilge. If so, they should be fiberglassed..another thing that killed my transom and a couple feet of stringers.

    Batteries should be moved from the bilge to the console, as well as the oil tank. Those appear to be Yamaha controls so somesome spent some money rigging the boat at one time. I'd say it looks like a great platform to start, just plan on the tank job and a good scrubbing. The motor is hit or miss. You need to have it checked for all updates and replace ALL filters on the motors. HPDI's demand clean fuel, but they are pretty easy to work on once you learn them, but it does require annual if not semi-annual owner maintence. If the motor runs, I'd say it's a very fair deal and I'd take it home!

    One other thing I'd check is the front deck. The cleats can come lose and cause water intrusion. Also check the front cleat to bow eye connection. Probably rusted through so don't use the front lifting ring.

    Good luck!
    quote:


    Originally posted by ClemsonMako


    Long time reader, first time poster. This is a tremendous forum wth massive amounts of information. Thank you all. I love these old Makos.

    Okay, I've had the boat itch for a while now and I came across a Mako 25 the other day. Don't know the year, but it is probably 76-81. Been sitting out of water for a couple of years. Has what looks like a first gen Yamaha 250 hpdi on it that the owner says he paid $5,700 for. Also has a folding Tuna Tower with controls. And appears to have had the stern fish box/live well modified. I'll attach the few photos that I have. I plan to go look at it this weekend as it's about 4 hours away.

    I will definitely compression test the motor myself. I plan on looking for flex in the transom and tapping all over the transom, hull, and any stringers I can get to. I will also try and get it on the water for a trial.


    1. Where is the best place to look for wet foam?

    2. The modified stern box makes me think that the boat may have been restored in the past. If so, where is the best place to see evidence of restoration?

    3. Owner says that the tanks have been drained. I wanted to smell the bildge for fuel as evidence of fuel tank leaks. Any way to tell, other than pressure testing?

    4. Is an asking price of $7,900 including trailer a fair price?

    5. The owner has another 25 that needs a complete restoration. He will sell both for $10k. Should I pick both up?

    6. Anything I should be concerned about with the tuna tower?

    7. Boat name is "My Mak-Over". Anyone know this boat?














    1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
    1985 Mako 20c - sold
    Fort Walton Beach, FL
    http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you very much for the advice Sailor! 2 questions:

      1. Where is the best place to look for the stringer drain holes?

      2. I've read that calling Yamaha is a way to check the hpdi motor for updates. Is there a specific number I should call or is the customer service capable of transferring me to the correct person?

      Thank you.
      quote:


      Originally posted by Sailor


      Looks like an ex-florida boat. Honestly that is a pretty good condition older 25 from what I can see in the pictures. I have the same motor with almost 1,400 hours on it (new powerhead ~300 hours) and cruise around 30 mph depending on bottom condition. Check the brass drain tubes in the transom drains for any pinholes. That is what killed my transom. I would go ahead and plan on new tanks in the future and most definitely replacing the fuel fill and vent hoses. These boats used an aluminum pipe where the gunwale and floor transition is and they are notorious for rotting and letting fuel into the foam. Most cut an access hole in the gunwale right there to access from there as well as under the floor with the fuel tank hatch out.


      As for the fish box in the stern, that's something I plan to do to mine in the future as it really opens up the fishing space, doesn't necessarily mean it's been restored. I would also check to see if anyone has drilled holes in the stringers so the water will run from the outside of the stringers to the bilge. If so, they should be fiberglassed..another thing that killed my transom and a couple feet of stringers.

      Batteries should be moved from the bilge to the console, as well as the oil tank. Those appear to be Yamaha controls so somesome spent some money rigging the boat at one time. I'd say it looks like a great platform to start, just plan on the tank job and a good scrubbing. The motor is hit or miss. You need to have it checked for all updates and replace ALL filters on the motors. HPDI's demand clean fuel, but they are pretty easy to work on once you learn them, but it does require annual if not semi-annual owner maintence. If the motor runs, I'd say it's a very fair deal and I'd take it home!

      One other thing I'd check is the front deck. The cleats can come lose and cause water intrusion. Also check the front cleat to bow eye connection. Probably rusted through so don't use the front lifting ring.

      Good luck!
      quote:


      Originally posted by ClemsonMako


      Long time reader, first time poster. This is a tremendous forum wth massive amounts of information. Thank you all. I love these old Makos.

      Okay, I've had the boat itch for a while now and I came across a Mako 25 the other day. Don't know the year, but it is probably 76-81. Been sitting out of water for a couple of years. Has what looks like a first gen Yamaha 250 hpdi on it that the owner says he paid $5,700 for. Also has a folding Tuna Tower with controls. And appears to have had the stern fish box/live well modified. I'll attach the few photos that I have. I plan to go look at it this weekend as it's about 4 hours away.

      I will definitely compression test the motor myself. I plan on looking for flex in the transom and tapping all over the transom, hull, and any stringers I can get to. I will also try and get it on the water for a trial.


      1. Where is the best place to look for wet foam?

      2. The modified stern box makes me think that the boat may have been restored in the past. If so, where is the best place to see evidence of restoration?

      3. Owner says that the tanks have been drained. I wanted to smell the bildge for fuel as evidence of fuel tank leaks. Any way to tell, other than pressure testing?

      4. Is an asking price of $7,900 including trailer a fair price?

      5. The owner has another 25 that needs a complete restoration. He will sell both for $10k. Should I pick both up?

      6. Anything I should be concerned about with the tuna tower?

      7. Boat name is "My Mak-Over". Anyone know this boat?















      Comment


      • #4
        quote:


        Originally posted by ClemsonMako


        Thank you very much for the advice Sailor! 2 questions:


        1. Where is the best place to look for the stringer drain holes?

        2. I've read that calling Yamaha is a way to check the hpdi motor for updates. Is there a specific number I should call or is the customer service capable of transferring me to the correct person?

        Thank you.


        Look for any hole drilled through the stringer, but usually down low by the hull and near the transom. If you can stick your finger in the hole and feel wood, it's an issue.
        1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
        1985 Mako 20c - sold
        Fort Walton Beach, FL
        http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

        Comment


        • #5
          Great info. Thank you.

          [/quote]

          Look for any hole drilled through the stringer, but usually down low by the hull and near the transom. If you can stick your finger in the hole and feel wood, it's an issue.

          [/quote]

          Comment

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