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1976 Mako 19 Gas Tank issues

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  • 1976 Mako 19 Gas Tank issues

    Do I really need to replace my Gas Tank?

    The symptoms are: Smell of gas in the center console (very strong when full), and stalling out when at cruising speed for a while. Also-- smell of gas in the bilge when tank is full.

    Normally it runs fine, but stalled out 3 times going to Catalina from Dana point... a 40 mile cruise. It would run again if I re-primed with the hand pump, or raise the engine and lower it again. I replaced the fuel hose from tank to engine, and it did it again on my last outing. Seemed to stall more often after the fuel level was down by at least 1/4 tank.

    A friend of mine said to pull the tank and replace it because it must be rotted out! Starting to convince myself he must be right.

    any input from you experts?

    Thanks

    PH

  • #2
    any time you smell gas in the bilge you are in danger. if it is only when the tank is full it might be the hoses, but my tank was corroded around the top of the sides only. Do you have a fuel water separator between the tank and the engine?

    1) check the fill, vent hoses

    2) pull the tank.
    Richard Snyder[br]Wachapreague, VA[br][br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43622[br]http://www.vims.edu/esl/

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    • #3
      If your smelling fuel in the bilge you can have several issues going on. Vent and fill lines dry rotted, gas tank leak. I would pull the tank and take a looks at it. Your motor could be stalling out due to air and or dirt in tank. Just some thoughts. Does your outboard have a fuel filter on the motor where the fuel line comes in?
      1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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      • #4
        Thanks for the feedback...

        I replaced the vent hose and fill hoses, the short rubber hoses to the hull at the upper ends but not the metal hoses, I also added a clear glass filter that I was able to observe I didn't see any water in it.

        Looks like Ill be pulling the tank. Is this a major hassle with disconnecting he wiring and steering and throttle in order to get the console out of the way, or are there any tricks?

        Thanks

        PH

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        • #5
          No tricks, yes it's a hassle, disconnecting the wiring etc is the easy part. Sometimes getting the tank out can be a bear. Lots of us on here did it so you are in good hands. Start reading over some of the guys project pages to get more info. Do a search and change it to subject only and type in fuel tank or fuel tank removal or something like that.
          1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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          • #6
            OK Thanks I will be getting started

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            • #7
              I have a 1975 19-foot center console Mako. I replaced my fuel tank last year. Lots of pinholes in the end of the original tank from old age. Wasn't really a problem pulling the tank from the coffin under the center console. Did not have to unhook any cables. Usually there is enough play to unfasten the center console and elevate on 2X4's. Remove the coffin lid. On my mako, the fuel tank was snug and tight because of the foam, but was able to muscle out pulling up and forward towards front of boat. I ordered a new tank from Sunshine tanks in Florida who now has the 1975 Mako dimensions. When i cut up teh old tank, it was in surprisingly good shape except for teh area with pinholes. I coated teh new tank with coal tar epoxy to last forever and then fiberglassed the coffin lid to keep water out permanently.

              Mike

              Mako19

              Mobile Alabama

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              • #8
                test
                ..........

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                • #9
                  Hey experts... thanks for the advice:

                  I pulled the consul, then the hatch that covers the tank.

                  The Small hatch that covers the hoses would have shown me the main problem, that is the fill line and the vent line had been spliced and the hoses were rotted... the fill hose was half melted.

                  Now also I have a corroded fill pipe next to the weld (it shows in the photo). So... should I try to get that welded or just replace the entire tank?

                  I will be scraping off the foam today to examine the rest of the top of the tank today.

                  I'm still working on posting the photos ... next message thanks

                  PH

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                  • #10
                    If you've already gotten that far...replace the tank! Its a 1975...well beyond it's replacement date.
                    [/URL]

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                    • #11
                      quote:


                      Originally posted by DukeS


                      any time you smell gas in the bilge you are in danger. if it is only when the tank is full it might be the hoses, but my tank was corroded around the top of the sides only. Do you have a fuel water separator between the tank and the engine?


                      1) check the fill, vent hoses

                      2) pull the tank.


                      Very dangerous! My '82 21 Mako had corrosion on the tank top which was not noticed until I had the coffin lid off and was inspecting the tank and hoses. I started cleaning a few corrosion spots and discovered holes beneath the corrosion.

                      Better replace it. It is a bomb.

                      Classic \'82 Mako 21

                      [br]

                      This boat is a one of a kind classic 1982 Mako hull with 94 Mercury Offshore 200.

                      [br]

                      We recently completed a total overhaul and customization of the boat to include the following:

                      [br]
                        [br]
                      • New deck throughout.
                      • New transom, converted to full transom.
                      • New Awlgrip Oyster paint throughout.
                      • Live well integrated into full transom with forward viewing window and top access hatch, along with original in deck live well.
                      • Cooler integrated into full transom with top access hatch.
                      • Custom built Armstrong wide body bracket/swim platform with built in ladder mount, by Island Boat Works, Cape Coral, Fl.
                      • New custom King Starboard instrument panel, with ALL new gauges to include the addition of an hour meter, water pressure gauge and trim & tilt gauge.
                      • New custom King Starboard switch panel with red LED switch indicator lights.
                      • Rewired the entire electrical system throughout the boat with marine grade wiring.
                      • 2 new 1000 CCA batteries.
                      • Sea Systems blade style fuse block and separate, isolated fuse block for flood lights.
                      • Reworked teak (original) with 6 coats of teak varnish.
                      • New SS hatch springs on ALL hatches.
                      • New smoked Plexiglas access doors on console.
                      • Original Mako swivel seats at console, interchangeable with 4 rod holder leaning post(included).
                      • New custom 109 gal. fuel tank up from the stock 86 gal. tank, by Custom Marine Tanks in Jupiter Florida.
                      • New fuel lines throughout, including engine.
                      • New trim/tilt motor.
                      • New Perko locking fuel cap.
                      • 94 Mercury Offshore 200 hp. completely rebuilt carburetors & current servicing. Ive had this engine since brand new. Has had annual service every year since, including annual water pump. Has never malfunctioned and cylinder compression still very high. Replaced rusty steering arm 2 years ago. Runs like new!
                      • 4 New SS Perko rod holders in gunwale.
                      • New stern and amidships, pop-up cleats.
                      • New bilge pump.
                      • New bilge pump float switch.
                      • New Quicksilver GenII remote control on center console.
                      • New Quicksilver GenII premium remote control cables, by Island Boat Works, Cape Coral, Fl.
                      • New SS steering wheel with steering knob.
                      • New Teleflex SeaStar helm steering assembly.
                      • New SS fuel filter bracket by, Island Boat Works, Cape Coral, Fl.
                      • New steering hydraulic hoses, custom routed through the Armstrong bracket by Island Boat Works, Cape Coral, Fl.
                      • New oiler hoses, by Island Boat Works, Cape Coral, Fl.
                      • All controls, cables and hoses custom routed through Armstrong bracket and 2 rigging tube to engine, by Island Boat Works, Cape Coral, Fl.
                      • New Sunbrella T-Top canvas, black, by Cape Canvas, Cape Coral, FL.
                      • Outriggers (not installed).
                      • Garmin GPSMap 478.
                      • Garmin FishFinder 340C.
                      • Apelco VHF radio.
                      • Cannon downrigger, (not installed) & needs cable end repaired.
                      • Clarion Marine stereo system.
                      • West Marine T-Top mounted stereo speakers.
                      • Forward & rear flood lights.
                      • Fluorescent T-Top console area light.
                      • Original Mako console mounted courtesy lights.
                      • 2004 Performance trailer with new tires & spare tire, great condition.
                      • New anchor & rode.
                      • Search light.
                      • [br]New Starboard fish box hatches.
                      • [br]
                      [br]

                      Own this Turn Key Classic Mako For $15,000.00.

                      [br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br]Capt. Jim

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