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1978 Mako 20

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  • 1978 Mako 20

    Can anyone steer me in the right direction on what to look out for purchasing a 1978 Mako 20. I found one without power that's in very nice shape. Will a 1993 yamaha 115 power it sufficiently?

    Thanks

  • #2
    "sufficiently" = 150hp or better.

    140hp will run the boat ok, but you will be loading the engine, and probably blow it sooner rather than later. And I speak from experience.

    175hp (in a lower-weight 4-cylinder like the Suzuki) would be absolute best.

    200hp will be too heavy a motor, have the stern too low, with water coming in the scuppers onto the aft deck. (yes, it was rated for 200 motors, but that was for the lighter 2-strokes back then, which were also lower power as they were rated at the powerhead, not at the shaft like today).

    Of course, you could also put a 10hp on it and use it to go clambing, but then that's not my definition of 'sufficient'.

    Good luck -
    NYC & L.I. - 1974 \"Classic\" Mako 20\' - Suzuki 2006 DF150 - Fly & Light Tackle, C&R[br]My boat: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23444#159594[br]Personal website: http://www.georgemcauliffe.com/

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    • #3
      I had a 1980's OMC 140hp on my 76 M20. It was sufficient. I don't think smaller would be. Going to a larger motor at the time meant 6 cylinders vs 4 and a lot more weight, and I've never been a fan of "fixing" a boat design with trim tabs. (ducking rotten vegetables now, there should be a "smiley face" for that)

      Take a look at the market you have access to, whether that is used or new, and maximize the power to weight ratio, look for transition points (like 4 vs 6 cylinders used to be). A 20ft boat is not that big, but an M20 is not a small boat either. I knew someone who bought a brand new 20ft sportcraft in 2004, parked side by side, it was 2/3 the hull the M20 was.
      Richard Snyder[br]Wachapreague, VA[br][br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43622[br]http://www.vims.edu/esl/

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