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Blew my rectifier should I also replace stator?

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  • Blew my rectifier should I also replace stator?

    Engine is a carbed 2002 Evinrude 175 hp looper.

    Boat was running awesome as they always do before they break.

    All electronics optical sensor, powerpack, stator and rectifier are less than 2 years old.

    On the way out I noticed the tach stopped working and my volts dropped to 12ish but still had to run 15 miles to get back to the dock. The engine ran fine on the way back even at WOT so I think the powerpack survived.

    The wires on my 2 year old CDI rectifier are burnt where the wires enter the pack. You can see where the plastic melted.

    I took out the stator and watched a few Youtube videos on how to test them but I need to visit the CDI site. The stator looks OK. Epoxy is not oozing out or anything. One of the magnets (the one by itself opposite the other two) seems a little loose. Magents on flywheel are good.

    From the testing I have done the battery is not charging (steady 12.3 volts at any rpm), There is no voltage coming out of the purple wire (0 volts) to the tach.

    The DVA volts on the two fat yellow wires between stator and rectifier are 81 and 50 volts. Seems high as CDI mentions 18 to 20 with a 2 volt variance.

    I definitely need a rectifier but I'm not sure about the stator????

    So do I buy both or just one??? Labor day is right around the corner.

    Thanks
    1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

  • #2
    If you have a DVA and can test the stator and see it's failing, replace it.

    If you're unsure...if you already have the flywheel off, I'd probably just replace the stator anyway given you're in there.
    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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    • #3
      I have a DVA but already took the stator off the engine.

      I'm going to test the ohms now that I printed CDIs specs.
      1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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      • #4
        The stators ohms are all within specs.

        I would have to install it again and run the motor to get DVA numbers.

        If the ohms are within specs does it mean it is good?
        1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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        • #5
          quote:


          Originally posted by ralph50


          The stators ohms are all within specs.


          I would have to install it again and run the motor to get DVA numbers.

          If the ohms are within specs does it mean it is good?


          Not necessarily, no. That said, a bad stator will typically kill spark to a bank. Your description of the tach, plus the fried regulator wires, does point to the regulator not the stator.
          ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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          • #6
            quote:


            Not necessarily, no. That said, a bad stator will typically kill spark to a bank. Your description of the tach, plus the fried regulator wires, does point to the regulator not the stator.



            The regulator gets here tomorrow.

            Is there any harm on just installing it and starting her up on the muffs after checking wires and charging batteries???
            1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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            • #7
              Yes, you can reinstall the regulator and current stator, and flywheel, start her on muffs and confirm spark on all cylinders and check charging volts at battery.
              ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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              • #8
                Thanks. I never lost spark at all even at WOT.

                The boat ran well even when the Rec took a dump.
                1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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                • #9
                  Replaced the rectifier got my tach working and batt cahrging.

                  Found some rust on the cables so I am buying tinned cables with tinned ends.
                  1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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                  • #10
                    It motor running fine again?

                    congrats on getting it fixed always a good feeling
                    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The motor ran fine for 15 to 20 miles right after I noticed no tach and no charge.

                      Even after that my batts were still at 12.3 and 12.4 volts.

                      I just ran it on the muffs till I charge the batts, replace cables and look for the cause.

                      I'm happy it was just the Rec.

                      Last time it was the stator, rec, power pack and optical sensor. $800 in parts.

                      Thanks
                      1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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                      • #12
                        Look for some loose battery cables, especially on the battery selector switch. Usually the rec/reg will blow if it has no where to deliver the current. All the bouncing around loosens things up. At this point I have stainless Nylocs on almost everything. A bad cell in a battery will also do this. But you say you have 12.4 with engine off, so not the case
                        [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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                        • #13
                          quote:


                          Look for some loose battery cables, especially on the battery selector switch. Usually the rec/reg will blow if it has no where to deliver the current. All the bouncing around loosens things up. At this point I have stainless Nylocs on almost everything. A bad cell in a battery will also do this. But you say you have 12.4 with engine off, so not the case



                          Everything was tight but I did find some rust on the common ground cables.

                          I'm waiting on new tinned cables

                          Batts are at 12.9 two days after charging.
                          1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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                          • #14
                            I replaced my old battery cables with some hd tinned cables from Genuinedealz.

                            It was a very big improvement when starting the engine on just one battery.

                            Before I had to start the engine on both batteries whereas now it starts right up on just one.
                            1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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                            • #15
                              Well done....Green connectors are not good...LOL....now get some fish....
                              [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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