1994 Mercury 225HP, 3.0V6, Carb model. The boat sat for most of the summer unused so I went to add some fuel stabilizer and run it (South Florida winterization) and I now have a no-start condition. I should probably clarify this is a two stroke motor. The oil injection has been removed and I add oil to the fuel when I fill it.
It's been upgraded to the newer Merc CDMs. The stator is at 1170 ohms for all 6 cylinders (+/- 10 ohms) measured at the CDM connectors. I have the forward harness disconnected at the large cannon connector to rule out the ignition switch or kill switch. All 6 coils are disconnected, connecting them one at a time does nothing. The ECU is disconnected. The shift kill switch is disconnected. There is no continuity on the ground circuit (BLK/YEL wire) to ground. And absolutely no spark on any cylinder.
My understanding is that even with the ECU disconnected, it should throw a spark at base timing just off the stator.
My tach reads 200 RPM while cranking (with the ECU plugged in), so I'm ruling out the 12V to the ECU, the ECU itself, and crank sensor as contributors.
What am I missing? I'm going to throw the batter charger on it. CDM's troubleshooting guide says I should have 250RPM when cranking. It doesn't seem to be cranking any slower than usual; will this really make that much of a difference?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I do have a spare stator and ECU I can throw at it, but I'm not convinced either is giving me a no spark on any cylinder condition.
It's been upgraded to the newer Merc CDMs. The stator is at 1170 ohms for all 6 cylinders (+/- 10 ohms) measured at the CDM connectors. I have the forward harness disconnected at the large cannon connector to rule out the ignition switch or kill switch. All 6 coils are disconnected, connecting them one at a time does nothing. The ECU is disconnected. The shift kill switch is disconnected. There is no continuity on the ground circuit (BLK/YEL wire) to ground. And absolutely no spark on any cylinder.
My understanding is that even with the ECU disconnected, it should throw a spark at base timing just off the stator.
My tach reads 200 RPM while cranking (with the ECU plugged in), so I'm ruling out the 12V to the ECU, the ECU itself, and crank sensor as contributors.
What am I missing? I'm going to throw the batter charger on it. CDM's troubleshooting guide says I should have 250RPM when cranking. It doesn't seem to be cranking any slower than usual; will this really make that much of a difference?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I do have a spare stator and ECU I can throw at it, but I'm not convinced either is giving me a no spark on any cylinder condition.
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