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  • Teak

    I have a 1986 Mako21b and I would like to keep the Teak look. The oil does not seem to last long. Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Have you considered doing some kind of a varnish? Check awlgrip's site, they have some products for coating and protecting wood.
    [img=left]https://i.imgur.com/b1nW04t.jpg?2[/img=left][br]1975 23 Inboard [br]Chesapeake, VA[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=59930

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    • #3
      Thank you TBrown. I will check that out today.

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      • #4
        teak is one of those things that takes near constant maintenance to keep looking good.

        The "easiest" is to just keep it oiled several times a season.

        If you varnish it, as soon as water gets under the varnish you will have to strip it down and start over. Eventually you run out of teak to keep sanding to recondition.

        To get the high gloss teak finish is a lot of work and you have to sand every season and put on a fresh top coat. If you wait too long to topcoat and water gets under the varnish, then its even more work to redo.

        I've done miles and miles of high gloss teak on yachts growing up and during college. None of my boats have teak today, even though i love the deep high gloss look.

        I have started to see some outstanding faux teak finishes that are really difficult to tell that they are painted. I think this is really the way to go as the finish is much more dimensionally stable and will last as long as a decent marine paint job. But it takes real artistic talent to get the graining right.

        Good luck with your teak!

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        • #5
          Remove, sand, varnish...10-12 coats, wetsand between coats. With this method, you will have follow up with maintenance coats every several years depending on sun/UV exposure.

          IMO Varnish looks best -- better than cetol, better than oil.
          ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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          • #6
            Timely

            I'm currently redoing the varnish on my teak. I thought i only got a 'couple' of years out of it, then realized its been nearly 8 years since I last touched it. That was just striaght varnish maybe 10-12 coats iirc.

            This time, I started with West Epoxy after sanding down, first coat cut ~15% with acetone, light sanding, 2nd coat of West full strength. Now this mainly fills the valleys and gouges etc. As well as seals the wood (did all 4 sides). Then 4 coats of Schooner (not the gold thats stuff is too thick). First 2 coats were thinned with Interlux 333.

            Last coat I got a little dust in the garage as it was drying ughhh!

            But it looks amaze balls

            https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...FjVkduVGZOM19R

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            • #7
              Timely

              I'm currently redoing the varnish on my teak. I thought i only got a 'couple' of years out of it, then realized its been nearly 8 years since I last touched it. That was just striaght varnish maybe 10-12 coats iirc.

              This time, I started with West Epoxy after sanding down, first coat cut ~15% with acetone, light sanding, 2nd coat of West full strength. Now this mainly fills the valleys and gouges etc. As well as seals the wood (did all 4 sides). Then 4 coats of Schooner (not the gold thats stuff is too thick). First 2 coats were thinned with Interlux 333.

              Last coat I got a little dust in the garage as it was drying ughhh!

              But it looks amaze balls

              https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...FjVkduVGZOM19R

              Comment


              • #8
                I've tried them all, the longest method has been west epoxy and auto clear coat. I have some wood pieces on my boat that all I have done is sprayed with automotive clear coat and they are holding up. I am going to try that with a couple small pieces of teak.
                David, New Kent, Va[br]



                [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

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                • #9
                  I've tried them all, the longest method has been west epoxy and auto clear coat. I have some wood pieces on my boat that all I have done is sprayed with automotive clear coat and they are holding up. I am going to try that with a couple small pieces of teak.
                  David, New Kent, Va[br]



                  [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

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                  • #10
                    Hey Justin, had to tell you, I pulled off all the teak on my Mako 15. Sanded all components down, then followed your directions to varnish. They look like new! Unfortunately, I also found the seat backing wood was rotting pretty bad. I have all new materials coming to rebuild the seats now. My family decided on a darker green vinyl, I think it is called "Fern".

                    I tried the top coat as well, but it semi bubbled the varnish (tested it under one of the back seats). Decided to sand it off and re-varnish again. Maybe it was a cheap top coat?
                    Mark Kriz[br]Mako15 1974[br]Mercury Thunderbolt 800 1972[br]Maple Valley, WA[br][br]

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