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1968 19 - First 40

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  • 1968 19 - First 40

    So after a one way flight from Nawlins to Philly, a rental truck, 1350+ miles, and some 22 hours of drive time over 3 days.... I bought a first 40. I guess Im no stranger to road trips to get boats because Ive drove to Texas twice. Once for a 21 that I never finished and ended up selling and also once for my 261 that I still have. This boat popped up on the forum back in 2012 - 2013 when a member spotted it in a boat yard and then after no one on here pursued it, it went in ghost mode until I saw it pop up again in the classified section early this year. I was ready for a new project and luckily had 5 days off from work to go pick it up so I felt like it was calling me! The floor is shot as I can almost put my foot through the front deck. So along with that shell be getting a new Seacast transom and stringers. Ill try to keep it as close to original as possible within reason

















    I was extremely pleased with the condition of the hull other than the deck. I plan on doing all the demo and as much of the seacast work that I can with the help of my dad when time permits. What I cant do, I have a fiberglass guy who I know can handle it... just trying to save some money and scratch my restoration itch at the same time. Any and all input from everyone who has tackled a pourable transom or stringer job is welcomed and encouraged. Cant wait to get started ! Stay tuned!
    1990 - 261 [br]1968 -19 (First 40)[br][email protected]

  • #2
    Sweet find Dbrook. looking forward to following the refit. Good luck

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    • #3
      nice. Looking forward to watching this one.
      1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
      1985 Mako 20c - sold
      Fort Walton Beach, FL
      http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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      • #4
        Pressure washed the boat for about 2 hours today to get rid of all the neglect from years passed. Unfortunately the deck is so bad and the drainage design on these things are so bad that Im having to stand in dirty water when doing it. Really thinking of leaving the floor for now to help hold shape, pulling the entire cap, flipping it over and coring all of the gunneling. Then cut the floor out before reinstalling the cap. Once cap is on, install a new floor. .... after transom and stringers of course [B)]
        1990 - 261 [br]1968 -19 (First 40)[br][email protected]

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        • #5
          Happy to see they are still out there. There is another boat on the forum called "Anybody need a poor ole 19". The members name is PoleLock. This is the boat that I would look at. I also have a 19 that I have been rebuilding for the last 4 years. One of these days I will put up all of my pictures. Send me you email and I will send you all of the pictures and info that may help you out. It has been a while since I have heard Nawlins on this forum. A lot of northern boats on here.

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          • #6
            quote:


            Originally posted by usgbds2004


            Happy to see they are still out there. There is another boat on the forum called "Anybody need a poor ole 19". The members name is PoleLock. This is the boat that I would look at. I also have a 19 that I have been rebuilding for the last 4 years. One of these days I will put up all of my pictures. Send me you email and I will send you all of the pictures and info that may help you out. It has been a while since I have heard Nawlins on this forum. A lot of northern boats on here.



            Polelock is actually the person who stumbled upon this boat first back in 2012. He found it at a boat yard in Jersey and posted pictures on the site. To my knowledge this is one of 5 known to still be around. Going to make sure its around for another 50 + years.
            1990 - 261 [br]1968 -19 (First 40)[br][email protected]

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            • #7
              So how much should I leave myself when cutting this floor out ? My skill saw is about 1 3/4 from blade to end of the fence. Should I scribe a line and give myself a little more for tabbing back in ?
              1990 - 261 [br]1968 -19 (First 40)[br][email protected]

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              • #8



                1990 - 261 [br]1968 -19 (First 40)[br][email protected]

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                • #9
                  Cut all the way around and left myself 3 to be safe. Then used a hole saw to cut a hole right in front of the bilge access. Looped a dock line through it and hooked it to the truck and snatched the floor right up. Cant believe it worked that easy []

















                  I did however forget to remove my drill from the boat when I yanked the floor loose. Drill went flying about 20 ft. Now clutch doesnt work. Oh well Ill trade that $100 drill any day over manually ripping up that floor.
                  1990 - 261 [br]1968 -19 (First 40)[br][email protected]

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                  • #10
                    I left around that much when I did my 19. I also just put my deck on top . Raising the deck 3/4 to an 1" taller.

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                    • #11
                      Just a helpful tip.. and this might sound stupid but it worked for me.

                      Spade shovel for getting out the foam. Standard full size one like you would dig a hole with. I ended up figuring this out towards the end of the foam removal on mine.
                      [img=left]https://i.imgur.com/b1nW04t.jpg?2[/img=left][br]1975 23 Inboard [br]Chesapeake, VA[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=59930

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                      • #12
                        The foam came out effortlessly by hand. Large chunks and was able to bag them up and haul it off. My 261 was not as easy
                        1990 - 261 [br]1968 -19 (First 40)[br][email protected]

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