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  • Shakes_26
    replied
    Thanks Chuck, kind of brilliant clamping to the plate.... I have the same Hull as Troy (sent him a FB ssg, may need to call). I also have the same tub/setback as him too.

    I'm trying to get close and maybe only have to make 1 adj vs a bunch.

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  • ChuckB
    replied
    I have seen plenty about the "old rule of thumb" doesn't really apply to newer outboards and different foot designs, but I have really blown the 1" for every foot of setback out of the water. I did not have motor all the way down and ruler was flimsy, not likely straight line, but my quick experiment yesterday showed anti cavitation ~6" higher than the keel. When I first repowered I had the motor hung at a buddies shop, he went just above rule height mounting in the third hole, but after just a few runs I knew I wanted to go higher. I am mounted in top hole and haven't had any issues; rpm's are good, never run hot, no issues with blow out, etc... I do need to get a pic of anti cavitation plate when running next time out. I an curious if stroken and doc fees have measured theirs; different hulls and setbacks, but I think both are as high as will go.

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  • Shakes_26
    replied
    thanks, appreciate it!

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  • ChuckB
    replied
    Originally posted by Shakes_26 View Post
    Chuck, what's the setback on that bracket? Looks to be at or just under 24". Also how far up from the keel is the anti cavitation plate ? I'm curious as I'm in process of mounting my motor and wanted to see if anyone else had real world experience.
    Setback...


    The above pic was right after purchase with twins. I keep saying I need to get a shot showing keel to anti cavitation plate but keep forgetting. I will try to remember tonight. Here is a profile pic after I raised motor to highest holes; motor isn't tilted completely down but anti cavitation is definitely higher than keel.



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  • Shakes_26
    replied
    Chuck, what's the setback on that bracket? Looks to be at or just under 24". Also how far up from the keel is the anti cavitation plate ? I'm curious as I'm in process of mounting my motor and wanted to see if anyone else had real world experience.

    Leave a comment:


  • ChuckB
    replied
    This weekend I pulled the other fender and removed more bottom paint. Other than some touch ups, the only area left is between the bunks. I need some ideas for attacking this area with the boat on the trailer. I pulled the 224 off the trailer, but have no plans or desire to remove this beast from the trailer.



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  • ChuckB
    replied
    Free weekends in the fall are hard to come by, but had one this past weekend. We had offshore dreams, but seas and mother nature squashed. Being free with long list of boat work remained I decided to attack more bottom paint between showers.









    I found these Diablo SandNet pads that I am really impressed with. Where the paint is really thick I use a 220, and once I see any gel I switch over to 400. Sand a bit, pull off and dunk in a bucket of water to clean out, and back at it. This beast absolutely will not come off the trailer like my 224, so I am still not sure how I will complete but for now progress continues.

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  • ChuckB
    replied
    Scuppers are working great.



    I am going to make a list so I can prioritize what to do next. I plan to replace rod holders and add more, replace rub rail, replace t-top canvas, add outriggers, get console rewired, remove bow plate and get some get coal work done, and get custom cover made.
    Last edited by ChuckB; 09-27-2021, 10:23 AM.

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  • ChuckB
    commented on 's reply
    I'll update when installed, but these are the "Regulator Scuppers". Neoprene flap will cover the holes and theory is the flaps allow water out, but get pushed against hull and keep water out. You can see from pic above of me and Connor leaving the rodeo site the scupper holes are actually a couple inches above the water line, so only really an issue when alot of people at rear, in reverse, launching, etc... I put the T-H marine plastic on when I purchased, the previous owner ran the boat with nothing covering the holes. The boat has been in the water a few times already without issue, but I still want covered and keep as much water out as possible. Last trip was Connor with a couple buddies, so essentially 4 adults and no issues.

  • snappergapper
    replied
    How do those work chuck? Seems where you cut the sides will not be flush but have a gap

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  • ChuckB
    replied
    I ended up getting the Gemlux 845's and had cut to fit. I hope to install this week and give a good test weekend, but I think these will work well. I really liked the way the T-H Marine plastic scuppers with the shimm worked and have used on 2 different hulls. These certainly look better and are alot more money, so I am curious to see how the compare.






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  • Shakes_26
    replied
    I would think you have 2 realistic paths. As Raybo suggested have the Gemlux 845 milled down to fit, and really You only look to need the inboard side milled down.

    The other, is why not get 2 rubber flaps and make your self a cheap mold and mold 2 fiberglass frames, they'd jsut be holding the rubber flap in place. No need for SS or bronze, heck you could probably even use starboard or Coosa and router it out if you're a woodworker.

    If I wind up tight like that I may do the same.

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  • ChuckB
    replied
    I do have an unresolved issue with my scuppers; I discovered they no longer fit. With the new Lenco Edge Mount tabs, the space to cover the deck drains now, between bracket and tab ram, doesn't allow for most scuppers. Holes are already drilled, same location as were before transom, and the holes are too close together for individual circle scuppers. I had the T-H Marine plastic with shim, but they are just over 7' wide. I have been searching and most rectangular scuppers are 7"-8" wide; I need something about 5" to cover 2 holes totaling ~3.5".





    Raybo recommended altering the Gemlux 845 to fit on THT, and if I cannot find another solution I will go that route. Any ideas?

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  • ChuckB
    replied
    Well she still isn't finished, but I got to safe splash point and actually ran this weekend. Bilge pump works, new tabs work, and the thru hulls have ball valves that are closed but not actually plumed. The motor ran great, and the boat performed well. It felt good to be behind the helm again, and we even caught a couple fish Sunday.







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  • ChuckB
    replied
    She still hasn't splashed and still has work to be done, but progress is being made.









    I still have to plumb most of the bilge and wire up bilge pumps and trim tabs.

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