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"Jersey Devil"__25 Rebuild

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  • "Jersey Devil"__25 Rebuild

    As promised Heres a rebuild thread.

    This will be a slow one. Here in the northeast once temps drop below 55 all glass work stops till spring. I do have a heated garage and try to get the smaller stuff done.

    The master plan was new tanks , transom , complete rewire. new plumbing ,paint and after much debate with myself a single new 30" 300 Suzuki at the end. I have no budget( also don't want to know how much I'm spending) and no time line. I just want a solid boat I can trust.

    I have a carpentry and pipefitting background and have done some fiberglass pipe work but this is a first attempt at this type of project.

    First issue was 40 gallons of fuel left in main tank. Had to drain it to 5g buckets thats still sitting in the yard.

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        • #5
          Sorry Guys

          The pictures are not doing what I want them to. Im new to Imgur but will get it figured out


          • #6
            Heres some pics of the transom demo.

            Tramsom was still basically solid but was wet. Water had been leaking around the tab screws and thru hulls. I could not believe how heavy the plywood was from the water.

            The inner and outer skins were still bonded to the plywood but between the two sheets of ply there was nothing holding them together except a few staples.


            • #7
              Stringers were incredibly dry except at the very ends where the meet the transom.

              Im using marine plywood for the transom. Every hole will be over drilled and filled and completely sealed. As long as I own the boat it will never get wet again. Im not against composite and will be using them in other places but for the transom its wood on this one.

              Next time Ill give the poured transom a go, it looks like a great option


              • #8
                I made a template with 1/4 laun I glued two sheets of 3/4 together before I installed it in the boat. Im using west epoxy for the entire build. Along with 1708,1700.1808 I also subscribe to putting down the largest pc of glass and stepping back each additional pc


                • #9
                  I saturated the plywood, put a layer of 1708 mat side against outer skin and thickened epoxy troweled on and stuck em together.


                  • #10
                    5 layers of alternating 1700 and 1808


                    • #11
                      Nice clean work!

                      Did you raise the transom at all?
                      [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br][br]1976 Mako 25[br],25[br]


                      • #12
                        Thank you

                        Yes it is 5" taller than it was. Should of made it 6"


                        • #13

                          I really like the 1 1/4" straight scupper idea that you posted in your "Discussion" thread. I don't recall seeing anyone else do that and I am interested in seeing that posted when you get to it.

                          You are doing nice work, keep up the good work.

                          BTW, I ran a per of 150 two strokes for years. I was happy with the perforance and balance. I'm sure you will be pleased.
                          Ole Joe
                          Just floundering around
                          White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
                          1978 Mako 25


                          • #14
                            The scupper idea came from someones project on this site. I don't remember where. I can't take credit

                            Im paranoid about how the boat will sit and water coming in. I thought about check valves, side exit, even crossing the lines from one side to the other

                            Sure this has been discussed a lot here. Ill did little deeper


                            • #15
                              Heres a pic of the raised transom from the outside and how I did the limber holes in the stringers. I over drilled and epoxied 1.5" pc of pvc in