Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1986 mako 235 BIRDIE

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1986 mako 235 BIRDIE

    Even though Im still in the fence about selling her for a 25 I figured I should start a thread to document all the work I do in one place. Birdie is a new to me 1986 mako 235 with a 200hp Blackmax strapped to the back. Honestly the more used boats I look at the more I want to keep her because of how well kept she is.

    So this weekend I was able to start a few small projects. The first was to prototype the new placards which you can see in the YouTube video in the link below. Few small changes but pretty good as is. This is 1/2 pvc sheet and will ultimately be 1/4 for the final product.

    https://youtu.be/ONXesT8OXm8



    The second project I am working on is new speaker covers. The cracked brown old school ones gotta go! Here is the proto so far and I think it may be a keeper but Im open to suggestions.





    I will keep you all updated as I go the other projects that are in progress are all the other console panels, bottom paint is 75% gone and a repaint is in order.

    I guess youve realize by now I have my own CNC shop to aid in the process [][]

    -Jeff

  • #2
    I saw your post on IG and very creative on the speaker grill. I'd like to see it mounted to see what it looks like but certainly the door is open on future ideas.
    1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
    1985 Mako 20c - sold
    Fort Walton Beach, FL
    http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Sailor. There should be some really cool stuff that will come out of this project. Only hard part is finding the extra time to do it!

      Comment


      • #4
        I have been slowly but surely getting things accomplished the bottom paint is gone[xx(]. I tell everyone I know, Im glad I did it, but I will never do it again. Next is a a few coats of 2000e on the hull, then perfection in grey. I mixed a quart of platinum and black and came up with the exact shade I wanted.





        Fuel lines are changed from the tank to the motor. Changed all the under cowling fuel lines, water lines and fuel filter. I moved the batteries up front under the console and made some panels to cover the old battery hatches. New battery cables, circuit beaker and fuse panel is going in this weekend.





        I also got the Simrad G07 setup in a new panel which will also house the trim tab buttons and a temperature gauge.



        I ground out some spider cracks in the transom corners which were concerning me, but they were in what appeared to be filler. Ive seen a few threads which touched on this and I guess it was common to use a good amount in the radiuses. Ground and filled with epoxy/glass/silica filler. New compass and VHF relocation will also happen this weekend. Getting close to summer and need to get er done!

        -Jeff

        Comment


        • #5
          I have been slowly but surely getting things accomplished the bottom paint is gone[xx(]. I tell everyone I know, Im glad I did it, but I will never do it again. Next is a a few coats of 2000e on the hull, then perfection in grey. I mixed a quart of platinum and black and came up with the exact shade I wanted.





          Fuel lines are changed from the tank to the motor. Changed all the under cowling fuel lines, water lines and fuel filter. I moved the batteries up front under the console and made some panels to cover the old battery hatches. New battery cables, circuit beaker and fuse panel is going in this weekend.





          I also got the Simrad G07 setup in a new panel which will also house the trim tab buttons and a temperature gauge.



          I ground out some spider cracks in the transom corners which were concerning me, but they were in what appeared to be filler. Ive seen a few threads which touched on this and I guess it was common to use a good amount in the radiuses. Ground and filled with epoxy/glass/silica filler. New compass and VHF relocation will also happen this weekend. Getting close to summer and need to get er done!

          -Jeff

          Comment


          • #6
            I would relocate the fuel separator behind that panel you just intstalled. It will last longer then out there in the salt water and sun.
            1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
            1985 Mako 20c - sold
            Fort Walton Beach, FL
            http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

            Comment


            • #7
              I would relocate the fuel separator behind that panel you just intstalled. It will last longer then out there in the salt water and sun.
              1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
              1985 Mako 20c - sold
              Fort Walton Beach, FL
              http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

              Comment


              • #8
                On that BlackMax you have:

                Consider removing the oil injection pump off the motor and premix. These engines were nearly bullet proof. The one exception was a very week nylon composite gearing on the oil injection pump(not sure what mercury was thinking...). If it fails you loose one or more cylinders and it happened on alot of these engines as they aged. You may also want to look at the spark retarder electronic box. They are another weak link that the engine will function OK without. Check out the guys at screamandfly as they hotrod these engines and have alot of info on them. These engines were the accumulation of nearly 60 years of 2 stroke design experience before EPA regulations started the downward spiral of the 2 stroke. The damn bores in these engines were actually chromed to increase longevity. That's why you see the hotrodders picking up 200HP (the 2.4 and 2.5L blocks) 2 stroke black max's and tuning them up to 350+

                Liked your cnc work.

                Comment


                • #9
                  On that BlackMax you have:

                  Consider removing the oil injection pump off the motor and premix. These engines were nearly bullet proof. The one exception was a very week nylon composite gearing on the oil injection pump(not sure what mercury was thinking...). If it fails you loose one or more cylinders and it happened on alot of these engines as they aged. You may also want to look at the spark retarder electronic box. They are another weak link that the engine will function OK without. Check out the guys at screamandfly as they hotrod these engines and have alot of info on them. These engines were the accumulation of nearly 60 years of 2 stroke design experience before EPA regulations started the downward spiral of the 2 stroke. The damn bores in these engines were actually chromed to increase longevity. That's why you see the hotrodders picking up 200HP (the 2.4 and 2.5L blocks) 2 stroke black max's and tuning them up to 350+

                  Liked your cnc work.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks guys. Sailor I had that in mind when I was doing the work. I used the separator with the clear bottom so I can check periodically for water accumulation. I figured mounted on the outer panel I would be more likely to check it throughout a day of fishing, but on the flip side like you said the elements will wear on it.

                    Headcase - Thanks for the input, I have been doing tons of research over there and on bbcboards.net. Seems like the chrome bores were very reliable. I am thinking about premixing, and don't really see a reason not to other than the carbon build up and extra smoke. But hell it sounds like a coffee grinder and smokes as it is so what's the difference lol. I may do the continuous loop mod to the oil pump to leave it intact. Its very light and has lots of power so I am happy, has better compression than my last motor and it was 10 years younger!

                    Ill post up some more pics as I go.

                    -Jeff

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The placard looks great! What do you normally make in your CNC shop?
                      Nathan Floyd[br]1992 Mako 191[br]2006 Suzuki DF150

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The placard looks great! What do you normally make in your CNC shop?
                        Nathan Floyd[br]1992 Mako 191[br]2006 Suzuki DF150

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks I did a million different versions and finally came up with one I like. We do home decor and a bunch of other odds and ends with it. It definitely comes in handy lol.

                          Today I got the new wiring hooked up at the engine and pulled up under the console. I am designing some battery trays to cut and mounting another piece of PVC sheet to the inside port side of the console to mount the wiring. The setup is currently run on toggle switches with twist in glass fuses. Getting rid of the glass and using my fuse panel but may stick with the toggles for now. I need to price out some switches if not.

                          -Jeff

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Rub rail removed and hull sanded ready for first coat of primer. Then fairing[B)]


                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Rub rail removed and hull sanded ready for first coat of primer. Then fairing[B)]


                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X