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Replacing tank question 231 cc

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  • Replacing tank question 231 cc

    I am replacing the tank because the old one leaked. I cut out big access sections of the tank coffin and carved out almost all of the old foam floatation because it was saturated with water and gas. That's done, the access holes are glassed back in place and the coffin repainted.

    I've seen a bunch of guys say they installed new fuel tanks without foaming them in, which is what I am going to do. My question is, should I put drains at the rear of the coffin for any condensation that forms around the tank? My worry is the bottom of the coffin is below the water line and if a lot of water gets in the bilge it might back up into the coffin. Any experience or thoughts on this?
    [br]Mako To Go, Brick, NJ [br]1989 Mako 231 CC[br]250 Optimax[br]

  • #2
    Glass in a bulkhead made out off coosa behind the tank. However it sound like you already have things buttoned up so that make it hard. Anyway you can work from the bilge side!

    If you dont put foam back in whats supporting your tank?
    1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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    • #3
      quote:


      Originally posted by C-Fish


      I am replacing the tank because the old one leaked. I cut out big access sections of the tank coffin and carved out almost all of the old foam floatation because it was saturated with water and gas. That's done, the access holes are glassed back in place and the coffin repainted.


      I've seen a bunch of guys say they installed new fuel tanks without foaming them in, which is what I am going to do. My question is, should I put drains at the rear of the coffin for any condensation that forms around the tank? My worry is the bottom of the coffin is below the water line and if a lot of water gets in the bilge it might back up into the coffin. Any experience or thoughts on this?


      Run PVC tubs from back of coffin (glass them in) to the back of the bilge...cap the ends of those tubes (I used rubber stoppers) to prevent backflow and pull them periodically to check for water.
      ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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      • #4
        Bando - Sorry, I left out that we refoamed the hull before glassing up the cutouts in the coffin so the coffin is fully supported and so is the deck around the coffin.

        Justin - That sounds like the best idea yet, but between myself and the guy who is doing the bulk of the work he came up with a different solution. He ran a length of the heavy white bilge pump exhaust line to each side of the lowest part of the coffin, then ended them just under the pop out hatch over the fuel pickup and fuel sensor. If I think there is any water I can attach a portable bilge pump to the lines and draw it out.

        I had the tank painted with a two part epoxy paint to seal it so no more corrosion problems. This was actually the second tank in the boat. The first on busted a baffle and started leaking at one of the weld joints about 10 years after the boat went into service.
        [br]Mako To Go, Brick, NJ [br]1989 Mako 231 CC[br]250 Optimax[br]

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        • #5
          I did my 231 tank last year, shortened it to 100 gallons and made a new bulkhead wall and a step-down head, I gave the raw aluminum a light sanding, cleaned it with solvent and gave I four coats of truck bed liner and foamed it in place. I also had it built .190 3/16s thick. I think this is the most bulletproof method.

          Like you I Glassed all the hockey puck size foam fill holes only one vent to bilge up high in rear or coffin.

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