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1972 Mako 17 Rehab

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  • 1972 Mako 17 Rehab

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  • #2
    Congrats on the new boat. Looks to be in good shape. There is an endless amount of information here and on the web to help you through anything you want to do to her.

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    • #3
      Yes youre correct you want to grind the stress cracks down to bare glass build back up deeper cracks that need a little piece of glass or he may be able to get away with some Apoxsee resin cabosil for your holes. you can mix in some fiberglass dust/shavings for strength. My suggestion would be to used her for a year or two make a list of what you wanna do this way you knew for sure if you wanna invest your time and money
      1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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      • #4
        For your deck repair

        http://www.injectadeck.com
        1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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        • #5
          Ive never used it but have seen videos. Casting deck should be the same as your floors.
          1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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          • #6
            The casting deck is balsa cored, you could inject it for a temporary fix but youll likely find more spots over time. You want to inject between the glass and the core. Some have reported good results using gorilla glue as it sucks up and is activated by water. Now is the time where you have decide how far you want to go with it. Ive seen a lot of hulls stripped down for sale that started as small repairs and snowballed out of control. It looks like you have a boat that could be used with little work. I bought my hull that was no where as nice knowing that I was going to gut it and spend a year rebuilding it. Its been a year and a half now and Im fine with that since I enjoy the project as much as running a boat. All the information you need to learn to do the work is on the web so its just how much time and money do you want to spend.

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            • #7
              Not sure what console drain you are talking about? Brass drain tubes deteriorate over time. You can epoxy in a piece of pvc pipe. Just rough it up with some sandpaper first to give it some tooth.

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              • #8
                Gotcha. Thats storage that can be used as a cooler or plumbed for a livewell. You can use a brass or plastic drain tube.

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                • #9
                  You said console area, Is the hole youre referring to on the bottom of the boat?
                  1988 Mako 17 Angler 2019 Suzuki DF140[br]1972 Mako 17 Standard 115 Yamaha-Sold[br]

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                  • #10
                    Sounds like the hole youre referring to is in the deck or fuel tank coffin lid. If so its not a must do. Once you start pulling the the console and lid it will become more of a project as you will find wet foam that youll want to remove which will lead to a new deck and then more and more. I wouldnt gel the inside of the boat until you have gone through it. If you want to use it come spring time get the motor running and the wiring and plumbing in order and save the other stuff for next year or after.

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                    • #11
                      Sorry about that huge freaking pic I posted, it was my first time using imgur.
                      1988 Mako 17 Angler 2019 Suzuki DF140[br]1972 Mako 17 Standard 115 Yamaha-Sold[br]

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                      • #12
                        Sorry to hear the hole is on the bottom of the boat. Not to strike fear in you, but very often people will put heavy coats of bottom paint on to cover up issues. If the boat wasnt stored in the water and/or the bottom paint was recently applied, I would be very skeptical.

                        Hopefully its just the one problem area though.

                        As far as the bait wells, I love them, but I pretty much always use live bait. They are very handy. I suppose they do act as a trim tab of sorts, but as you can see I have trim tabs as well and highly recommend them.

                        I dont think they take away from the lines of the boat. I think in your case,and as I believe you stated, its that black bottom paint thats doing that.

                        Youre boat looks good otherwise and Im actually going to be painting mine Fighting Lady Yellow after the first of the year.

                        I wish you luck and will be following your progress.
                        1988 Mako 17 Angler 2019 Suzuki DF140[br]1972 Mako 17 Standard 115 Yamaha-Sold[br]

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                        • #13
                          You can use a sander but depending on the type of bottom paint is on there you may go through a lot of disks. They gum up quick.

                          My advice, and the way I did the bottom of my 23. Get a few large plastic drop cloths and put them under the boat. Blast off as much of the paint as possible with the powerwasher.

                          Get yourself some paint stripper I used BioBlast(I used less then a gal for the entire bottom) mfg'ed by Pettit, brush it on let it sit until the paint starts to bubble up and hit it with the powerwasher or you could use a scraper. Just keep repeating and at some point you'll be able to just wipe the bottom with acetone to remove the remaining stains.

                          Regarding the puncture on the bottom, in order to properly fix it you will have to grind out all damaged glass. So chances are you will have a much larger hole they your currently seeing and maybe you'll see what caused it.
                          Long Island, New York

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                          • #14
                            You can up the MEK to get poly or vinylester to kick in colder weather. Epoxy will not harden until it gets warmer. If you plan on re gelcoating youll want to use poly or vinylester as gelcoat wont stick to epoxy. Epoxy will stick and stick good to gelcoat and polyester just not the other way around. Epoxy will be your strongest repair followed by vinylester and then polyester. West Systems is a quality product but very expensive and not necessary. Ive used Raka and Ebond 1285 from Merritt on my build both work well. I have a wholesale account with Merritt so Ive used it primarily. I dont believe Raka carries poly. The paint will be removed anywhere you put the stripper so yes you can strip the inside also but its messy and may not be necessary. I would focus on one issue at a time if your goal is to use the boat in the spring. The hole in the hull is P1.

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                            • #15
                              I highly recommend using vinylester. Epoxy is great, but has some drawbacks like mentioned above.

                              Check out US Composites website. Good prices and fast shipping.
                              1988 Mako 17 Angler 2019 Suzuki DF140[br]1972 Mako 17 Standard 115 Yamaha-Sold[br]

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