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  • Top cap to Hull Rivets

    Can someone tell me what would be the best rivets to use between Aluminum or stainless steel and the size. Thanks.

  • #2
    I used stainless and want to say they were 1/8. The 5200 I hooped all the way around is doing all the work, however. If youre going with stainless, Id recommend getting something other than a hand rivet tool. I bought the cheaper of the harbor freight pneumatic and ended up going back to get their heavy duty version.
    Dave [br]Woodbury Heights, NJ[br]\'73 Mako 20[br]\'85 Mako 254[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=55336[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52586

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    • #3
      I use these.....



      I picked them up at Lowes or HD....figured the factory aluminum rivets lasted long enough....don't forget the stainless steel screws from the rub rail help hold the cap to hull connection as well.

      You can also check McMaster Carr....they have both aluminum and stainless in numerous sizes.

      https://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-rivets/=1dt8niu

      Eric
      A wise man once said, "Son... if it has tits, tires or a transom... sooner or later it's gonna give you problems." -the old man

      1972 Classic Mako 19
      https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...t-squot-ole-19

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      • #4
        You will definitely want to use a pneumatic riveter. It will be almost an impossible task to do without. I used 3/16 on my hull/cap connection. I filled the old holes and made new ones for the rivets. I taped all the way around the hull under the connection squirted 5200 in using a screw driver to pull the joint apart and squirted the 5200 in. Then riveted all around, you may need to apply some downward force on the cap to get everything squared up properly. I have a few pics on page2 of my thread

        http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...41&whichpage=2
        Tequesta,Fl[br]Work in progress \'77 25[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53441&whichpage=1[br]

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