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Long Term Rebuild - Mako '79 19ft

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  • Long Term Rebuild - Mako '79 19ft

    1979 Mako 19ft Project Boat

    Migrating my introductory thread to here as I will update it throughout my journey with water shots and repairs on my first boat. PLEASE provide tips and any related threads for my to-do lists, I am a newbie when it comes to boat repairs so I will need all of the help I can get.

    Images of boat are below:





    Last edited by Nogis; 05-13-2019, 10:21 AM.
    1979 19' Mako

  • #2
    Took a more detailed look at the boats condition; tank in particular. The gauge on the center console does not work, but I noticed there's a gauge inside the center console that I would assume leads directly to the tank. That appears to be in working condition as it has a reading of just under half a tank, which sounds about right.

    Would anyone have a diagram or be able to explain how I could link up the gauge on the console to the sender/the gauge below the center console? Its not a pressing issue since I can just look below to check levels, but it's a nice-to-have.

    Also, I checked the inspection port and the lines appear to be in okay condition.

    Picked up a new gps/fish finder and will have to install the new system tomorrow. New transducer going in, it would be smart to use 5200 on the screws (bead inside hole and on threads), correct? Or would that make it hell to remove (not sure why I'd remove it ever, dropped a pretty penny on a nice combo).
    Last edited by Nogis; 05-13-2019, 10:22 AM.
    1979 19' Mako

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    • #3
      <duplicated post>
      Last edited by Nogis; 05-13-2019, 10:22 AM.
      1979 19' Mako

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      • #4
        Fuel gauge is usually a pink wire going to the gauge with ground and positive. Should wire up the same.

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        • #5
          quote:


          Nogis Posted - 07/20/2018 : 10:26:47

          1979 Mako 19ft Project Boat


          My to-do list is as follows:

          Enjoy the boat for remainder of season with aesthetic work here and thereid="green">

          Off-Season work; get tank done

          Install trim tabs

          Paint boat deck

          Gel-coat exterior

          Install cushions for additional seating and a livewell for all of the snagged bunker

          My primary focus right now is the tank replacement as I'm not sure if it has ever been looked at. Please see comments below as I request input from the experienced members of CM:

          I don't smell gas when operating the boat or in standstillid="green">



          Nogis...

          If there are no obvious signs of a fuel leak, I would use the boat for the remainder of the season.

          If you are concerned about rack or docking fees, why not avoid them altogether.... just use the trailer and the local boat ramp.

          Save the "to-do list" for the offseason []

          Eric
          A wise man once said, "Son... if it has tits, tires or a transom... sooner or later it's gonna give you problems." -the old man

          1972 Classic Mako 19
          https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...t-squot-ole-19

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          • #6
            Thanks for the input, Eric. Boat is going in this weekend, horrible week of weather ahead, hoping for it to hold off on Saturday for the maiden voyage.

            Was able to put some work into the boat today, sorry for the lack of pictures, phone has been acting up and can't hold a charge. Installed a Garmin chartplotter/fishfinder combo, CHIRP 54cv (so nicee ) and mounted the new transducer. Removed some unnecessary wires and cleaned up under the center console.

            Anyone ever install clam vents, or something alike, to the side of center consoles for ventilation? It rained a fair amount recently and I had some pooling of water (nothing dramatic) in the center console, mostly due to the poor water/weatherproofing and myriad of screw holes that are yet to be filled. I was thinking a small clam vent pointing to the bow would be great for pulling fresh air through when cruising out on the water, but also could be inviting any spray into the electronics.

            Best method for filling small screw holes and spider cracks on gunnels? Looking at some Marine-Tex putty to fill in small stuff, thoughts?
            1979 19' Mako

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            • #7
              quote:


              Nogis Posted - 07/22/2018 : 20:06:52

              Anyone ever install clam vents, or something alike, to the side of center consoles for ventilation? It rained a fair amount recently and I had some pooling of water (nothing dramatic) in the center console, mostly due to the poor water/weatherproofing and myriad of screw holes that are yet to be filled. I was thinking a small clam vent pointing to the bow would be great for pulling fresh air through when cruising out on the water, but also could be inviting any spray into the electronics.



              I can not tell from the images...does the center console hatch door have vent cut outs?
              I would seal up and weather proof all areas where water maybe getting in and put venting cut outs in the hatch door.
              quote:


              Nogis Posted - 07/22/2018 : 20:06:52

              Best method for filling small screw holes and spider cracks on gunnels? Looking at some Marine-Tex putty to fill in small stuff, thoughts?



              Marine-Tex will work for a short term fix....here is a link to several projects repairing stress and spider cracks for the long term.
              https://www.google.com/search?lr=&as...iz.3wA1iwDD8bk

              Eric
              A wise man once said, "Son... if it has tits, tires or a transom... sooner or later it's gonna give you problems." -the old man

              1972 Classic Mako 19
              https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...t-squot-ole-19

              Comment


              • #8
                I think Eric got it right with Marine Tex being an ok temporary fix, but going back the correct way later. Also, that if there is no obvious sign that he tank is leaking use the boat for the rest of the season. We're already about half way through depending on how long you continue to fish through the fall.

                As far as a livewell for bunker, I've found a removable/temporary one to be better suited in Long Island sound. A livewell for bunker at 1 to 1.5 gallons per fish tends to be too big to have permanently on a 19 (in my opinion). Additionally, it gets in the way in late fall when you're after albies and not using bunker.

                It looks like your transom may have been done at some point, it doesn't have the standard low cut, which I think it may have had on the '79 model.

                Unfortunately, I'm busy over the next few weeks, otherwise I'd offer to give it a once over with you as I'm in Ansonia so not too too far away.

                If you get some more detailed pictures of the fuel tank I'm sure myself or someone else here would be happy to give their input....whether it looks original, whether someone was in their before, etc
                1973 Mako 19[br]

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                • #9
                  If you transom mount the transducer just use a good calking on the screw holes. If it were to break or malfunction getting the screws out will be easier with calking. Use the boat and do the fix up in the off season.

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                  • #10
                    Had a fantastic first season on The Lime Tree (she's been named, unofficially), and are prepping for the upcoming season.

                    My father and I will likely trailer it from storage next weekend and are planning on doing some cosmetic work on the boat to get another season or two out of it before either selling it or tackling the big stuff (transom rebuild, tank replacement, console/wiring redo, etc).

                    We don't have much experience working with fiberglass but we plan on sealing the gunnel screw holes and going to town on spider cracks that riddle the corners of the boat with fairing and gel coat. Any suggestions on good/easy-to-use products would be appreciated. I'm looking at the West Systems 407 Filler, 105 Resin and 205 Hardener in combination with some fiberglass mat to fill the small holes in gunnels and CC. I realize this is probably the best way to do these repairs, but have people had better luck with something like TotalBoat total fairing epoxy compound or even cabosil mixed with gelcoat for the smaller stuff? I'm trying to minimize costs but not have cracks and whatnot appear again by the end of the season.

                    Additionally we want to repaint the deck (hopefully a nice seafoam green) as the existing paint is flaking and doesn't look too great. Considering adding nonskid to Interlux Brightside, I heard SoftSand is fantastic... is it ridiculous to do the whole deck in this or should I do a coat then tape off sections for nonskid?
                    1979 19' Mako

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                    • #11
                      Got a '79 19' cc bought it last year. Wish I had a T top but on river with LOW bridges. Cant beat a Mako hull !! Its a labor of love and the newer ones don't compare !! Well worth the it !! Bring her back to life!!

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                      • #12
                        We're getting prepped for putting her under the scalpel, purchasing grinders, resin, glass, all the good stuff. Since the boat is still in storage, I'm looking at old images I have and started thinking about these small cracks along the transom. I'm not going to do the transom this year, maybe next if it starts to flex, but does anyone have any insight on whether or not we should grind out those cracks where it meets the deck and glass over it with epoxy and loose strand? I don't want to open it up and have issues but I wonder if doing this could prolong it's life for a couple more seasons. I'm also looking into the cracks along the corners in the back left.





                        For the crack and screw hole filling we plan to use the following from TotalBoat:

                        - epoxy resin with Fast Hardener (working in the still-frigid Northeast so we need the help)

                        - fiberglass mat 1.5oz loose strand

                        - totalboat totalfair epoxy fairing compound OR microballoons to mix with the epoxy resin (whichever is cheaper... totalfair would probably be easier for the small stuff)

                        - dewaxer/surface prep

                        - white gelcoat

                        - PVA

                        - wax additive

                        - poly peel for epoxy cure (working outdoors)

                        SUGGESTIONS WELCOMED!

                        What if we used this totalboat deep penetrating epoxy for the transom-deck cracks? If the core is damp (decent chance it is), would this just be a waste of time since there would be no mechanical bond?

                        http://www.totalboat.com/product/penetrating-epoxy/
                        quote:


                        Originally posted by 89wheelinyj


                        If you get some more detailed pictures of the fuel tank I'm sure myself or someone else here would be happy to give their input....whether it looks original, whether someone was in their before, etc



                        Without opening her up, here are some old pics of the inspection port I took last year, sure isn't pretty but it looks like someone went over the lines and covered up a possible leak. I have no gas smells or junk in the bilge to alert me. Don't tell me I need to open her up this year because that sure isn't happening

                        1979 19' Mako

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                        • #13
                          following along, Im from Stamford CT, redid a 1981 213 last year. Looking to maybe build a 19 or 20 to keep in florida. I want to build a bay boat. Let me know if you run into any issues, I'd be happy to help.
                          Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

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                          • #14
                            Started working on the rig the other weekend. Picked up the new leaning post cushion as the prior was beyond repair as the core rotted and it was littered in mildew stains, as well as the new windshield. I used Jerry's Upholstery in Norwalk, CT on Connecticut Ave for the cushion (which came out nicely at a 'reasonable' price) and Select Plastics in Norwalk as well.


                            [windshield picture to come]

                            Pulled the old worn out rub rail off, almost every screw was bent which was a little odd. Sanded a bit on the topsides to see what any cracks looked like, nothing too serious and certainly can be reinforced with glass.


                            Pulled off the kicker mount from the transom and checked the core, didn't look alarming as the bolts and caulk were dry. There are some soft spots near the reinforced area, planning on injecting some TotalBoat Thixo or some caulking to seal it properly on the sides, but in all it's pretty solid.



                            Rod holders were not sealed properly and collected a fair amount of water underneath, still thinking about how I want to tackle this. I want to get the boat in the water asap as I've already paid for rack storage at the marina... leaning more towards drying out the holes and roughing up the edges to coat in thickened resin. Open to advice on this matter. It'd probably be best to take out the damp core and glass over it all then drill new holes for the holders, that would be a next-year project.



                            Pulled out the speakers and busted lights from the center console. The speakers' screws were rusted out and stripped immediately (WHY WOULD YOU NOT USE STAINLESS..), so we used the dremel's metal grinding bit and cut around the screws to pop out the speakers. Going to glass over these holes and bore out all the cracks and fill screw holes with marine-tex. Looking for some led speakers and a bluetooth stereo that I can install in the t-top for a dual-purpose setup (lighting and sound). The existing stereo has power and works but the speakers are trashed and aren't hooked up, so I'll just replace the whole system. That may wait until later in the summer when I do some electrical upgrades (DVSR, 12 slot fuse block, new switch panel, etc.).


                            Going to clean the engine up this week and found a replacement diaphragm assembly on eBay for $30, for some reason mine's rusted to s***. Odd because nothing else on the engine looks even remotely like this, makes me wonder...


                            Will post updates on progress after this weekend. Please comment tips and advice for what you see. I'm trying to get this thing in the water ASAP so if it's a lengthy or expensive task, it will have to wait.
                            1979 19' Mako

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                            • #15
                              Made okay progress this weekend. Fired up the engine, first crank and she purred. I could not for the life of me get those screws to come out for the diaphragm assembly replacement... tried heating the area with a torch, drilling it, acetone/transfluid mix, I'll have to look into an EZ-Out sort of bit but the engine runs fine so there's no rush there.

                              It was our first time using fiberglass and I think it was successful, we'll see how it cures but it seemed solid when I checked it this morning before heading off to Manhattan. We used TotalBoat's epoxy and resin with the pump system, couldn't have been easier.

                              We wrapped cardboard in plastic sheeting then taped to back of holes for a base, then wet a cut piece of fiberglass and applied, added two more layers for each port. This upcoming weekend we will apply a few more layers then fair with thickened resin (silica) and sand for paint. All other holes will be filled with e-tex or a resin-silica mix for the bigger ones that don't quite need glass.

                              Also, I went around and filled all of the smaller holes, that I believe were used for a cover on the bow, with e-tex. I tried my best to keep the putty proud on the fill so we can sand it flush. Stuff can be hard to push into a hole but I found swirling it with the corner of a spreader worked well for me.

                              e-tex application on bow rail screw holes and holes from cover


                              first ever fiberglass application pictures (let me know if you notice anything we did incorrectly, we plan to use poly peel ply in the future, but will wash off amine blush this weekend after cure)





                              The holes were from several lights and speakers that were busted. On top of the console was a large compass, it interfered with the old windshield and I plan to replace it with a much smaller compass with led illumination. Picked up a Ritchie off Amazon, less than 4 or 5 inches in diameter, should be perfect on the console. Additional add-ons will be two new speakers and stereo system in the console on the t-top then some led cup holders on the console next to the compass. (zero cup holders right now, which is no bueno)
                              1979 19' Mako

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