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'81 Mako 213 new tank and wiring (updated pics)

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  • '81 Mako 213 new tank and wiring (updated pics)

    Hey been using this site a lot recently since I just got my first mako and decided to start a project thread. This is my first boat and Im just learning as I go, should know my boat inside and out by the end. Just excited to get started.

    Here are some pics

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    Dont worry I made chucks for the trailer

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    Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

  • #2
    My to do list looks like this:

    1. Fuel tank replacement

    2. Fuel line replacement

    3. New electronics/rewire (steering, ignition and trim work fine)

    4. Redesign center console

    5. Bottom Paint

    6. Deck Paint

    7. Refinish the teak

    8. Catch fish

    I started the project around a week ago so I have made a lot of progress towards this list (removing the tank, fuel lines and old electronics). I am now working on buying all the new stuff to replace the junk I took out. The last guy to own this thing was not the brightest and didnt do the boat justice, painting the deck with multiple layers of Behr exterior probably wasnt the best idea. He did do a few things right though, t-top and leaning post are a good start. Also he never used the thing and put only 250 hours on the 2004 Yamaha 150. A week in and I am very optimistic about how this project is gonna turn out.

    Pics of what I have done so far

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    Fuel tank finally out, what a b****

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    Took a lot of foam digging and a hole in the deck but finally got the fuel lines out too.

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    These are sections the original corroded fuel lines. The two 45 degree bends made them especially difficult to get out.

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    Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

    Comment


    • #3
      Gonna need to replace all the foam I dug out, anyone know what lb density Urethane foam I should use in the hull?
      Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

      Comment


      • #4
        4 lb around the tank and 2lb would be sufficient for everything else.
        Long Island, New York

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:


          Originally posted by 81Mako235


          4 lb around the tank and 2lb would be sufficient for everything else.



          Thanks I just order some.
          Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

          Comment


          • #6
            Ive been pretty busy the past couple days but still working away on the mako. Got the new fuel lines threaded and ordered the new tank on a couple days ago. Its gonna be a few more days before the tank is ready so in the meantime Ive been tackling other tasks. Used paint strip on all the left over paint on the deck and hatches and sanded it smooth. Also used epoxy to fill a few gouges I made in the coffin box when removing foam. Next step is wiring, hopefully I can get it done before the tank if ready.

            Before and after strip/sanding.

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            I do like the look of the natural mako deck color but will probably be paint over it with white non-skid.

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            Wiring diagrams i found online that I plan to use.

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            If anyone has any suggestions for wiring/fuel tank install/anything please dont hesitate to let me know.
            Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

            Comment


            • #7
              Consider adding a house battery for battery management and an ACR looking at "add a battery suggested wiring. Suggest looking at Marinco BEP battery cluster for power management. Where will the batteries be located? If under the console you'll need power posts mounted in the stern and properly sized extension cables. Consider adding a second bilge pump for back-up. Suggest changing bilge pump wire gauge to minimum #12AWG for voltage drop. Move busbar to sub panel under console. Consider adding a wire from switch one to power your gauge lights. Add grounding conductor for gas tank minimum gauge #12 AWG. Could fabricate a wire harness for the switch panel to facilitate wiring, Working upside down on your back in the console is not fun. Suggest finishing the inside on console with white finish. Suggest using duplex wire rather than single conductor. Add wire numbers to both ends of conductors for trouble shooting. Have suggested sub panel layouts that I could email to you. Let me know at DMK one one six at comcast dot net.
              Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

              Comment


              • #8
                quote:


                Originally posted by keyman


                Consider adding a house battery for battery management and an ACR looking at "add a battery suggested wiring. Suggest looking at Marinco BEP battery cluster for power management. Where will the batteries be located? If under the console you'll need power posts mounted in the stern and properly sized extension cables. Consider adding a second bilge pump for back-up. Suggest changing bilge pump wire gauge to minimum #12AWG for voltage drop. Move busbar to sub panel under console. Consider adding a wire from switch one to power your gauge lights. Add grounding conductor for gas tank minimum gauge #12 AWG. Could fabricate a wire harness for the switch panel to facilitate wiring, Working upside down on your back in the console is not fun. Suggest finishing the inside on console with white finish. Suggest using duplex wire rather than single conductor. Add wire numbers to both ends of conductors for trouble shooting. Have suggested sub panel layouts that I could email to you. Let me know at DMK one one six at comcast dot net.



                Hey thanks for the advice. I have completed a hand drawn wiring diagram with your guidance in mind. I also used the above diagrams as reference and have come up with what I believe to be a good scheme.

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                Notes:

                - My switch panel has 8 switches which are wired in pairs with an attached fuse (I

                already bought it and this is how it was pre-wired)

                - I have a Blue system 12-terminal fuse block with negative bus that i plan to use as

                well as a blue system main fuse with interchangeable 50A fuses

                - Yes switch 6 is empty (If I dont end up using it those wires would obviously not

                exist). I will probably swap the devices on 7 and 8 with 5 and 6

                because I want a much lower fuse on the circuit with my gps/fishfinder and

                speakers.

                - Upon rereading your note I have decided to wire my dials along with my nav lights

                on switch 1, this is NOT shown on the diagram but something I will do. By

                changing this my diagram is not entirely accurate to my plan but only in that the

                compass and trim tab wiring may change. I didnt feel like drawing a new one.

                - The gauge wire I plan to use is not shown but I am mostly using 12AWG wire

                except for obvious spots (battery terminals, fuse block terminals, etc.)

                The batteries will be under the console as well as the switchboard, fuse block, main fuse, and any other negative/positive bus bars. All feedback is helpful, thank you in advance.
                Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

                Comment


                • #9
                  The project is done by the way, havent posted pictures, will do a photo dump in the next day or two...
                  Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Congrats on getting her done!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Your diagram is diagrammatic rather than in ladder diagram format. Whatever is clear to your liking. Are you going to add wire numbers to the conductor? Numbering each conductor at each end will help in trouble shooting later. Also adding fuse size to each fuse will help when replacing them. DC power cables are typically red (+) and black (-) while DC control could be blue or if you follow marine wiring code differs with each device. Refer to Ancor color code chart for reference. Installing cable clamps helps secure wire harness and use of tywraps help bundle wire groups. Per ABYC power cables over 3ft. Should have fusing sized accordingly. Consider changing fuse to Blueseas series 285 circuit breaker between battery switch and fuse block. The ignition switch is part of the motor wire harness and should not be connected to the fuseblock. The landward kill switch and pinnacle neutral safety switch should be wired in series as part of the safety start circuit. Are you going to add an ACR relay for charging both batteries? I prefer the Marinco BEP cluster because of the ergonomic design. Add numbering to fuseblock terminals which includes fuse. Not sure why you showed additional fuses in diagram. Add #10AWG green ground wire from busbar to gas tank bonding tab and jumper bonding green wireto fill tube. Not sure why speakers need DC power or is that a power Amp? The bilge and livewell pumps should have separate fuses and control. Hope this helps.
                      Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm interested to see the pictures on this one. How does the boat perform with the 150hp?
                        1973 Mako 19[br]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Finally got all the pictures together. Here are the rest of the rebuild pictures.

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                          Recoring the Coffin Lid

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                          Coffin Lid Painted and installed

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                          Console layout before

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                          installing shelf in console

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                          Console layout after

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                          The new fuel tank fresh from the fabricator

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                          The wiring of the console before the rewire

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                          The completed wiring of the fuse block, bus bars, battery and battery switch



                          Wiring of the switch panel and gauges
                          Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

                          Comment


                          • #14
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                            The maiden voyage

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                            T-Top on

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                            Installed a Taco Marine LED light in the back for night fishing, works great

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                            Took it out in September to repaint it

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                            All finished with the paint

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                            Covered and winterized, now we wait for spring.
                            Stamford, CT[br]\'81 Mako 21[br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59462[br]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              From your first pictures on the trailer suggest you upgrade your trailer tir down straps. Suggest going across the rear gunnnels secure to trailer frame. Properly rated straps will definitely help keep the boat secured to traile in severe stopping events. Suggest removing the inline fusing at switch panel with another Blueseas independent circuit fuse panel that way keep all fusing of the same type and better access. Also adding additional tie wraps to the wire bundles would help. Boat looks great. We also have boat home and covered for winter.
                              Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

                              Comment

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