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74 Mako 20 transom replacement......crap!

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  • 74 Mako 20 transom replacement......crap!

    Well, Im way deeper than I ever thought Id be. Ive now ripped out old floor, put in bulkheads and replaced floor. Now found crappy wet wood in transom. Ive got lots of pictures of all this, tried to load from imgur but didnt work. Ive cut outline in transom skin with cutting wheel and skillsaw. Weve got rain coming, so left in place and covered boat. When clear I will remove outer skin and all the wet plywood until I just have inner skin.

    My question is this :

    Im in this, and Im beyond the point of no return. While I am redoing transom, should I be raising the transom from stock to 24 or 25? Do I just make Transome straight across or should I keep the low spot for engine?

    Im undecided between coosa to recore or just go back in with resin cured marine ply. It looks like all holes in transom were never sealed from water intrusion. Scuppers as well as engine thrubolts, and swim platform.

    Ive gone through all past threads, but between no visible pics because of photobucket, and I havent found a clear answer.

    Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions/info!

  • #2
    Raising the transom is ideal, but what size is your engine? Or are you buying a new engine too.

    I would say do the transom with plywood. The original ply lasted you 40 years.
    [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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    • #3
      I'm in a similar spot as you but a couple steps ahead so hopefully this helps. If you read the post in the link of my signature, I had the same dilemma on my '82 20B on raising the transom. I laid out what I saw as pros and cons to each route and had others weigh in enough to get me to at least "try" to make my motor a 25", thus leading to raising the transom. My route will be to create integrated splash guards higher than the motor cutout (probably just under the rub rail). I'll try and keep pictures coming and keep the pace up to help others as well as trying to get out once the winds stop here in S. FL.

      For other pics of transoms, use the custom search found here:

      http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=52507

      I found enough that has lead me to go the pourable Arjay route. It might cost a bit more, but I figure it will be easier to do (no fine carpentry) and should have much less risk associated with penetrations. This thread helped get me down that route:

      http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=47892

      The best working pictures for this method, which also sets the bar high for fiberglass work, that I found is here:

      http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=40429

      Good luck and don't give up on Imgur, that's how I'm getting them up.
      [br]\'82 Mako 20B http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59077

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      • #4
        If you have the floor cut out I would replace from the inside but sounds like too late for that. I would definitely raise the transom and add splashguards on each side. If you search google images something like "mako transom splashwell" lots of archived pics come up, many from classicmako.

        I did mine with arjay ceramic and it will fill every void and be totally waterproof.
        1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
        1985 Mako 20c - sold
        Fort Walton Beach, FL
        http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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        • #5
          I think I have the measurements listed on my build. Up the transom like you are planning. You won't regret it. If you're planning on keeping your boat then do the Coosa or poured transom.

          My 2 cents.
          Andy[br]Wilmington, NC[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39991[br]2012 Hydra Sports 3000VX[br]1997 Mako 263 (SOLD)[br]1976 Mako 20 (SOLD)

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          • #6
            Thanks guys! Just got all of transom cut out and gutted. Fishhead, Im following your route with outboard notch being 18 at bottom, 28 at top. Im not cutting out splashwell like you did, Im just going to replace bilge hatch with an Armstrong water tight hatch and move forward. Id love the added strength and durability of Coosa or the pour stuff, but time, $, and 40+ years that the ply lasted, has me going with 2 sandwiched 3/4 marine ply. The reality is, for our water, I may keep this for 1-3 years after she splashes.

            Shes going to be so much more solid than factory with bulkheads, new transom.

            Im entertaining a casting platform up front like fisheads, but as I got into this because it was a good deal, and am past the point of no return, I may have to get her painted and nonskidded, rig her, and use her. Theres plenty Ive already done that Id do differently under deck while it was open, but thatll have to be down the road or next owners choice.

            Id love to be posting pics to all this, but am working from iPad and iPhone which doesnt seem to gybe with Imgur/Photobucket fix, or my Neanderthal computing skills.

            Ive got my fingers crossed for a more accessible/user friendly site when the guys administrating do rollover to new one. Even through the frustration of not being able to see all the historical photos, or being able to post mine, Im immensely grateful to those that have started, maintained, and are developing this site in their free time (theres no such thing), as well as all those that have chimed in so far with guidance and suggestions with my project. I also salute the backyard artists and craftsman that have done incredible work beyond the scope of most professionals in my area. Theyve done threads that (some even without viewable to me PB pictures) you cant stop reading because they are so thoroughly detailed and well written. Theres been a couple times Ive felt like sawing this boat into pieces and buying a runner, but after coming home and getting on CM, get re-inspired to forge ahead for this little girl to see water again.

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            • #7
              And just to clarify and see that you all agree with this:

              I am going up 25 up from center point of bottom hull/transom. That will be the notch for engine mount and will be centered 18 across. That will flare out to 28 at top where new transom will be straight across from highest existing transom cap.

              Does this make sense to everybody?

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