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74 Mako 20 transom replacement......crap!

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  • 74 Mako 20 transom replacement......crap!

    Well, Im way deeper than I ever thought Id be. Ive now ripped out old floor, put in bulkheads and replaced floor. Now found crappy wet wood in transom. Ive got lots of pictures of all this, tried to load from imgur but didnt work. Ive cut outline in transom skin with cutting wheel and skillsaw. Weve got rain coming, so left in place and covered boat. When clear I will remove outer skin and all the wet plywood until I just have inner skin.

    My question is this :

    Im in this, and Im beyond the point of no return. While I am redoing transom, should I be raising the transom from stock to 24 or 25? Do I just make Transome straight across or should I keep the low spot for engine?

    Im undecided between coosa to recore or just go back in with resin cured marine ply. It looks like all holes in transom were never sealed from water intrusion. Scuppers as well as engine thrubolts, and swim platform.

    Ive gone through all past threads, but between no visible pics because of photobucket, and I havent found a clear answer.

    Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions/info!

  • #2
    quote:


    Originally posted by Yourtruenorth1


    Well, Im way deeper than I ever thought Id be. Ive now ripped out old floor, put in bulkheads and replaced floor. Now found crappy wet wood in transom. Ive got lots of pictures of all this, tried to load from imgur but didnt work. Ive cut outline in transom skin with cutting wheel and skillsaw. Weve got rain coming, so left in place and covered boat. When clear I will remove outer skin and all the wet plywood until I just have inner skin.

    My question is this :


    Im in this, and Im beyond the point of no return. While I am redoing transom, should I be raising the transom from stock to 24 or 25? Do I just make Transome straight across or should I keep the low spot for engine?

    Im undecided between coosa to recore or just go back in with resin cured marine ply. It looks like all holes in transom were never sealed from water intrusion. Scuppers as well as engine thrubolts, and swim platform.

    Ive gone through all past threads, but between no visible pics because of photobucket, and I havent found a clear answer.

    Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions/info!


    Thats a shame. I started a 20 footer some years back and ended up with that same scope creep. Cut the deck, then the transom, next thing I knew I had all the stringers torn out! When I did my transom, I read a lot of comments about trouble with that cutou so I closed in the notch for a 25 shaft. I went with marine ply because the boat was over 40 years old and the transom was still usable. I figured if properly cared for, I shouldnt have much trouble getting another 20 out of it. I still havent finished the boat as I found a good deal on a 254 and have spent the last 2 years on that one! I should be pulling the old 20 back in the shop in a few months unless of course I find a hell of a deal on a 1979 23 footer between now and then!
    Dave [br]Woodbury Heights, NJ[br]\'73 Mako 20[br]\'85 Mako 254[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=55336[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52586

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    • #3
      I tend to agree with what Kings Pointer already said. I redid my transom, among other things, last year. I used marine plywood and polyester resin for 2 reasons: 1) the boat was 45yrs old and like King Pointer's, still usable (albeit somewhat wet from unsealed holes). I mostly did mine because I planned to repower and wanted a 25" engine 2) I'm not sure how long I'll keep my boat as most here seem to get TwoFoot-itis and end up going bigger. My personal opinion is that if I were to sell the boat, I wouldn't see the return on my additional investment. I think the plywood was in the neighborhood of $150-175 for the two sheets of 3/4" plywood vs something like 500-600 for Coosa. If I was confident I was keeping the boat a minimum of 5 years I might have gone a different route, maybe.

      I got rid of the huge cutout of my 19 and went with a 25" transom. I got rid of the notch because it doesn't take a big wave to come over the transom of a 19 and bumped the transom up because I knew I was going to have a 25" motor. I can't really say what would be best for you as I've never been in a 20 or even seen one in person.

      My project thread is here: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=57280

      The pictures still seem to work, but if they don't work for you, please let me know and I'll re-host them somewhere where they do work
      1973 Mako 19[br]

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