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1972 MAKO 19ft soft deck under console

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  • 1972 MAKO 19ft soft deck under console

    I just bought my first boat ever 1972 Mako 19ft with a 1987 Johnson 120hp outboard. The previous owner had the gas tank replaced in 02. The hatch under the center console that cover tank is soft. I just removed hatch and scraped out all the rotted wood between the fiberglass top and bottom. Any ideas how I should put this back together so that it last a few years? I bought some bondo resin from home depot and some 3m 5200. All I can find is pressure treated wood around here. I live in Northern NJ
    1972 Mako 19

  • #2
    Lots of options...

    You can use wood, but I'd recommend a composite material such as nida-core or coosa, which will never rot. If something that fancy doesnt suit you, you can also consider using 1/2" azek board, which also wont rot. You'll have to roughen up the azek with 60 grit sandpaper to get good adhesion.

    Grind lower skin down to clean glass

    1 layer 1708 biaxial.

    Bed core in thickened resin.

    2-3 layers 1708, tied into the existing glass, and you should be good.

    There are many pics on this site, but unfortunately with the photobucket change I'm not sure how many are accessible.
    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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    • #3
      There are a lot of NJ people on here. Hopefully they can direct you where to buy supplies locally. Home depot Bondo resin is overpriced, I'd return it. oddly, they do have good prices on 3M sealants, but don't use 5200 on anything that won't be permanent. And resin won't stick to pressure treated wood. You need marine grade plywood or I hear some cabinet grade ply is using poly glue now. If you're truely strapped for supplies and shipping is the only option, i like the below []

      fibreglast.com

      http://www.lbifiberglass.com.html

      http://www.uscomposites.com/
      [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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      • #4
        Thanks for the info. I read somewhere that using silicone was not a good option for a sealant and to use 3m 5200. I was planning on using that to seal that hatch down before I screw it down. Also to keep the water out. Hopefully It will be at least 10yrs before that has to come up.
        1972 Mako 19

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        • #5
          5200 is very hard to remove.

          Many use 4200, or 4000 UV (wont yellow), or one of the boat life products.
          ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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