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1982 Mako 254 "Makover"

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  • 1982 Mako 254 "Makover"

    I know the name is not original, but there really isn't any other appropriate name for it. I found this 1982 254 on ebay for $5000 and had it trailered out to southern California. Seven month project. Here are some before shots:





    After stripping everything, I did some modifications. I don't need a 150 gallon tank and an aux 50 gallon tank, so I removed both, had a new 100 gallon made, put in a bulkhead 2/3rds back and made a "wet storage" locker. I then put a small freshwater tank in the Aux spot (only 6 inches high), and made that my dry storage.



    I created access to the dry storage by cutting into the front of the console and putting it on a piano hinge. The new seat cushion hides everything. It lifts up to allow for a porta potty and everything else in the dry storage. Greatest addition to the boat.







    It had the anchor locker in the middle of the foredeck so I blew out the one wall and made it into a collapsible table.







    I anchor a lot of Catalina Island so I wanted a windlass. I cut into the bow rail and insert a resin infused glass over solid maple plank. I cut up an old sabot for the thin "skirts" that go down to the rubrail. Turned out great. Custom chain plank and guard. Drops nicely into the forward hatch (now my anchor locker).





    I removed the rotted out drawers behind the leaning post and set in a Kodiak bait tank. It fit neatly in about a third of the way and I wrapped the outside with luan and glassed it. Put a little window in there too (a little tricky with the tank vs window...polyethelene vs polypropolene). But its water tight and the bait (and lobsters) love it!





    A couple added extras like splash tabs for the single (took off the twin 150's and put on a single Etec 250), and made a drop down trash can out of the fuel transfer pump location.





    And to sleep on it, I made a canvas bow cover that has battons and little slots (made with my biscuit joiner) that pops right up and fastens to the underside of the dry storage hatch at night (easy access to the porta potty). The best thing about this cover is that it rolls up about 7 feet long and 3 inches in diameter - perfect size to stow away in the rod locker...







    Lots of fun, and custom to the way I like it! BTW I have the Lowrance HDS 9 with NMEA 2000 networked and the SonicHub sound system. I love the marriage of high tech with the classic analog gauges.



    And the hull is Awlgrip Seafoam Green. 4 coats rolled and tipped. the stuff is magic (sprayed the inside white).



    Love my Mako!!!

  • #2
    Boat looks great! Ive been planning on rolling and tipping my 17 when the shes ready but I was worried I wouldnt get the results I want. Glad to see how well your turned out. Nice work!

    Dave

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    • #3
      Boat looks sick! Love the console seat/access.
      ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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      • #4
        Boat looks sick! Love the console seat/access.
        ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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        • #5
          Dave, I swear by Awlgrip. Of course like everything else the work is in the prep. I used a high build primer and then the awlgrip 545 primer, but then rolled and tipped the topcoats. Two person job. Awlgrip is like magic. After about five minutes the brush strokes just flatten out. Amazing. After six or nine months use the Awlcare polish and you'll get the mirror finish I have in the photo.

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          • #6
            Dave, I swear by Awlgrip. Of course like everything else the work is in the prep. I used a high build primer and then the awlgrip 545 primer, but then rolled and tipped the topcoats. Two person job. Awlgrip is like magic. After about five minutes the brush strokes just flatten out. Amazing. After six or nine months use the Awlcare polish and you'll get the mirror finish I have in the photo.

            Comment


            • #7
              I would be interested in the Laun and glass technique. Did it take a lot of fairing before you sprayed it? Any in work progress pictures. The rebuild looks fabulous. That 250 matches it well. I assume you make some Tuna runs out of southern Cal.
              [br]1984 Mako 224[br]1977 Mako 15[br]Clermont, Florida- [br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37212 -Rewire[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40627 -Tank/Misc[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=58615 - Aft Box removal

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              • #8
                The fit and finish looks awesome...

                How did you create the lib/positive stop on the console so the flip up door has a stop and aligns properly when in the down position? Tight work for sure.
                1978 Mako 17 Standerd[br]1990 Welcraft 33 Sportfish 2000 14 Polar Craft

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                • #9
                  Snappergapper, I built a frame, drapped the luan over it and starting glassing. When semi rigid, I flipped it over and glassed the other side. Once in place I did fill and fair a bit before painting.

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                  • #10
                    Once cut, the console hatch was flimsy and needed reinforcement. And I built an inch wide lip to receive the hatch.

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                    • #11
                      Once cut, the console hatch was flimsy and needed reinforcement. And I built an inch wide lip to receive the hatch.

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                      • #12
                        quote:


                        Originally posted by Wayner


                        Once cut, the console hatch was flimsy and needed reinforcement. And I built an inch wide lip to receive the hatch.



                        Hard to tell from the pics but it looks like the lib on the console face was molded in. Did you just cut a piece Starboard and screw it in from back? Looks really good bro, tight work...
                        1978 Mako 17 Standerd[br]1990 Welcraft 33 Sportfish 2000 14 Polar Craft

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                        • #13
                          quote:


                          Originally posted by Diamond Dave


                          quote:


                          Originally posted by Wayner


                          Once cut, the console hatch was flimsy and needed reinforcement. And I built an inch wide lip to receive the hatch.



                          Hard to tell from the pics but it looks like the lib on the console face was molded in. Did you just cut a piece Starboard and screw it in from back? Looks really good bro, tight work...



                          Dave, not sure I get the question. Only places I used starboard was the bait tank top (half inch sacrificial piece that I could cut on and replace), and the hatches.

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                          • #14
                            Hey Wayner, absolutely beautiful work. Ive got a 20 Im doing now, and after pulling off old floor, Im trying to design a better use of the spaces below deck. Your boat has great useable space and the step down dry storage area is off the hook. Did you replace any foam or did you just leave it out? Im undecided as to replacing as was original or leaving some out. I dont know that even replacing it as it was, would even be enough to float the boat anyway. If anybody out there knows the answer to this please let me know. My 1974 20 will probably come in around 1500-2000 lbs? Please excuse if this has been discussed thousands of times, the search function and site seem to be a bit jacked up, and Ive scanned pages of threads and havent found.

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