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78 Mako 20 semi restore project. I have questions

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  • 78 Mako 20 semi restore project. I have questions

    I am sorry, this will be long. I will add a TLDNR at the bottom.

    Hi guys. My name is William. Been browsing here for awhile but finally joined to post. Since Photobucket has taken a dump, I don't have a way to post the pics at this very moment. I will post some this weekend however. This is my first boat, and it needs some TLC. I bought it from a family friend knowing it doesn't run, which isn't an issue. I can fix the engine, which is a 1981 Evinrude 150. It was in my budget, though worth far more than I paid, so could talk the wife into letting me buy it even though we had our daughter in December. lol

    First things first, it needs a really good scrubbing down, which I hopefully will get to do this weekend now that the hurricane is gone. The floor is solid except for under the driver side seat post. I do not believe the floor wood is rotten at all. The previous owner was a big guy, over 400lbs, so I feel the foam under that spot has just been "compressed". I plan to pull the tank out to pressure test it etc... and should be able to reach under the floor to verify this. If so, I will try to remove the damaged foam and use the "injectadeck" structural foam to fill the void under the floor without drilling any holes as I do not want to expose the wood to moisture. I then plan to seal the seat post holes with epoxy, and install a cooler seat instead, which will help distribute my weight better, and provide a cooler as I plan to use the cooler in front of the console as a bait well. I may end up removing a portion of the top skin to replace the wood in the seat area, then glass it back down, but do not want to do this if not 100% needed.

    My main questions concern the outside of the hull. It appears to have been repainted at some point, and is flaking. I have done some research and it seems painting it would be better/easier than gelcoating it. The fiberglass is exposed in a couple of spots on the side up high, way above the water line, however I would like to paint the whole outside. I have seen Awlgrip mentioned a lot, but the Awlgrip I find says it cannot be used below the water line. So what paint should I be using below the water line?

    Also, there are a couple of "nicks" in the spine of the v hull, like they grounded the boat on something while fishing, prolly an oyster bar etc... They arnt bad, but I still want to fix them, and it seems epoxy is the way to go, but which kind/type? I want it to last! I prefer to do things right the first time, but am not in a position where I can strip the boat and flip it upside down or do a full floor replacement with non wood etc...

    Also, does anyone have any pics or write ups on what would be needed to run a couple lines to the front cooler to make it a live baitwell with circulating water? I dont know how much, if any room is available under the floor for this etc... but have read of many people converting that small cooler to a bait well. I guess I could just run a bubbler line to it and swap the water out a few times while fishing, but it drains onto the deck so I would rather not do that.

    Aside from that, any way to get replacement windscreens? Mine is in 1 piece, but has some cracks in it. I have some big plans. Need to add a fuse box to tidy up the wiring below the console and add new items later like a gps/fish finder, lights, stereo, etc.. It already has a ship to shore radio that works etc.. Gonna replace the steering wheel with a SS destroyer 13.5in wheel, and would like to find the piece missing from my controls, or get a replacement top mount control that looks good. I will post a WTB for that when I can post pics. Its not pretty at all, but is solid, and will be reliable after I am done with the motor so will be a good fishing vessel for me and my friends/family, which is what I bought it for. You really need a boat to fish around here. Shore fishing is horrible.

    TLDNR= what paint can be used under the water line? What epoxy is best for fixing nicks in the hull on the v line? Any good threads on converting the cooler in front of the console to a live bait well?

  • #2
    Welcome William!

    And nice hull

    IMHO, from owning this exact boat:

    - Soft deck. Leave it alone. As long as it's not cracked open, it's fine. Because any sort of deck repair becomes a huge project and PITA, and unless you've got time, money, indoor workspace, and skills, it's not worth messing with.

    - Tank. If you still have the original, then you are due for a replacement, as 40+ years old is at least 10 yrs past due. Do not pull a tank and expect to put it back--the pulling process will damage structural integrity. And a pressure test is meaningless--you could still be half a mil of corrosion away from BOOM. Also, if you pull the tank, then also pull and replace the feed and vent lines. Don't want to be digging in there twice, and they also have the same lifespan.

    - Keel dings. You could probably do this with the boat on the trailer, but probably easier if up on blocks. A little grinding, a little fill, a few layers of glass, etc. There are others here, and resources online, that will give you more detailed advice than I can. Note that if you plan to paint, you might want to take care of this and any other hull dings first.

    Read some of these threads:

    https://www.google.com/search?biw=12....0.4bDB-Ayp6xY

    - Paint. Can't help you. Run a similar search to the above.

    - Livewell, I don't think the front seat storage would make a good one, and maybe not a good idea to be running water under your console. However, you can convert one of the aft fishboxes fairly easily, as I did with mine:

    http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=12152

    - Windshield. There are a few places online that sell replacements, amongst which UPD Plastics, which seems to have our model as the fourth down (but check 7th also) on this page:

    https://www.updplastics.com/mako-boat-windshields/

    - Electrics. Reviewing the wiring and fixing anything non-marine, or loose, or non- shrink-wrapped, is a great idea. As is moving the battery(s) to under the console, adding a BEP combiner, maybe a charger, and ditching all glass fuses in favor of a Blue Seas circuit breaker block (there's a link on my pers page in sig below).

    Finally, remember it's an older boat, don't try to make it perfect, and just enjoy it!
    NYC & L.I. - 1974 \"Classic\" Mako 20\' - Suzuki 2006 DF150 - Fly & Light Tackle, C&R[br]My boat: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23444#159594[br]Personal website: http://www.georgemcauliffe.com/

    Comment


    • #3
      I don't think it is the original tank. It has a fitting coming up out of the floor with the fuel line on it, and a gas gauge that has a pipe going into the floor as well, so I am assuming the fuel gauge on the console does not work as this "mechanical" gauge does. it shows just over 3/4 tank, and moves up and down if you rock the boat. Anyhow, it appears they had a plastic tank in the rear they were using that didn't come with the boat. The water/fuel separator for the internal tank has a plug on the outlet. I would like to move back to a factory style tank, and iirc RDS aluminum still makes them.

      As for the line and vent hose etc... I plan to replace these as well as all other fuel lines. Battery is already under the console, and has a dual battery switch mounted. I'm thinking a normal starter battery and a deep cycle for use under there. I do plan to add a charger and have the plug in the back so its easy to plug the extension cord in to charge my batteries.

      And yes, I want to fix the "dings" before painting the boat. To start, I will likely just do some touch up spots where the dings where once repaired and make sure no raw fiberglass is visible. It actually looks like they had something leaned against the boat that rubbed through the paint, so likely wasn't ever bare when in use. This way I can use the boat, then paint it later. Id rather use it then worry about it being show worthy. lol.

      As for the bait box, with my back being the way it is, I would prefer to not have to get bait out of the floor every time I bait my hook. Kind of a PITA. To start, I will likely just use a 5 gallon bucket with a bubbler. May just end up putting a 12v bubbler on a switch and use the stock cooler that way when I am out fishing. I am not anxious to run water under the console either, but I would make sure it is done right if I do. As it is, the fuel feed from the tank will likely be braided 6an hose. No clamps to worry about rusting and popping off, or being too tight and cutting into the hose etc...

      As for the fuse box, I already picked out this one. Blue Sea Fuse Block 5026. Also, I plan to rerun the wires for the lights. Some of the wires under the console are corroded, and I don't know for sure what they go to, but I suspect it is the lights. I need to remove the seats to really get under there and verify, but don't want to do that till the rainy season dies down some more as the boat sits outside. My degree is in electronics so the wiring will be cake, and I'm a huge car guy so engine work is no big deal either. My only weakness at this point is the FG work, as I haven't really done any of that, but will learn fast.

      Comment


      • #4
        Havent had time to get a new pic hosting account somewhere to show pics. did check the motor out, turns out the 1 cylinder low on compression has (the what seems to be common from my research) had a ring pop off the piston far enough to get caught on the intake port and bounce around the head and piston. Cylinder wall is fine aside from a single gouge. I plan to have a friend of mine look at it that works at a shop that rebuilds boat engines for inboard. I am betting I can just clean that spot with a carbide bit and put a good weld on it and have it cleaned up on a bore machine, but will see what he says first.

        Luckily, I already have a Johnson 150 from the same year in the garage that has good compression and spark etc... Just needs the carbs cleaned. I plan to buy rings and a full gasket kit and rebuild the entire power head, as well as the fuel pumps, carbs, new water pump and full lower unit seal kit etc.. Might as well make sure the old rings on this Johnson wont end up doing the same thing as on the Evinrude right away.

        Finally got the title from the previous owner, and it is a 78, not a 74 as I was led to believe, Fine by me. Only difference according to the specs is it is a bit heavier. Same size tank etc...

        I also found that the best thing to use to fix the nicks on the hull would be the West marine epoxy with the 400 filler. I plan to order that soon and get to work. Havent decided on a coating for the bottom yet. I had found a link for a bottom coat that isnt anti foaling, but now I cannot seem to find it, nor the bookmark I saved. Was a 2 part setup that must be mixed equally, and then you have to let it sit for at least 30min before spraying or rolling it on. If anyone recalls what it is called, please let me know. I was thinking of just buying it in white and coating the entire outside of the boat hull with it instead of just below the water line.

        Comment


        • #5
          any type of anti fouling paint on the bottom is fine. Do you plan on leaving it in the water for more than 3 days at a time? if not just use topside paint and youll be ok as well.

          as for filling knicks, marine tex works. you can use epoxy or poly resin and just add some cabosil or similar as a fairing comound. You can even add cabosil to gelcoat if you desire and if you dont feel like repainting the hull.

          My fuel tank is original on my 1980. I pulled it out and took it to a tank shop an he just told me to coat it and put it back. I always hear people tell me to change my tank on the boat because its old, just inspect it and if it needs replaced then you replace it then.
          Marc Muzzy[br]S.W. Florida [br]Anna Maria Island[br]\'81 25 \'09 suzuki 250[br]

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          • #6
            Thanks. I plan to inspect it before buying a replacement, and only buy a replacement if it is needed. Being a 44 gallon tank, id say it has 35+ gallons in it currently and has for years. Need to figure out where I can legally dump old gas around here and then pump it out.

            And no, I do not plan to leave it in the water. it will be on the trailer when not in use.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi William, Wecome to CM

              I highly recommend replacing your fuel fill, vent lines, and the line to the engine. Mako used aluminum fuel fill line in the 70's not sure anout the 80's.

              The aluminum corroded leaving holes which leaked gass into the foam.

              As for your tank...I would replace it being that old and since you are planing to take it out anyway. They corrode on the inside also. Then you will have a sold and safe platform to build on. Try Sunshine Tanks in Miami, Fl. They are great to work with and ship anywhere.

              Good luck
              1982 17\' Mitchell gone[br]1985 Mako 21 had 7 years[br]1951 15\' Critchfield first rebuild 1986 with a 35hp tiller gone [br]1992 17 Maverick rebuilt in 2000 still have[br]1973 Mako 20 currently rebuilding[br]South Florida, Don[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?Topic_ID=37475[br]

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi William, Wecome to CM

                I highly recommend replacing your fuel fill, vent lines, and the line to the engine. Mako used aluminum fuel fill line in the 70's not sure anout the 80's.

                The aluminum corroded leaving holes which leaked gass into the foam.

                As for your tank...I would replace it being that old and since you are planing to take it out anyway. They corrode on the inside also. Then you will have a sold and safe platform to build on. Try Sunshine Tanks in Miami, Fl. They are great to work with and ship anywhere.

                Good luck
                1982 17\' Mitchell gone[br]1985 Mako 21 had 7 years[br]1951 15\' Critchfield first rebuild 1986 with a 35hp tiller gone [br]1992 17 Maverick rebuilt in 2000 still have[br]1973 Mako 20 currently rebuilding[br]South Florida, Don[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?Topic_ID=37475[br]

                Comment

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