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1992 221b - Don’t Call it a Restore

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Stroken View Post
    Shoot me your address here or on Facebook and I’ll get one ready to go out to you.

    as far as the cockpit thru hull, I swapped to stainless, Ben 4 years so not 100% this is the one I used but check your measurements cause this looks like it if it’s 2”

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/332453115194
    Good deal, PM coming here in a minute!

    Thanks for the link...mine are 2" as well. Got two on order and will replace both to hopefully not have a similar issue in the future (pvc separating).

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    • #32
      Originally posted by hectorsn View Post
      I replaced my port side scupper valve not too long ago. I have a friend who deals in valves and he ended up getting me a stainless swing check valve. I don't know if it's because it's new or because it's stainless but man does that thing make its presence known over the old bronze valve!

      Anyhow, the thru fittings are NPT parallel threads as far as I can tell, so some thread sealant and tightening is all that's needed for the NPT valve ends. As far as bronze over brass, I don't know what to say. I've been told to only use bronze or stainless with anything dealing with water 24/7 which since my boat is wet slipped and my scuppers somewhat underwater definitely qualifies.

      Loving the updates and so jealous of your results and vigor. I'm going to have to challenge myself the next time I get the boat out to try and duplicate your results but my laziness will be tough to overcome!
      Thanks for the check valve details...and what you mentioned confirmed my guess regarding the stainless valve clangs louder compared to the original bronze valve.

      Re: laziness...my laziness is real too...and I would be done with this way sooner if I didn't find other fun projects to work on in the meantime!

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      • #33
        Picked up my windshield pieces from powder coater today and they look pretty good. Was $100 for them to blast, wash/etch, prime and color....not too bad. This gray is very close match to the gray taco marine suproflex rubrail I have and the gray underside of the new Weblon t-top canvas (gray under and white on top). Based on the job they did for the windshield I plan to have them do the t-top and leaning post, which they estimate to cost $500-$600 for a standard off white color.





        Last edited by S4cruiser; 07-14-2021, 04:51 PM.

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        • #34
          Windshield looks good, that’s a good bit of tedious work for $100, I’d pay that all day. The t top and leaning post would look good white.
          Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him had better take a closer look at the American Indian. -Henry Ford[br]1988 Mako 261 \"Stroken\" Project Thread: http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26203[br]1992 Mako221B project thread: http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48747[br]1992 Mako 261B \"Reel Impressive\" project thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=56286[br]

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          • #35
            Worked on more polishing and compounding...blah blah blah. Between an 18 month old, work and this heat/afternoon showers I do what I can to keep making forward progress.

            This morning I focused on the engine cowl since I could take it inside the shop / air conditioning. I should’ve taken before shots as it was pretty beat....I was assuming it might be a goner with huge white stains and lots of oxidation. It cleaned up great - compound, polish and sealant. Still need to do the lower clam shell pieces.

            Also, when I dropped off my t-top for repair, I got contact details for a guy local that does cnc boat work and is fairly new (e.g. not slammed). I plan to have him repop a bunch of 29 year old starboard pieces AND some lexan for the helm. I am waffling b/w two (2) 9” vs one (1) 12” display...and also simrad vs garmin. Leaning toward simrad go series for cost.





            Oh...I also dug out the half assed repair of an old transducer hole in the transom. 3/4” hole (above waterline) that was plugged (sloppily at best) 4200. To my delight, the wood around the hole interior is super dry (#dodgingbullets). What’s the correct way to repair this? I was surprised by the efffort it took to remove the 4200 plug.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Stroken View Post
              Windshield looks good, that’s a good bit of tedious work for $100, I’d pay that all day. The t top and leaning post would look good white.
              Thanks and totally agree....it likely took someone 1/2 to blast it, then wash/etc and then powder. $100 is a steal.

              now I just need to find a source for the weatherstripping that isn’t 6 weeks out. I tried pompannet and they want $6 per foot and 6 week lead time. Ocean dynamics has yet to send me a quote which is concerning. Peeps must have way more business then they can handle these days.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by S4cruiser View Post
                ign":"
                Oh...I also dug out the half assed repair of an old transducer hole in the transom. 3/4” hole (above waterline) that was plugged (sloppily at best) 4200. To my delight, the wood around the hole interior is super dry (#dodgingbullets). What’s the correct way to repair this? I was surprised by the efffort it took to remove the 4200 plug.
                I would grind 1-2” around hole to glass, use a hole saw and cut (preferably coosa) that would fit in there, sandwiched with some csm both inside and out. Someone else might have a better idea but that’s mine.


                luckily I have always managed to save my weather stripping, don’t have any good source there.
                Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him had better take a closer look at the American Indian. -Henry Ford[br]1988 Mako 261 \"Stroken\" Project Thread: http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26203[br]1992 Mako221B project thread: http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48747[br]1992 Mako 261B \"Reel Impressive\" project thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=56286[br]

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                • #38
                  Hello everybody, I am living in Rome Italy and I am owner of Mako 221B 1992, so I needed to do the C.E. Certificationhere in Italy, and they ask me the technical drawings or owner manual, I contacted Mako, but they don't have any drawings or manuals before 1996. Can anyone help me ??
                  Thank you

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                  • Shakes_26
                    Shakes_26 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Italo, you should make a posting directly in the forums under its own title. Also reach out to the Facebook group for Classics Mako's. There may be an owner who can scan their manual. I have seen some online with a google search.

                • #39
                  Here is the finished retrofit light housing. Blasted and then clear coated with 60 lumen led lights (IP65 rated). The lights were only ~$7 each from superbrightleds. Thanks again to Stroken for hooking me up with a replacement housing!!

                  Also made some new gaskets using the old ones as a template.



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                  • #40
                    What products are you using on cutting polishing and sealing that cowling, have a old merc 125 I need to do.
                    Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him had better take a closer look at the American Indian. -Henry Ford[br]1988 Mako 261 \"Stroken\" Project Thread: http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26203[br]1992 Mako221B project thread: http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48747[br]1992 Mako 261B \"Reel Impressive\" project thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=56286[br]

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                    • #41
                      Originally posted by Stroken View Post
                      What products are you using on cutting polishing and sealing that cowling, have a old merc 125 I need to do.
                      Meguiars Ultimate Compound using griots orbital and orange cutting foam pad
                      Meguiars Ultimate Polish using griots orbital and white polishing foam pad
                      Jescar powerlock sealant applied by hand

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                      • #42
                        Wow, just read through your thread, you did an excellent job on the gelcoat and that I would think that cowling was new old stock if it weren't for the stickers.

                        Did you powder coat the courtesy light housing. I saw you said clear coat but it looks a little different.

                        Did you already order your rub rail? I'll be ordering one as well in the next few months.

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                        • #43
                          Originally posted by Picknasty View Post
                          Wow, just read through your thread, you did an excellent job on the gelcoat and that I would think that cowling was new old stock if it weren't for the stickers.

                          Did you powder coat the courtesy light housing. I saw you said clear coat but it looks a little different.

                          Did you already order your rub rail? I'll be ordering one as well in the next few months.
                          Thanks! I media blasted the light housings to give it a satin like texture and then shot 2 coats of clear (not powder coated). I did get a rub rail, went with Taco Suproflex kit in gray. Ordered from Hodges Marine...they had the best prices and i was very pleased with how quickly they shipped. I plan to install in a few weeks once I get all my gelcoat repair work and polishing done on the gunnels.

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                          • #44
                            Originally posted by S4cruiser View Post
                            Here is the finished retrofit light housing. Blasted and then clear coated with 60 lumen led lights (IP65 rated). The lights were only ~$7 each from superbrightleds. Thanks again to Stroken for hooking me up with a replacement housing!!

                            Also made some new gaskets using the old ones as a template.



                            Can you share a link to the lights you bought? I need to replace my lights and would love to go LED. I have the same boat... looking good
                            1996 Mako 232[br]Essex MA

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                            • #45
                              Originally posted by sbeausol View Post

                              Can you share a link to the lights you bought? I need to replace my lights and would love to go LED. I have the same boat... looking good
                              https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...g51gKbo5DYsdrk

                              These require a little massaging (e.g. dremel work around the edge so the mounting screws fit). I can get pics of this if needed.

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