1992 221b - Don’t Call it a Restore

[S4cruiser]

I picked up a 221b a couple weeks ago and while she’s fairly decent she also needs some love. Has a 2008 225 Optimax that’s got a new oem lower unit and decent maintenance history, newer electronics and well built but older trailer. Tank has ‘supposedly’ been replaced...if not and I have issues then I’ll replace it.

My first major task is to replace the suspension on the trailer (‘98 Loadmaster), rewire and add electric drums to one axle. Axles and hubs are newerish but no brakes currently. While my tow vehicle is a Chevy Duramax...having trailer brakes is still preferred for me. Got parts in route for this.

Also on the list is a wet sand, buff, polish and sealant/wax job. Got parts in route for this too.

Already have a set of placards coming from Eddie. Rub rail replacement is a task I hope to tackle soon too. Still contemplating whether I do a stainless insert or classic rubber style.

Couple things I need to source are a replacement for the plastic vent piece on the transom...mine is cracked in a couple places. Also need to find some rubber flaps for the large round scuppers. Oh and the bottom paint needs a refresh or removal.

Pic for clicks!

[hectorsn]

Welcome! I have the same boat and engine, although newer boat but older engine. It's my first boat and I do love her. Great for family and fishing. I was just out in her yesterday making memories.

On the subject of the scupper flaps, I left those out. The scupper valves do a fantastic job of keeping water off the cockpit floor, that is if you have them and they are working properly. In my opinion, those rubber flappers just help keep more water on the floor than stopping water from getting in.

Enjoy your new purchase!

[PoleLock]

Nice boat...Welcome to the ClassicMako forum.

Eric

[slider]

I have the same Mako, 1992. The plastic vent on the transom you can find at West marine. It’s the exact fit.

[S4cruiser]

On the subject of the scupper flaps, I left those out. The scupper valves do a fantastic job of keeping water off the cockpit floor, that is if you have them and they are working properly. In my opinion, those rubber flappers just help keep more water on the floor than stopping water from getting in.

Good info for sure...I will be sure to check for proper valve function.

[S4cruiser]

The plastic vent on the transom you can find at West marine. It’s the exact fit.

Perfect, thanks!!

[S4cruiser]

I was finally able to clear / finish a number of other projects and have some time to dedicate to the boat.

First order of business was replacing the worn out leaf springs, mounting hardware and equalizers - axles no longer ride on the bottom of the trailer frame!

I've got a laundry list items to tackle and hope to spend the next couple months knocking them out...the list below will likely grow but it's a start!

Trailer
- install brakes on one axle....currently undecided if i do electric drums for the short term or surge discs or go full bore with electric over hydro discs. Trailer may see saltwater a few times a year.
- rewire entire trailer and install breakaway box
- install new led trailer lights (running, tails and backup)
- install guide poles
- two new rims/tires and use pair of the current ones as spares
- pair of spare tire / hub mounts (finding these for 6x5.5 pattern hubs is not easy)

Boat
- replace t-top canvas (sent original canvas to G2 Outfitters a couple days ago and getting Weblon Regatta white top / driftwood underside)
- get rid of / replace and rewire the bobo t-top led spreader lights
- rewire bow and stern lights plus new bulbs (some of the 'wiring' on this boat is pitiful at best)
- new t-top mounted anchor light and rewire
- remove, refresh and rewire oem console and stern interior lights
- replace rod holder rubber/nylon sleeves (have a set from Lee's tackle on the way)
- recover front console backrest cushion
- have stern combing pad made
- new gas fill cap (current one is black plastic type material)
- tidy up bilge and washdown/live well pump wiring (pumps are maybe 1 year old)
- replace bilge hose
- see if i can free up the check valve for starboard side deck drain
- replace all hatch/hinge hardware (some dumbass didn't use stainless nuts on a lot of bolts) going to reuse the oem hinges for now
- replace rub rail (leaning towards the Taco Marine Suproflex in white/stainless but can't decide b/w the small and medium sizes)
- misc gelcoat and minor fiberglass repairs
- new vhf mount
- new bottom paint
- replace stern venturi
- recaulk live well hatch
- powder coat t-top windshield frame
- replace a bunch of misc hardware with stainless

Engine
- new zinc(s)
- lower unit oil change (it's a new oem Mercury unit that has maybe 15 hours on it)
- run it till it explodes

Few things that are up in the air...
- Can't decide if I want to go ahead and pull the t-top and leaning post for powder coating or try and cleanup the anodizing. It's got some decent oxidation on the top portion.
- Do some further inspecting of the fuel tank and figure out why i have a hint of either fuel or 2 stroke oil smell in the bilge...tank has supposedly been replaced in the last 7ish years.
- Considering if I go ahead and rewire the entire boat. Current wiring is maybe a couple years old and has newer electronics but it's not as clean as I would like. I've wired a couple older vehicles from scratch and my ocd may get the best of me with this boat's current state. Would also add a 2 bank charger, new agm batteries, etc. if I rewire.

That's a hefty list but I'm a sucker for a project!

[S4cruiser]

Working on the hull...got the port side wet sanded (1k abralon), compounded (ardex 600) and polished (menzerna 400) with the rotary. Still need to polish with the DA and menzerna 400 to remove holograms and follow with jescar powerlock sealant. Happy so far with the results (pic of starboard side in purchased condition). I do have a few gelcoat patches but nothing major.

starboard side in purchase condition


port side after wet sand


after compounding


after rotary polish

[kgfisher]

Nice work. That side looks fantastic!
Keep the updates coming.

[S4cruiser]

Had time yesterday and this morning to get the port side polished out with the DA (holograms removed) and then applied Jescar powerlock sealant. The results are better then I could’ve hoped tbh. I’ll be thrilled if the topside comes out near this good. Props to the peeps that do this work on a day in day out basis. At my pace I’ll be done by August, ha!

[S4cruiser]

Yay...looks like I can likely add a new tank to my to-do list. Since I’ve had the boat at the house I’ve noticed a fuel like smell from the stern area. A bit of inspecting looks like it’s leaking from the sender and also what looks like a pin hole a few inches away. Tank is FULL. Was supposedly replaced in the early 2000s so it might need another tank already? Is this foam look like original foam mako used...not that it really matter if there is a pin hole on the top as they’re are likely more below.

Assuming this is what I think it is then my plan is to get the boat back together enough this summer to run the fuel out and then replace the tank this fall. Yay.

[S4cruiser]

Replacing the rub rail with the Taco Suproflex but am unsure as to which size to go with - small or medium kit. The original rub rail I removed measures ~1.16" thick and ~1.72" tall.

Taco suproflex small measures .78125" thick and 1.59375" tall

Taco suproflex medium measure .90625" thick and 2" tall.

Which one would be the better choice?

[Stroken]

The polishing has made her shine like a diamond. Awesome job there.

the tank does appear to be original. I doubt the original one went in ~10 years for an early 2000’s replacement, but the OEM mako tanks have an aluminum like sticker around that sensing unit I believe, and will tell you mfg. date.

As far as rub rails, I have used Barbour plastics on both of my 261, and 221b with the SS insert and they are 2”x1”. Out of your options I would go with the medium.

[Stroken]

A couple of pictures for reference.

[S4cruiser]

Super helpful - thanks Stroken