1969 CC 19'

[Lectro88]

I'm going to try this again.
In the middle of a total cut & gut.
All foam was waterlogged, had carpenter ants tunnel in foam all through soaked gunnel.
So In an attempt to remove and replace ALL foam everywhere, the lid or cap needs to come off.
I have been "slowly" nipping away at trying to lift cap. excavator lifting boat off trailer by cleats with 0 progress.
Cut 4" hole in top of gunnel under tread teak wood, and made a long bit to chew through foam from top to bottom diagonally at a width of 4-6 feet.(to waeken foam)
the cap is solid locked down with 0 budging especially at the corner of the transom and bait box.
So took demo in a different direction, I cut the parameter of the floor about an 1-1-1/2" from gunnel to gain access to underside to try and see what was locking cap down so tite.
Lifting the whole section of floor also again lifted boat off trailer as foam seemed to be a major culprit in this adhesion.
Now I have resorted to stabbing a hand saw up from the bottom on gunnel to top of cap.
Now let me back up here a little bit...
When I cut that 4" hole at teak step plate. there was a 3/4" piece of plywood backside of baitbox that looks like support for box and it appeared to head back toward transom. The transom, danget is mush. And I prefer to again have this lid/cap out of the way to access trans to do all other repairs and build back.
I don't see this plywood tying to anything significant again as everything is 51yrs old and mush/rotted.
Am I missing something here. is it just the foam holding cap/lid to the hull.?

Or is there some fusing with glass out of sight out of mind for structural integrity.
I have also placed a board under baitbox and spanned across the hull(across all stringers) to displace pressure and put another board to pry up against box, to point of gently flexing bottom of hull and had another guy prying up on lid at cleat, (now with crow bars.. And I'm using 4foot bar)both of us and the bait box,lid, cap gives absolutely NONE. The bottom of hull flexes down and the lid/box just stays right in place. (yes rub rail is removed)
This boat is just solid still in less than perfect conditions.
Hats off to Mako back in the day for build techniques early on.
Any words of wisdom welcomed.
I am going to get this 1 way or another.
MAYBE... by some input from here.
I just don't want to cut and hack everything to obtain disassembly. I would like to have most major components intact. or as much as possible...
Thanks in advance.

[Lectro88]

any thoughts

[PoleLock]

Check out this thread...it should be helpful.
https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...0447-1972-mako

Perhaps post some pictures of what you have cut and removed already.

Good luck and keep us updated.

Eric

[Lectro88]

Thank you PoleLock.
Where did and how did you dig that up.
I have,,. I thought turned this site upside down and shook the dust out of old archives,.(Apparently Not)I mean I have been digging around 6 months.
the link you gave is pretty much what I'm underway of doing.
Looks like he tied boat down to trailer, Post supported or locked trailer down to building by rafters/trusses, then chain hoisted cap apart from hull.....
And from the raggedy shreds of fiberglass where hull and lid joins in the pics... It looks like its fused/glassed together.
NO m0$%&@?:%$#/ng wonder I'm just lifting the boat like a reject. LOOKS like it needs to be ripped apart.
I was really afraid of buckling and shattering the cap/lid with the lifting ability of the excavator.
What I thought was being rowdy or aggressive, Apparently has been being too gentle. Will switch gears a little bit.

I will try and post pics here. I have them on another site too. Kinda hate to have them in 2 places.
Seems easier to post pics from phone than from ipad/computer.


MANY thanks again.

[Lectro88]

Going to try and post a few pics.
Starting with how it looked when I brought it home.
I drug this boat from NY back to NC. about 800 miles.
This boat was built the same year I was born.
And the wife of 20yrs found a better deal after I was injured.
So too long of a story to tell here.
But this is my therapy now.
And I figure 2yrs. Worth of work with weather and life in general as I cannot work everyday on this.

[Lectro88]

Last pic of console was left out seems
try again

[Lectro88]

Here is the floor being extracted

[Lectro88]

Not sure why it’s showing 5 pics and only uploading 3 of 5

[Lectro88]

I made just a little headway yesterday on the demo and removal of foam.
You can see the water running from the last section of raised step in the floor.(yes the floor is cut loose and dislodged in place )still some cleaning to do. It’s all a mess....
stiill have float test to do but I wanted the wet foam gone or most of it anyway.
The exposed glass on the hull is rough.... a good bit of places where 24oz is not layed or bubbled up.
I will just for my OCD... be sanding these places flat and smoothing the unleveled areas.
I know it’s cosmetic and could be left but I don’t work that way.
This is not a production or boss breathing down my neck to hurry and get done. This is do it my way. Like someone cared.
I have a plan on stringers and will reveal that when I get a prototype completed.
Again I'm not pinching pennies or worrying about a little extra weight.
I’m adding enough extra in fuel tanks and engines to give designers/engineers a pre-heart attack. (Hence float test and raising deck height) I have to make sure my plan is doable with this platform.
The weather has been cold and rainy here this winter and I’m still working outside with no cover.
Well that’s my update.

not letting me upland pics. Got to mess with pic.

[Lectro88]

[Lectro88]

I wanted to ask for opinions on this.
Planning to add twin 60 under deck fuel tanks, I thought I had this planned, but may be rethinking.
Was going to shift stringers further apart and add a low profile stringer under tank for added support.
The tanks measure 60'' length 29'' wide 10'' height.
Going side by side creates 2 dif problems.

1st. The deck height gets tight quick getting closer to gunnel. (I know I was raising floor but maybe not that much.)

2nd. Going side by side and missing center or Keel stringer the width exceeds 60'' thats wider than the already huge console. Also could be pushing my twin rigging raceways/pipes out unless I shift these forward, and I am counter balancing twin 150 Johnson's. (everything is pivoting on float test) and raising transom and deck.
So side by side the tanks magicly measure 60''x60'' (basically)
My other option could be fore and aft. Then we are talking 10' feet front to back, and most certainly under seat mount for captain chairs,..
Thats missing mounting screws and reinforcement framing for twin seats. (that can hold large people) so cross layed flat 2x12 or flat layed twin side by side 2x10's married across stringers.
So just a lot of "stuff" all in one place to try and mesh together. so choices and opportunities abound. (and I need access)thats another obsticle and try to make hole in the floor look good.. ;*%$#@?! AND KEEP WATER OUT, I guess its better to give water a path to drain to bilge. Because keeping water out and the word boat is contradictory...
ALSO this access for tanks could if not careful, again bleed into seating mount.
Trying to pre-plan this and make things functional and look good.. AND be better than before.
Not a easy task.
Thanks in advance.

Oh.. going center creates a 3rd. problem.
The center/keel stringer lives there.
So cutting that down means "Beefing" it up in width to make up for notching it out for a lack of better words.
I really don't want to mess with center stringer.
So if you have a 10'' tall tank where a main stringer should be. and you are adding a extra 600 pounds in that area.
A very careful design is in need.
several 2x4 laminates or several 1x4's laminated with glass between.
I know most would not want to touch this with a 100 foot pole.
The thought of laying marine plywood 24''-30'' wide entire length on both sides along with the laminate stringer or several stringers.
Am I on the right thought for this.?
this is not the same as building a floor in house or tag along trailer. the boat is kinda supported in the water, its the beating and banging/flexing I need to allow for.
I may reach out to some boat design contacts that I have.
See, I said it was a mess.

[PoleLock]

Lectro....with all do respect, I would scale down your power and fuel capacity about one half or more. I think a single 150hp and 30 to 40 gallon fuel capacity would be a perfect fit for your Mako 19.

About the center stringer....Mako notched the stringer down and beefed up the sides of the cut out. See below images of the factory center stringer cut out to allow room to fit the fuel tank below deck.





Look forward to seeing your plans as you move forward with your project 19.

Eric

[Lectro88]

Lectro....with all do respect, I would scale down your power and fuel capacity about one half or more. I think a single 150hp and 30 to 40 gallon fuel capacity would be a perfect fit for your Mako 19.

About the center stringer....Mako notched the stringer down and beefed up the sides of the cut out. See below images of the factory center stringer cut out to allow room to fit the fuel tank below deck.





Look forward to seeing your plans as you move forward with your project 19.

Eric

Thanks Eric.
I did a miniature prototype stringer mock up today just playing around at the saws,.. and it got out of control.
I may have to switch over to phone to add pics.
The Idea was to eliminate any possible hard spots and ease the install process. and make my mind at ease that it was over-built and strong.

[Lectro88]

This was just a "see if this will work idea."
I pushed the limits and made a tight radius with little to no trouble.
The radius will be set to match any hull contour. This gives a wider footprint and the angle takes the place or cuts the amount of PB needed for tabbing.
Time and weight is not a concern. this 3-1/2" extra runner is a minimal addition.
After this piece dried it was Tough.
I think this will work well for what I was after.

[Lectro88]

Well after many failed attempts, I finally got the Cap separated from the Hull and set off.
Got 2 of my good neighbors to lend a hand, and with 3 of us... It Finally Surrendered.
Pics to follow shortly.
What a Mess. A massive amount of wet foam to remove.
Then there is plenty sanding, grinding, and cutting to do to get this hull where I want it to be before the build even begins.
Its going to be a while.
Need to get a cradle fabbed.
Kind of surprising how much flex you start getting when one component is removed.
I attempted to weigh the hull last night with slings rigged to rigging points, wasn't happening, too munch flexing without cap.
Then tried slings under hull and the inward flex was too great. Needed spreader board to prevent side hull collapse. It was dark, I was alone(and cold) and it just didn't happen last night. It was a chore setting off trailer. had to support 1 end then see/saw back and forth to pull trailer out and set on a couple 4x4's.
It was a lot of on and off excavator and many different rigging attempts to prevent damage.
I plan to track how much wet foam and monitor build back vrs original Wt.
For instance I will weigh cap, hull separately, then tally and know prior Wt. then Wt. after rigging, fuel, motor/s etc. (is my plan)
Work in Progress... with a long, long tunnel.