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restoring 228 cuddy

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  • restoring 228 cuddy

    So i grew up on a 224 Mako and have purchased a 228 model with a 250 hp Etech engine recently, Boat is going to need a bit of work ,already stripped the cabin, now started work on removing the fuel tank , transom seems solid and motor mounting bolts not dished in at all , but floor above tank was wet when i removed it and the foam around tank wet. Was wondering if anyone has info on the stringers in these boats maybe pics as i do see cracks in floor at front of fuel tank cover and corners are sunk in so this will need work , any help would be much appreciated i will post some pics

  • #2
    also looking for a cabin door or pics of one so i can make a new one, there was not when i bought the boat

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    • #3
      Have a set of orginal teak cabin doors off our Mako 250 which we replaced with starboard that you are welcome to use. I'll check on dimensions and let me know your opening dimension. Let me know at DMK one one six at comcast dot net. Not sure if there is still a guy on this site who makes replacement doors in teak or starboard.
      Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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      • #4
        Your tank has the same green coating that was on mine from the factory. Whatever that green stuff was it did a pretty good job at preventing the tank from failing for nearly 40 years. Zinc chromate I'm guessing.

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        • #5
          You got a log of work there that’s for sure. Plan it out and get a good plan to get it where you want it
          1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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          • #6
            I do have a bit of work to do to this boat as i will be customizing it for my needs. Plan is to take it to Florida and fish the Gulf with it. Does anyone know fuel tank manufactures around Pa/NJ/Del. area. also has anyone did any floor /stringer work on this model ? Looking for info for fuel coffin area and around this area before cutting , Thanks

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            • brando
              brando commented
              Editing a comment
              im in PA, I called shops in MD, PA, and NJ. Ended up going with sunshine marine tanks for many reasons. One they support this forum and more specifically Classic Mako's Funament, two-their customer service was great, three-they have done work in 100's of classic makos, four-value: I felt I was getting quality product that many on here have been happy with, five-shipped to my house for a reasonable price. price may not have been the cheapest but it was in line. also they helped me after the sale. You'll see lots of people who made their own, a "friend welded one up", poly tank discussion and list goes on. Youre gonna want something you know has been done right and will most likely outlast anything else on the boat, 100 some gallons of highly combustible fuel is not something you want to cut corners on.

          • #7
            I know there is a fabricator in south jersey that did the tank for my Mako 248 and they did a good job. Gave them the dimensions and they worked with the yard I have the boat at so that things went quite smoothly. I picked up the tank and we basically dropped it into the existing space and connected it and ran new lines. I’ll see if I can find them name of the fabricator... just checked... I believe they were called Atlantic Coastal Welding. I may have gotten their name of The Hull Truth or here some years back.
            Last edited by linearpower; 02-22-2020, 12:08 PM.

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            • #8
              I’m actually slowly restoring my 248... a few projects each year.... might wind up in a new boat before I finish dealing with the Mako but either way its been fun.

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              • #9
                Hello Takeoff29. Did you happen to record the dimensions of the fuel tank? I have to replace my fuel tank too. My boat is in a storage yard that is 25 miles from me and shrink wrapped. Also where did you source the tank? I found a place in NJ that makes tanks. Thank you! 1983 Mako 228
                Last edited by Cape Cod 228; 03-21-2020, 04:44 AM.

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                • #10
                  So it took awhile to remove all the fuel from my tank which was around 100 gals +. All the foam around the sides and front and back are down to the fiberglass are cleaned out. tried pulling tank from front first with no luck, next tried on corner and still no movement. Tried from back no movement its really stuck. I had used the mounts only to bend and tear the welds. Next i'm going to put a bar in thru the sending unit hole with a eye bolt thru it hopefully this will work. The fill line tube seems that it will be in way, there was a access plate i removed on gunnel but not much room to work in there. I was able to remove the foam from this area but not much room in there to work. Will update my progress

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                  • #11
                    so i was able to break my tank free today. here are some pics now started to remove the foam from around the fill and vent line. removed Removed the gunnel fill port. some of the foam is wet next to the fill line, i dug out back to fill pipe where it makes a bend. i am able to move the fill tube but can't pull this out and cannot get into the foam at side gunnel. Any help on removing the fill tube as this needs to be out to remove the tank ? Will i need to cut the floor for this?

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                    • #12
                      Cape Cod, I will get the tank dimensions after I get the tank out

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                      • #13
                        Maybe cut the fill and vent tubes flush with the edge of the coffin. Make nice clean cuts so that you can connect new hoses from there to the tank, assuming the tube lines are still good and you plan to use them. If they are not, just get the lines out of your way.

                        You may be able to pull the old fill line out thru the top of the gunwhale where you removed the fill fixture. Drill a hole through the fill hose (or tube line if you can get to it), drop a length of chain in the hose, insert a shaft through the hose and last link in the chain, and hook it up to your chain fall. After you make a cut down at the bend under the deck it might pull free.

                        Regarding the deck, you may need to remove a small area in order to bend and feed the new lines thru the under deck support holes. The only way I could get mine in was with a hole in the deck.

                        Hope this helps.
                        Ole Joe
                        Just floundering around
                        White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
                        1978 Mako 25

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                        • #14
                          Also, go here for tools and techniques used by "81Mako235" to remove the vent and fill lines. Bottom of page 1 and top of page 2.
                          https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...81-235-project
                          Ole Joe
                          Just floundering around
                          White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
                          1978 Mako 25

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                          • #15
                            Takeoff, thank you in advance for measuring the tank when you get it out!

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