No announcement yet.

Mako 236 Inboard

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    So my racor assembly has two valves coming into it and it kind of serves as the "tee". The two fuel lines run from the tanks forward to the racor. I made sure both lines were the same length and took the same route. The fuel draw from both tanks was fairly even. When I get to reinstalling the fuel system I'll get some pictures.


    • #32
      Yes, lI agree, the Racor housing serves the same purpose.
      Ole Joe
      Just floundering around
      White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
      1978 Mako 25


      • #33
        So we were finally able to prime the entire boat yesterday. There are still a few areas that need some filling and fairing but we had to make the leap and start spraying or it was never going to get done. Yesterday I wiped the whole boat down with awlwash surface prep and sprayed the entire boat using a harbor freight gun. It took a little time to set it up, but once I got it right it sprayed fine. Anyways, we used a lot more primer then I had originally anticipated. For one coat over the entire boat, I used about a gallon of mixed material. I guess the transfer efficiency of this Harbor Freight gun is pretty low so i'll have to order some more but nonetheless, it's nice to have the boat all one color.

        There were a couple of little side projects I finished before we started spraying. First, I removed about 3 inches of bottom paint down from the old waterline all the way around the hull. The previous owner had painted the water line higher and higher every time he painted which resulted in bottom paint going an extra 3 inches up the hull which I wanted to fix since we were already putting so much work in. It was a huge mess and a huge pain in the ass to remove even these few inches of bottom paint. I wish in hindsight I had just gotten the bottom soda blasted in the fall before we started. Secondly, I gassed in the "glovebox" hole in the center of the center console dash. I wanted to flush mount the GPS so i decided it would look much better if we filled in the hoe properly and painted it. I'll attach some pictures.

        Hopefully tonight I can fill a few spots and finish a little fairing and we'll get another coat of primer sprayed on Thursday. I'm hearing of a nationwide shortage of 545 so I hope I didn't screw myself by not ordering the correct quantity the first time!

        Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 98 - hull primed.JPG
Views:	270
Size:	126.6 KB
ID:	543668Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 103 - console primed.JPG
Views:	263
Size:	1.45 MB
ID:	543664Click image for larger version

Name:	image 97 - seats sprayed primer.JPG
Views:	272
Size:	1.68 MB
ID:	543665Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 99 - hatches primed.JPG
Views:	271
Size:	2.23 MB
ID:	543666Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 96 - awlgrip 545 cans.JPG
Views:	271
Size:	2.61 MB
ID:	543667
        Attached Files


        • #34
          Nice work. It’s such a good feeling when all the glass work and repairs are covered.
          Long Island, New York


          • #35
            Originally posted by flounder View Post
            What if you run a single line from the engine back to a tee that is set mid way between and above the tank pick up tubes?
            I should think the tee would equalize the pull out of the tanks.
            In addition, if it were mine, I'd put shut off valves on both sides of the tee in order to isolate one tank or the other in the event a tank is contaminated or fails. The valves could be attached to the tank pick-ups and accessible through deck plates which I want to have above the tank pick-up fixtures. The tee could be located at a high point under the deck which could be serviced through the hatch behind the console.
            I'm derailing this guy's thread now. Mine is here:

            My engine is an EFI Ford Raptor with no return line back to the tanks, so this idea won't work unfortunately.
            [img=left][/img=left][br]1975 23 Inboard [br]Chesapeake, VA[br]


            • #36
              So last night I did a lot of spot filling. You find a whole lot of spots that need to be repaired and filled once you prime the boat. I also took the windshield apart and took the glass out. I'll clean that up and get it awlgripped to match the topsides. I also have to order some replacement trim from Ocean Dynamics.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 105 - spot fairing.JPG
Views:	254
Size:	2.21 MB
ID:	543685Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 106 - windshield.JPG
Views:	255
Size:	2.20 MB
ID:	543686Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 107 - windshield.JPG
Views:	257
Size:	2.29 MB
ID:	543684
              Attached Files


              • #37
                Last night I sprayed the last coat of primer. I also got the recesses for the hinges cut into the deck and glassed. I need to get the stuffing box hose changed, seacock replaced, and both the rudder and shaft packing replaced. Then we can clean and paint the bilge and install the engine mounts.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 108 - hinge pad.JPG
Views:	240
Size:	1.76 MB
ID:	543775Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 110 - hinge pad.JPG
Views:	242
Size:	1.59 MB
ID:	543776Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 112- removing coupler.JPG
Views:	238
Size:	3.17 MB
ID:	543774
                Attached Files


                • #38
                  So the last coat of primer took longer to fully cure then expected, so yesterday we removed the seacock and the shaft coupler. The seacock we just wanted to replace for peace of mind with a new assembly. The original plywood backing plate was rotted as well so that will be replaced with a composite one. It was kind of strange because the seacock in the boat was 1", while all of the raw water piping was 1-1/4". So we'll be replacing the seacock with 1-1/4".

                  We removed the shaft coupling in order to blast and paint it, as well as install new set screws. I wanted to replace the stuffing box hose as it is most likely original. Again, like the seacock, these two items probably would have lasted another 40 years, but it can't hurt to replace them preemptively. We used a 3 arm puller to remove the coupler.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 112- removing coupler.JPG
Views:	250
Size:	3.17 MB
ID:	543832Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 115 - coupler removed 2.JPG
Views:	232
Size:	2.55 MB
ID:	543833Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 118 - seacock removed 2.JPG
Views:	230
Size:	3.87 MB
ID:	543834Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 116 - seacock removed.JPG
Views:	228
Size:	3.61 MB
ID:	543835Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 114 - coupler removed.JPG
Views:	227
Size:	3.83 MB
ID:	543836


                  • #39
                    So this weekend we finally painted the boat. Way behind schedule and we still have to repair a few spots, but I'm really happy with how the paint turned out. Topsides are tough. No easy way around that. I bought a devilbiss FLG4 FInishline which was broken out of the box. Trying not to lose another weekend, I ended up spraying it with a harbor freight gun. Once you get the gun set up correctly it doesn't spray too badly. The issue I was having was the thinning rations for the temperature I was working in. I couldn't find a happy medium where the paint would flow out correctly, but also wouldn't run. Anyways, attached are some pictures. I'm going to order the tanks today and some other little things.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 126 - hull paint 4.JPG
Views:	224
Size:	2.10 MB
ID:	543910Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 128 - hull paint 6.JPG
Views:	230
Size:	132.1 KB
ID:	543906Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 119 - topside paint 1.JPG
Views:	223
Size:	1.48 MB
ID:	543907Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 121 - topside paint 3.JPG
Views:	213
Size:	1.79 MB
ID:	543908
                    Attached Files


                    • #40
                      We got the nonskid most of the way done this weekend. We need to do one more coat of paint on top, but I'm going o have to wait for more paint to arrive. I ended up using original awlgrip for the nonskid because it is much harder and abrasion-resistant than awlcraft 2000. We spent a lot of time trying to figure out the best way to apply it with arguments on both sides for spraying it vs rolling it. In the end, laziness got the better of me and I didn't feel like masking off the entire boat to spray it again, so we rolled it. First we masked off all the nonskid areas, which took forever. Then we rolled a full wet coat of awlgrip in sections. Then, I sprinkled a mix of 50% course 50% fine griptex into the wet paint with a shaker. I thought I was putting too much grit on just to be safe, but in the end, most of it ended up sticking. If you go too thin with the grit, it will look blotchy. Finally, we are rolling two thinned coats of awlgrip over the grit to seal the grit in and finish the nonskid.

                      The bilge will get painted and the seacock will get finished up today, as well as the motor mounts. For motor mounts We are going with 6061-grade aluminum 4"x4"x3/8" angle with 1/4" backing plates, fastened with 5/8" bolts. It should be plenty robust.

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	Image 132 - nonskid 1.JPG Views:	25 Size:	1.58 MB ID:	544073Click image for larger version  Name:	Image 133 - nonskid 2.JPG Views:	24 Size:	1.64 MB ID:	544074Click image for larger version  Name:	Image 135 - nonskid 5.JPG Views:	24 Size:	2.06 MB ID:	544075Click image for larger version  Name:	Image 134 - nonskid 3.JPG Views:	24 Size:	1.92 MB ID:	544076
                      Last edited by trace elements; 04-15-2020, 08:38 AM.


                      • #41
                        I've got some 6 x 6 x .5" aluminum angle if you think that's not enough. I'm in Lakeland, FL. Not sure where you are but I thought you were near central FL.
                        '90 Tuppens 231 Polk City, FL


                        • trace elements
                          trace elements commented
                          Editing a comment
                          If this doesn't work out, I'll send you a message. Thanks!

                      • #42
                        So we finally finished up the nonskid and pulled the tape. It looks great I am really happy with how it turned out. Next, I was going to replace the oil pan on the engine myself, but a mechanic buddy's shop is a little slow right now, so we dropped the motor off this morning to get the pan replaced. Today hopefully we can get the motor mounts in and prep the bilge for installing the motor. My fuel tanks were also supposed to be ready on Monday, but the builder is running a little behind schedule, (understandably). So the big goal this weekend it to get the motor in and the rear bilge completely plumbed including the tanks, bilge pumps, trim tabs, and exhaust. We shall see!

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 137 - nonskid 7.JPG
Views:	177
Size:	1.83 MB
ID:	544126Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 136 - nonskid 6.JPG
Views:	192
Size:	1.54 MB
ID:	544125Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 138 - nonskid 8.JPG
Views:	177
Size:	2.16 MB
ID:	544127


                        • #43
                          This weekend we finally got the motor mounts and engine installed. Today I should finally pick up the tanks, get everything plumbed, and then rewiring can begin.

                          I am really happy with how the engine fits. I removed the lip inside the console surrounding the engine, in order to improve access. The engine is much more maintenance-friendly now, which was a major goal of this project.

                          The motor mounts worked out well, although they are WAY overkill. They are 4"x4"x3/8" 6061 Aluminum angle. Each mount has three (3) 3/8" bolts with backing plates passing through the stringer. To drill through the stringer, the holes were over-drilled, filled with epoxy, and then drilled to accommodate the bolt to protect the wood stringers. A liberal amount of PL5200 was also used to bond the mounts. The bilge was painted with TotalBoat white bilge paint. We'll see how it holds up.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 144 - engine mounts.JPG
Views:	151
Size:	2.36 MB
ID:	544304Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 145 - engine mounts 2.JPG
Views:	150
Size:	2.60 MB
ID:	544305Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 140 - lifting motor.JPG
Views:	158
Size:	2.80 MB
ID:	544306Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 141 - lifting motor 2.JPG
Views:	156
Size:	2.72 MB
ID:	544307Click image for larger version

Name:	Image 142 - engine set.JPG
Views:	180
Size:	2.17 MB
ID:	544303


                          • #44
                            Nice work. Going to be a beautiful boat. I’ve always wanted to get my hands on an old 236 inboard
                            1985 Mako 17 T/T Broken Arrow [br]Jake Dodge[br]Maysville, GA[br][br]Project thread


                            • #45
                              The fuel tanks are in and a lot of the fittings have been installed, namely the exhaust and fuel fittings. I want to get the boat watertight so I can float her this weekend to get the new static water line for the boot stripe.Click image for larger version  Name:	96F1BF6F-B31A-4EC8-B8DF-E2FDEBCA5E57.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	1.96 MB ID:	544512Click image for larger version  Name:	62B51636-6BA0-4F23-92BA-53A96B0C2FB0.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.29 MB ID:	544513
                              Click image for larger version

Name:	image_1391.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	147.0 KB
ID:	544510Click image for larger version

Name:	image_1392.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	1.72 MB
ID:	544511