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Mako 236 Inboard

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  • #31
    So my racor assembly has two valves coming into it and it kind of serves as the "tee". The two fuel lines run from the tanks forward to the racor. I made sure both lines were the same length and took the same route. The fuel draw from both tanks was fairly even. When I get to reinstalling the fuel system I'll get some pictures.

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    • #32
      Yes, lI agree, the Racor housing serves the same purpose.
      Ole Joe
      Just floundering around
      White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
      1978 Mako 25

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      • #33
        So we were finally able to prime the entire boat yesterday. There are still a few areas that need some filling and fairing but we had to make the leap and start spraying or it was never going to get done. Yesterday I wiped the whole boat down with awlwash surface prep and sprayed the entire boat using a harbor freight gun. It took a little time to set it up, but once I got it right it sprayed fine. Anyways, we used a lot more primer then I had originally anticipated. For one coat over the entire boat, I used about a gallon of mixed material. I guess the transfer efficiency of this Harbor Freight gun is pretty low so i'll have to order some more but nonetheless, it's nice to have the boat all one color.

        There were a couple of little side projects I finished before we started spraying. First, I removed about 3 inches of bottom paint down from the old waterline all the way around the hull. The previous owner had painted the water line higher and higher every time he painted which resulted in bottom paint going an extra 3 inches up the hull which I wanted to fix since we were already putting so much work in. It was a huge mess and a huge pain in the ass to remove even these few inches of bottom paint. I wish in hindsight I had just gotten the bottom soda blasted in the fall before we started. Secondly, I gassed in the "glovebox" hole in the center of the center console dash. I wanted to flush mount the GPS so i decided it would look much better if we filled in the hoe properly and painted it. I'll attach some pictures.

        Hopefully tonight I can fill a few spots and finish a little fairing and we'll get another coat of primer sprayed on Thursday. I'm hearing of a nationwide shortage of 545 so I hope I didn't screw myself by not ordering the correct quantity the first time!

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        • #34
          Nice work. It’s such a good feeling when all the glass work and repairs are covered.
          Long Island, New York

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          • #35
            Originally posted by flounder View Post
            What if you run a single line from the engine back to a tee that is set mid way between and above the tank pick up tubes?
            I should think the tee would equalize the pull out of the tanks.
            In addition, if it were mine, I'd put shut off valves on both sides of the tee in order to isolate one tank or the other in the event a tank is contaminated or fails. The valves could be attached to the tank pick-ups and accessible through deck plates which I want to have above the tank pick-up fixtures. The tee could be located at a high point under the deck which could be serviced through the hatch behind the console.
            I'm derailing this guy's thread now. Mine is here: https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...sing-trim-tabs

            My engine is an EFI Ford Raptor with no return line back to the tanks, so this idea won't work unfortunately.
            [img=left]https://i.imgur.com/b1nW04t.jpg?2[/img=left][br]1975 23 Inboard [br]Chesapeake, VA[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=59930

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            • #36
              So last night I did a lot of spot filling. You find a whole lot of spots that need to be repaired and filled once you prime the boat. I also took the windshield apart and took the glass out. I'll clean that up and get it awlgripped to match the topsides. I also have to order some replacement trim from Ocean Dynamics.

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              • #37
                Last night I sprayed the last coat of primer. I also got the recesses for the hinges cut into the deck and glassed. I need to get the stuffing box hose changed, seacock replaced, and both the rudder and shaft packing replaced. Then we can clean and paint the bilge and install the engine mounts.

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                • #38
                  So the last coat of primer took longer to fully cure then expected, so yesterday we removed the seacock and the shaft coupler. The seacock we just wanted to replace for peace of mind with a new assembly. The original plywood backing plate was rotted as well so that will be replaced with a composite one. It was kind of strange because the seacock in the boat was 1", while all of the raw water piping was 1-1/4". So we'll be replacing the seacock with 1-1/4".

                  We removed the shaft coupling in order to blast and paint it, as well as install new set screws. I wanted to replace the stuffing box hose as it is most likely original. Again, like the seacock, these two items probably would have lasted another 40 years, but it can't hurt to replace them preemptively. We used a 3 arm puller to remove the coupler.

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