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1969/70 Mako 19 Project

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  • #16
    Well, I got basically a whole day to work on the project today.

    Started by shaping and glassing in the new bow block.

    Got a nice thickened epoxy bed on it and smooshed it into place, then cloth over the top.

    Looks like it squished in nicely.

    *I forgot to take a pic of the block before bedding it, but it was a solid piece of Oak shaped to fit snugly inside the bow.

    Basically 90 degrees with some flats on it for the washers and plate to bear against on the backside.

    I then shot the first coat of paint on the console, and it came out great! (IMO)

    I used the #43430 Harbor Freight purple spray gun and thinned the paint about 8%

    It was my first time shooting a finish coat with it and I am very happy with how the gun did. (I have used modified HF guns for primer before, but not finish coat)

    Then we got busy sanding the skirting and hull, hoping to shoot primer by the end of the afternoon.

    After finishing the sanding, and de-waxing solvent washdown, we were able to get the primer on.

    The primer was thinned 5% and it worked flawlessly in my modified gun (spray tip opened up)

    Now I just need to get the sanding and second finish coat sprayed on the console so I can start putting that back together.

    SO, in other news, my Stryker T-top arrived. I actually let it sit in the boxes for 3 days, and then one day while I was waiting for some fairing compound to kick, I opened them up.

    Glad I didn't wait until the last minute before I was ready to install it, as one of tubes on the top frames was over-bent and wouldn't go together.

    There was also a tool mark like a grinder or cutoff wheel hit it too, so I contacted Stryker, and they had me send in pics.

    There was no damage to the packaging, so I am sure they will take care of it.

    I was pretty bummed, as I didn't even get to mock it up... =(

    That's all for now, hopefully I can get another evening or two this week to try and get more painting done.
    Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


    • #17
      I received a reply back from Stryker today, and they are sending replacement T-top section out asap.

      I received a nice email apologizing for the defective part and explaining the parts would go out asap.

      Before I finished typing this reply, I got an email with a tracking number already.

      That's good customer service!
      Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


      • #18
        looking great! you are making fast progress, Keep it up


        • #19
          Thanks, it has been a crazy summer, but I am managing to get some time on the project.

          A few days ago, I got the first topcoat sprayed, and shoved the boat in the building as rain was forecast for the evening.

          It came out ok, but it didn't lay out as good as the console did.

          Next project, going to be using grey primer, as I had a tough time seeing if I was getting good even coverage. I decided that I am going to roll and tip the second coat.

          Today I finalized my plan for the waterline bootstripe and masked everything off.

          I shot the hull with Platinum Gray Pettit EZPoxy thinned 10% with pettit spraying thinner

          The first side was going good, but I got toward the bow I started getting some solvent popping or something, (tiny bubbles) so I figured if you can roll and tip this stuff, that I could spray and tip it... so I did, and the little pops laid right down and flowed out. (thankfully) I also had two small runs, which I used the brush to smooth out.

          The opposite side I went a little lighter and moved the gun back a few more centimeters and that side came out great, no runs or pops.

          While that was drying, I got the deck taped up in prep for the non-skid.

          I used an old tape roll to get nice radius' on the tape corners.

          I rolled on the seagloss non-skid with a light gray, but we'll have to see if it is still too dark for our Michigan summer sun. (I am sure it will be fine) [8D]

          I can always do the next coat with some white mixed in, but for now it'll do.

          {probably ripping out the deck in Phase II anyways.

          It is starting to look like something now!
          Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


          • #20
            Small update from today.

            Sanded down the hull and got coat #2 sprayed.

            After it dried, I just had to set the console in place, and test fit the new fuel tank.

            I ordered a 30 gallon tank (pretty much the largest I can fit back under the console)

            Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


            • #21
              looking good man
              Justin[br]1976 MAKO 19[br]BALTIMORE,MD[br]


              • #22

                So, now I have to mount all of the cleats, and bert's track system (convertible to step pads)

                I am going to Thru-BOLT them, instead of the previously used wood screw method.

                How much of a pain is it going to be to burrow laterally thru foam in the sides/skirting after cutting an access hole? any other options been used? stainless toggles? (I know that won't work for the cleats, but maybe for the track system

                Any tips or tricks? I really don't want to drill 8 or 10, 4" access holes all down the skirting.


                Thanks in advance.



                This is the track of which I speak...

                Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


                • #23
                  Well, I've been busy and managed to knock off a pretty good list of things in putting the boat back together.

                  fuel tank mounted & plumbed

                  Steering and shift cables connected, and the console secured.

                  Started sorting out all the wiring harnesses

                  Taping off the boot stripe, preparing to paint.

                  Then I painted the boot stripe, and finished installing the T-top. I had good balsa core in the floor, but didn't trust that alone to stand up to the abuse I foresee the top getting from running, bouncing waves and being used as a handhold for boarding, so I used 4 stainless toggler bolts (one in each leg, along with the other 3 screws and 4000 adhesive/sealant, and it is rock solid.

                  After that I commenced with the rear cleat and track system.

                  I bored two 4.5" holes in the skirting that would allow servicing the cleat and the track bolts. I dug out a core of foam and picked my way to the backing block locations.

                  I did get everything backed and bolted, although I will mention if you mount things like that, be aware that the seamline of the two molds come together and protrudes inboard, so your most outboard holes/bolts are kind of landing on the flange. It was do-able, but it made it a little tricky to get nuts started with fat fingers in a small space.

                  I have plates that will cover the holes and I plan to seal them with 4000 since I will likely not need to get back in there anytime soon.

                  I am holding off on sealing up the port side yet, as I intend on using one access to route the bilge pump hose.

                  Hoping to splash this week!

                  Of course there will still be some tiny projects to finish up yet, but the boat is just about ready to go in time for the fall salmon.

                  ...Next upload:

                  Canvas top, all around light and VHF antenna mounting

                  Battery boxes and switch mounting.

                  Custom fish box covers

                  Rub-rail reinstall
                  Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


                  • #24
                    Got a bunch of little projects knocked off the list and have been using the boat quite regularly on Lake Michigan.

                    Here are some of the pics.

                    At the dock, immediately after launch

                    Splashguards installed, Port side is removable for easier swim access

                    Seats Installed

                    Swim Ladder installed

                    Dive time!

                    Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


                    • #25
                      Nice resto I like that color.

                      I thought one of the ways to gauge the year on the older 19's was if they had a keel along the bottom edge of the hull? Is that still true?


                      • #26

                        I think that applies to the original 40 only (re:keel)
                        Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


                        • #27

                          Originally posted by mikesab


                          I think that applies to the original 40 only (re:keel)

                          10-4 I thought that was the only way to ID a true '69. So the keel just means original 40. Thanks. Good luck with the new ride.


                          • #28
                            Looks sweet!!! I love the stryker t-top, I am looking to get one for my boat, how much shade are you getting? You really whipped this thing into shape!!!


                            • #29

                              The shade is surprisingly adequate. If the top was wider, I think it would make it more of a pain getting in the boat from a higher dock, as you'd have to duck under it.

                              I don't like the 5 rod holder setup however. They are too close together and are constantly tangling the poles together when running out to fish (I leave spoons/lures rigged)

                              I'm going to see if they'll swap me for 4 or 5 individual holders, so i can spread them out.

                              Other than that I love it
                              Mako 19[br]Port Sheldon, Michigan


                              • #30

                                Have to say I would not have picked that color just by choice, however after seeing it on the boat it looks awesome. Great job on the restoration. You will be happy that you put the splash guards on the transom. once again great looking 19
                                [br]Mike[br]Maryland[br]1973-Mako19[br]1978-Mako25 (project)[br]1998- Pursuit 2860[br]My 19\' Mako build thread