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1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog - bottom time

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  • #31
    I borrowed an engine stand from mist-Oprtuna-t but couldn't feel comfortable with my engine mounted on it, especially with it trimmed up and no steering, so the order of the day was to build an engine stand and then finish up the de-rig.

    Here is the motor on Matt's engine stand, with the engine lift holding it up....just in case.



    On the new stand. Conlin helped me move it to the boat so I could hook up power and lower the trim. This was quite a fiasco since I had to lift the motor up with the stand but it wouldn't clear the garage door so I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the lower unit toward the stand, lower the motor, etc.



    Marked my cuts four inches inside. Looks like it's pretty far in, but pictures look different. Thoughts? I think this is what Mackey, Chuck and Delgado measured.





    This is the biggest project I've ever done so any opinions, comments, etc are welcome!
    1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
    1985 Mako 20c - sold
    Fort Walton Beach, FL
    https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...og-bottom-time

    Comment


    • #32
      I think 4 inches in may be little much I was thinking 2 inches but as wet as your core is it may be no big deal.As long as you can get core out from behind the lip then it is okay.Remember always better to cut like you did then cut too much off.As long as you got something to tab to is all its for

      Comment


      • #33
        Removing the outer skin is what I did on the 224, when replacing the core with Coosa. I left ~3", and found than an electric chainsaw was the cat's meow for removing the coring from the gap.[]

        IMHO, you don't want any less than 2", as you'll want to feather the joint to get a solid joint for the outer skin re-install.

        When you indicated you were going to add splashguards. I assume this is going to be part of the pour like Chuck did?

        PS: Does your motor trim not have the bleed screw to allow you to manually trim the motor in the event of a trim cyl failure?
        Working for a livin\' is HIGHLY Over-Rated...[][br]

        Comment


        • #34
          Removing the outer skin is what I did on the 224, when replacing the core with Coosa. I left ~3", and found than an electric chainsaw was the cat's meow for removing the coring from the gap.[]

          IMHO, you don't want any less than 2", as you'll want to feather the joint to get a solid joint for the outer skin re-install.

          When you indicated you were going to add splashguards. I assume this is going to be part of the pour like Chuck did?

          PS: Does your motor trim not have the bleed screw to allow you to manually trim the motor in the event of a trim cyl failure?
          Working for a livin\' is HIGHLY Over-Rated...[][br]

          Comment


          • #35
            Get'r done Sailor! After the first cut you're off and running. If you're like me the endless thinking, planning, questioning, is the killer, but once you commit and get started things just start rolling. Pleanty of experts, advice, and pictures to guide us here even makes it less intimidating....sometimes even makes it look easy (that's the part that scares me sometimes[]).

            Time to get itchy!!!

            -John
            Weir Mako 21[br]1985 21B[br]Project 21B [br] http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=32089[br]Project 25 Contender [br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=55759 [br][br]

            Comment


            • #36
              Get'r done Sailor! After the first cut you're off and running. If you're like me the endless thinking, planning, questioning, is the killer, but once you commit and get started things just start rolling. Pleanty of experts, advice, and pictures to guide us here even makes it less intimidating....sometimes even makes it look easy (that's the part that scares me sometimes[]).

              Time to get itchy!!!

              -John
              Weir Mako 21[br]1985 21B[br]Project 21B [br] http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=32089[br]Project 25 Contender [br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=55759 [br][br]

              Comment


              • #37
                quote:


                Originally posted by ob1jeeper


                Removing the outer skin is what I did on the 224, when replacing the core with Coosa. I left ~3", and found than an electric chainsaw was the cat's meow for removing the coring from the gap.[]


                IMHO, you don't want any less than 2", as you'll want to feather the joint to get a solid joint for the outer skin re-install.

                When you indicated you were going to add splashguards. I assume this is going to be part of the pour like Chuck did?

                PS: Does your motor trim not have the bleed screw to allow you to manually trim the motor in the event of a trim cyl failure?


                I plan on using the electric chainsaw until it's clean or the saw breaks! Going back and looking at other projects, three inches seems to be a good amount to leave for the lip around the cut out.

                I will be adding splashguards very similar to what Chuck and MrDelgado did on their rebuilds. I'd love to go full transom, but it's not in the cards yet.

                I couldn't get the trim bleed screw to turn with the motor hanging from the hoist. Believe me I tried. [}]
                1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                1985 Mako 20c - sold
                Fort Walton Beach, FL
                https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...og-bottom-time

                Comment


                • #38
                  quote:


                  Originally posted by weir mako 21


                  Get'r done Sailor! After the first cut you're off and running. If you're like me the endless thinking, planning, questioning, is the killer, but once you commit and get started things just start rolling. Pleanty of experts, advice, and pictures to guide us here even makes it less intimidating....sometimes even makes it look easy (that's the part that scares me sometimes[]).


                  Time to get itchy!!!

                  -John


                  I'm ready to start cutting and would love to just take off for the week and get this thing done!
                  1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                  1985 Mako 20c - sold
                  Fort Walton Beach, FL
                  https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...og-bottom-time

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Yeah those stands are marginal at best. But they held the etecs for about 8 months, being pushed around a garage who knows how many times.

                    I used a couple rachet straps attached to the lower unit to keep the motors from turning.

                    Your stand looks a touch more legit []
                    Ocean Springs, Ms[br]\'76 25\'[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45623[br]

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Yeah those stands are marginal at best. But they held the etecs for about 8 months, being pushed around a garage who knows how many times.

                      I used a couple rachet straps attached to the lower unit to keep the motors from turning.

                      Your stand looks a touch more legit []
                      Ocean Springs, Ms[br]\'76 25\'[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45623[br]

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        So you're going to tackle the transom!?! Hopefully that core has a lot of rot and the outer skin just peels off like mine did.

                        I like the 4" cut line. I used a chainsaw to get in that 4"gap, scored the core in the middle and then chisseled the rest out. This way it saves your chain.

                        This sure would be a good time to raise the transom 6" and add splash guards. Go up 6 and you won't even need a full transom. Not a drop of water comes over mine...
                        [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          So you're going to tackle the transom!?! Hopefully that core has a lot of rot and the outer skin just peels off like mine did.

                          I like the 4" cut line. I used a chainsaw to get in that 4"gap, scored the core in the middle and then chisseled the rest out. This way it saves your chain.

                          This sure would be a good time to raise the transom 6" and add splash guards. Go up 6 and you won't even need a full transom. Not a drop of water comes over mine...
                          [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            I've recently seen a F300 with 30" shaft over on the hull truth

                            Talk about a sick setup!!!

                            Man it's fun spending other folks money[]
                            Ocean Springs, Ms[br]\'76 25\'[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45623[br]

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Steve,

                              Nice to see this project start and I've been waiting for it. Lots of possibilities on the many directions this could go and I like the Nidacore decision. If you are set on keeping the 25" motor at least go with a notch transom. I raised mine to 30"and then cut down to 25" when I found a e-Tec deal that could not be refused. Sometimes you decide on the fly and the end game changes, but I'm happy so far.

                              If you need any help on walking through the process or just want to talk to keep your sanity before making the most difficult cut - also known as the first cut, I'd be happy to share what I know from my project and would be happy to discuss. Just let me know.

                              D-
                              Current Mqko - 1990 Mako 211 w/2006 250 E-TEC. http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6226. [br]- Previous Makos 1987 20C, 1979 23\' IB, 1970s 17 Angler

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                quote:


                                Originally posted by dtmackey


                                Steve,


                                Nice to see this project start and I've been waiting for it. Lots of possibilities on the many directions this could go and I like the Nidacore decision. If you are set on keeping the 25" motor at least go with a notch transom. I raised mine to 30"and then cut down to 25" when I found a e-Tec deal that could not be refused. Sometimes you decide on the fly and the end game changes, but I'm happy so far.

                                If you need any help on walking through the process or just want to talk to keep your sanity before making the most difficult cut - also known as the first cut, I'd be happy to share what I know from my project and would be happy to discuss. Just let me know.

                                D-


                                Thanks Dave - I appreciate the help and will be taking you up on the offer. I definitely plan on a notched transom and wish I had a 30" motor right now so I the entire motor would be out of the water when it's in the slip. Right now, I can raise the motor all the way up and the lower will stay out of the water as well as the top of the trim rams, but I sure would like the rest of it out as well.

                                I'm planning on cutting it open this weekend and removing the core. I pulled the drain plug out last night and even though it had a split in the tube, the wood surrounding it was surprisingly solid. All left to do before cutting is to remove the three thru hull fittings and the cutting will begin!
                                quote:


                                Originally posted by mist-oprtuna-t

                                I've recently seen a F300 with 30" shaft over on the hull truth



                                Matt - that would be a sweet setup and definitely the long term goal. A bracket, full transom and single 300hp four stroke would be very sweet indeed. [8D]
                                1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                                1985 Mako 20c - sold
                                Fort Walton Beach, FL
                                https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...og-bottom-time

                                Comment

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