Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1972 mako

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1972 mako

    hi guys I'm new here and fixin to post quite a few pics later on go my 1972 mako restoration thanks to all the post here I've been reading . I would have already posted pics but I had problems with my computer now I have an iPhone.
    Georgia boy

  • #2
    this is after I have glassed the transom in and glassed around the edges with rolled up Matt and resin. this is the contraption I came up with to apply preasure to the bottom of the transom as I was glassing it in. this is the contraption I made to clap from the outside of the transom. can anyone tell me what this is it came out of my transom on top of it and around the sides it looks like some kind of putty it's breaks easy with a poke with a screwdriver . I'm sure I will have to have some of whatever it is to level out my transom when it's put back together any help identifying this substance is greatly appreciated .
    Georgia boy

    Comment


    • #3
      What part of Georgia? I am redoing a 1968 19 just getting started, I'm in Douglas. My link if interested in checking it out http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=41776

      And I am not sure what that is in the pic could be bedding but not sure.
      Douglas, GA[br]Boat= A whole in the water you throw money in.

      Comment


      • #4
        I am from dalton north of Atlanta. I split my hull instead of cutting out the floor and whole transom. Thought it might be easy but it was pretty time consuming and took a lot of hoist but after the hull was split its been smooth sailing.
        Georgia boy

        Comment


        • #5
          I am posting from my iPhone not sure why it post the way it does any one else use there iPhone that has any insight on this would be helpfull.
          Georgia boy

          Comment


          • #6
            I don't post from an iphone, but maybe try adding a return or space between the pictures and your text and it may stop wrapping around. []
            1998 Angler 220B - 1998 Merc 225 EFI[br][br]Gone but not forgotten...[br]1973 Mako 20\'

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks I'll give it a try now.



              This is about 400 lbs of wet foam.
              Georgia boy

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm fixin to glass in my transom can someone tell me if 18 oz woven roven is heavy enough to do the job I've seen 18 oz. 24 oz. and 40 oz on JTD. and they all say for transom repair and boat building .
                Georgia boy

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've seen a lot of guys using 1808 biaxial on their transoms on this site.

                  After working with 1708, I like how it conforms when you are working with it. Hopefully others will chime in.
                  1998 Angler 220B - 1998 Merc 225 EFI[br][br]Gone but not forgotten...[br]1973 Mako 20\'

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    After laying 60yds and working on my 30th gal of resin for my project, I would not buy and lay roving unless I got it in 2408 or 1808, or the lighter 45/45 1708, which is all already bound to the mat.

                    Roving doesn't cut well, or lay well for the inexperienced, it leaves strands and unravels when you handle it, and has to be on top of mat so you do double the work. I've got 20 or so yards if you want to buy it.
                    Andy[br]Wilmington, NC[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39991[br]2012 Hydra Sports 3000VX[br]1997 Mako 263 (SOLD)[br]1976 Mako 20 (SOLD)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tip: If you work with roven, lay wide blue tape before you cut with scissors. Cut down the middle. During layup, you pull the tap off. Helps with the unraveling.

                      Also, before you remove your stringers, if you do, block up the two stern quarters and the bow. Keep it off of the bunks of your trailer or you might run into twisting problems with the hull when you re-glass everything up.
                      1982 17\' Mitchell gone[br]1985 Mako 21 had 7 years[br]1951 15\' Critchfield first rebuild 1986 with a 35hp tiller gone [br]1992 17 Maverick rebuilt in 2000 still have[br]1973 Mako 20 currently rebuilding[br]South Florida, Don[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?Topic_ID=37475[br]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the tape tip. Is that paint trim tape ?


                        Georgia boy

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yes. That what I used to use. With the stiched material, you don't need it.
                          1982 17\' Mitchell gone[br]1985 Mako 21 had 7 years[br]1951 15\' Critchfield first rebuild 1986 with a 35hp tiller gone [br]1992 17 Maverick rebuilt in 2000 still have[br]1973 Mako 20 currently rebuilding[br]South Florida, Don[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?Topic_ID=37475[br]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have a James town dist. Catalog that I've been ordering from where can I find this 1808-1708 and stitched material that your talking about.I'm pretty new to this fiberglass work so far I have glassed my plywood together and glassed it into the boat and glassed my stringers back to my plywood transom .now I just placed a order for some woven roven at JTD.yesterday to finish my glassing of the stringers and transom together.so far I have used mat to glass ply wood together and cloth to glass it to the boat and cloth to glass stringers to plywood now I'm going to use roven to glass it all together to the boat . Does this sound right?
                            Georgia boy

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              LBI fiberglass. Infinity Composites, and the best price for most from U.S Composites.

                              No problem with your plan, roving is strong enough, just be sure to use mat with each layer. Also let the resin soak in and try not to force it through the weave. I like the tape idea for cutting the cloth.
                              Andy[br]Wilmington, NC[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39991[br]2012 Hydra Sports 3000VX[br]1997 Mako 263 (SOLD)[br]1976 Mako 20 (SOLD)

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X