Anybody ''need a poor'' ole 19?

[PoleLock]

Sorry guys, I'm not talking about giving my 19 away...[:0]

Rather... the time has come to replace the almost 40 yr old transom on this ole 19.

As in the project topic, I am going to use the Nida-Bond pourable transom compound from Nida Core products. I have done some research on this product and others as well, and feel this will be my best option.

I have also read several transom rebuild project threads here on CM and have determined that if properly prepared and installed this is a very reliable choice when rebuilding a transom. Please allow me to send a sincere thank you to all the CM members for sharing your projects.[)] Being a new member here has helped me tremendously while I bring this ole 19 back to life.

Now onto the early stages of this project.

Here is the skin removal lay out. I left a good 4" lip all the way around.





I also made a template of the motor and deck drain holes for the future.



Outside skin cut and removed. I used my angle grinder w/ cut off disk and a steady hand for all my cuts.





I have to tell you how surprised I was with the overall condition of the core. It was damp in most areas as you can see, but not totally rotted as one might expect from a near 40 yr old core.







The real fun started when it was time to remove the original plywood core. I have all the usual tools necessary to attack an old transom core [hammers, wood chisels, pry bars, chainsaw and of course some skin off my knuckles]...[B)] I made good progress yesterday and will post up more pics as I move forward.

As always, your suggestions, comments and recommendations are welcomed.

thanks...Eric

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[mrdelgado]

Looks like you've done your research []

Nice job with the template and prep work. A circular saw works well for scoring lines so you can chissel small sections of the core out. Just set your depth accordingly.

My project 25 may give you some helpful tips. It starts on page 6

[njfreediver]

If I were you, when you put the new transom in, close it in to the motor as tight as possible. Originally my 19 was wet as can be when it was choppy out and someone was standing in the back. closing the transom in made a HUGE difference

[PoleLock]

quote:

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mrdelgado Posted - 11/07/2011 : 10:58:30

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My project 25 may give you some helpful tips. It starts on page 6

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md, your project thread is very well detailed. I have and will continue to reference it as I move forward. Thanks

quote:

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njfreediver Posted - 11/07/2011 : 11:05:00

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If I were you, when you put the new transom in, close it in to the motor as tight as possible.

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njfd, you are right on point. Building up the transom to the motor is definitely in the plans.
Progress report:

Well, all the core has been removed. Looks like Mako used two 3/4" pieces of ply across the transom from top to bottom. I used the chainsaw to cut sections and then pried and pulled the pieces out.

Once all the core was out, I cleaned the inside and outside skins. The angle grinder with a 36 grit wheel made quick work to smooth things out.

Here's the core bagged up, ready for the curb on trash night. The three bags weight in at 82lbs.















Stringer ends look pretty good.









Next up, I will get into that lip area and clean out any remaining material from the old core.

Waiting on materials and planning my next step.

thanks...Eric

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[dahlbebop]

Nice clean work man! Thats the way it should be.[] Glad to see you using nida pour, good stuff. Good luck on the rest of the project.

[dahlbebop]

Nice clean work man! Thats the way it should be.[] Glad to see you using nida pour, good stuff. Good luck on the rest of the project.

[bjat1685]

WOW thats awesome! Keep the pics coming! I really appreciate it since I am going to have to do my 22' the same way!

[bjat1685]

WOW thats awesome! Keep the pics coming! I really appreciate it since I am going to have to do my 22' the same way!

[ChuckB]

Nice clean work. You have made real good progress. Cleaning that lip area is a pain in the [email protected]#, but for a good solid bond you need that area as clean as rest of transom. Good luck and continue updating progress.

[njfreediver]

Looks good so far! another piece of advice I would give, and I really wish I did it on my 19, is if you redo the floor, raise it an inch. my scuppers sit right at the water line and I've got to keep plugs in them if I'm standing back there.

where in south Jersey are you?

[PoleLock]

njfd,

Thank you for the helpful advice. I'm always open for any suggestions, comments and recommendations.

I live in Winslow Twp. Camden County. Do most of my boating in Brigantine on south to Ocean City and also the Wildwoods and Delaware bay at times.

Where are you? Do you still have your 19?

[njfreediver]

I sure do. I've been loading it up with stripers the past few days. I'm out of barnegat inlet. If you ever wanna check it out I'll probably be bringing it to viking yachts in new gretna soon for the winter. just let me know

[mrdelgado]

Crazy clean work Eric!

Think you'll pour this weekend? Odd for November, but Temps look good for a pour!!![]

[Triplecrownnc]

quote:

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Originally posted by mrdelgado


Crazy clean work Eric!

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Isn't that the truth, very nice.

[PoleLock]

First things first, thanks for all your comments, please keep em commin. I'm new to the club here, so I'm all ears...umm...our should I say eyes when I read your replies..[]

quote:

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ChuckB Posted - 11/09/2011 : 09:11:34

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Cleaning that lip area is a pain in the [email protected]#, but for a good solid bond you need that area as clean as rest of transom.

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Chuck, you got that right, cleaning the inner and outter lip area was the most time consuming part of the entire core removal...not to mention the biggest PITA so far.
I know this is an important step in the preparation so I made sure every surface was cleaned down to the glass.

I followed dtmackey's trick, and reversed a 36 grit sanding pad on my angle grinder. Worked like a charm cleaning the inner lip on the outside skin. I also used a die grinder with an 1 1/2" course wire wheel that helped to reach into the other tight areas the angle grinder couldn't reach.



Next step: I'll start filling and glassing any holes and crevices that I see.

Question, should I also lay glass along these edges?





One more, the stringer ends are in pretty good shape. Should I glass them over or should they get bored out some to allow the Nida Bond to flow into during the pour.





I will continue to post my progress. As always, your suggestions, comments and recommendations are welcomed.

Thanks...Eric

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