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20' Bilge and Battery Placement

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  • 20' Bilge and Battery Placement

    I have seen several comments regarding the hatchpanel for the bilge in the transom of 20 footers. I am not too fond of the design here, has anyone had any problems with it? It doesn't seem like it would be too dry. Anyway, what are the thoughts about securing this cover, what have others done? One thought was to replace the cover with a Lewmar type hatch cover and add vents?

    In addition, I am thinking the baterries would be better served under the console rather than in the bilge. Thoughts?? To move them should I be upgrading the wire gauges to accomodate the distance and prevent resistance?

    HCD

  • #2
    QUOTE:

    In addition, I am thinking the baterries would be better served under the console rather than in the bilge. Thoughts?? To move them should I be upgrading the wire gauges to accomodate the distance and prevent resistance?

    YES!

    As to the hatch. It's a very poor design. Forget that other hatch manufacture. Put a Armstrong hatch in that spot. Your life could depend on it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks warthog,

      I am not really sure what Mako was thinking with these hatches, but I can't imagine this was too popular. Anyway, thanks for the advice on the Armstrong mfg. I did a some offshore sailboat racing and have some interesting stories regarding hatches and seacock seaworthiness.

      Any suggestions for venting?

      HD

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      • #4
        I have a problem with my hatch and water in the boat. On top of that, I had screws missing in the hatch as well which allowed more water into the boat. On a recent offshore trip, the constant water soured the wiring to the bilge pump, hence a trip cut short, and a dash for the dock. Got the pump rewired, new screws, but I'm looking into the new hatch (Armstrong). Has anyone installed a new hatch? If so, how is it performing? Thanks for info.
        1988 Mako 201, \'95 Yam 200 SWS, Fl

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        • #5
          You will have to do some modifacation to get the Armstrong hatch to work.

          Be sure to fill in those rigging holes too. My boat went down with the owner before me and one guy DIED of hypertherma.[]

          Is that enough reason to fix it?

          Comment


          • #6
            Warthog,

            Any suggestions for a retailer for the Armstrong hatches?

            I can pickup for next to nothing a Bowmar watertight inpsection hatch which will require minimal modifications. It in not one of the slam hatches but has two clamp handles that mount flush. It seems pretty tough. Any thoughts?

            To add to the stories: My buddy was on a sailboat fresh out of the yard from a refitting. They moved the through-the-hull for the bilge on the stern overhang, but put it too close to the waterline. When moving at a good clip, it turned out it was submerged. Anyway, they were all sleeping when the bilge started, when it stopped it turned into a siphon and quickly flooded the cabin. It happend so quick that it shorted out the alarms, they woke up with 16 inches on the floor and struggling. Almost sank the boat...fortunatley all they ended up with was a few shorts, a good soaking and some sore muscles.

            Comment


            • #7
              I haven't seen a hatch as good as the Armstrong for keeping water out.

              The TH SureSeal's are not bad,but in the place where this is going to go I would put nothing but an Armstrong.

              Call Armstrong. 1-800-226-7204

              http://www.armstrongnautical.com/

              PS Eddie is putting one in on his deck in the back. That is what I will do too. If a hatch leaks there it goes to the bildge unstead of out the scuppers.

              I have 2- 6in round Armstrongs in my motor bracket.

              Comment


              • #8
                I agree, and feel that the bilge should be completely water tight. If the deck becomes swamped that water needs to find its way overboard, not into the bilge
                Larry S. - Fort Pierce, Florida[br]23 Contender

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                • #9
                  What has been the general approach to securing the original hatch? I have heard some say they used the 3m to seal the cover with the hatches install on top? Has anyone applied a more permanent fix to this such as glassing the original down and going from there?

                  Thanks,

                  HD

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                  • #10
                    You need the acess to service the bildge pump and float switch. Back to the Armstrong to do the job right.

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                    • #11
                      Probably should have been a little more specific...I spoke with someone recently who cutout a hole the original cover to put in a watertight rectangular hatch (don't know mfg) and then sealed the original cover back to the boat with 3m 5200. (A hatch on a hatch.)

                      You are absolutely right Warthog, I want enough space to inspect/service and clean the bilge.

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                      • #12
                        I understand what you mean now. The hatch he was installing was smaller than the origional opening.

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                        • #13
                          You got it. Personally I don't think this is really a permanent solution.

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                          • #14
                            I don't like it either. It's a tacky looking fix.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              You've got a good point there, I couldn't agree more...then again, very few can pull off the type of work that you are capable of.

                              [8D]

                              When I get around I will post some pics.

                              Thanks for your advice Warthog.

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