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New to me 1978 20' CC

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  • New to me 1978 20' CC

    Worked on this thing for my neighbor. Rebuilt the EFI system, (been sitting, wouldn't run right) new water pump, engine only has 76 hours run time. $700, injectors, gaskets, o rings, a hand full of parts later...Took him and his son out fishing a few times before last winter set in, (he's too old to run it any more and his son is an amputee) Any who, to my surprise, he shows up at my door with the title for the boat and trailer, he just gave it to me. Nice guy huh? Good deeds I suppose...

    So I've been studying upon this thing a bit, transom, gas tank issues, etc. We have been running an outboard tank on the thing not knowing what crud might be in the hull tank that might have taken the original EFI system out. Hard to believe crud got around all those filters... I might replace the tank at some point.

    I was sighting the transom today and I noticed it is bowed out about 3/4" in the center, I was wondering if it's mushy in there...Instead of drilling and tapping, I trimmed the engine down until the skeg was on wood and went a bit more to see how much I could flex the transom to see if any of the bow would diminish, there was non, if any movement at all. I had a straight edge side to side, inside the transom to measure off of.

    I guess these transoms will bow a bit after it's had a good amount of weight hanging on it for 15 years? When I was trimming the engine down, I was actually lifting the boat up just to make sure I was applying enough pressure.

    I haven't noticed it flexing or moving while under way. Suppose it's alright???

    Another mouth to feed.

    Cant figure out how to post pic from my computer.

  • #2
    Nice hull! I've still got my original transom. I believe it was build with a little bow out, but would have to check mine to compare.

    When on trailer, tilt motor up, try and move skeg up-n-down by hand, see if transom gives more than just a little bit.

    Enjoy!
    NYC & L.I. - 1974 \"Classic\" Mako 20\' - Suzuki 2006 DF150 - Fly & Light Tackle, C&R[br]My boat: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23444#159594[br]Personal website: http://www.georgemcauliffe.com/

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    • #3
      Thanks for the input.

      I need some input on what I should do to get the fiberglass back in good shape and protected against the sun and water. A 40 year old hull that I doubt has ever seen any love.

      I plan on cleaning all the algae and crap off by scrubbing and pressure washing but what should I do and use after that to protect/preserve? It hasn't started chalking yet but I have a few nicks that I plan on filling with Marine Tex and I would like to paint and seal the transom area up real good and the bottom too, not to mention the wood.

      Any suggestions on product and procedures to clean and protect?

      Thank You,

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      • #4
        nice boat. I have great memories of time spent on my 1976 20.

        10% bleach and a scrub brush is a good place to start, I'd hold off on the pressure washer, might be a bit aggressive. Bleach and a scrub brush will brighten up the teak too.

        Then what?

        you can wax the gel coat, or just wash it down after use and give her a good cleaning after winter storage.

        Teak oil or just let it naturally weather gray. Varnish or epoxy on teak is not a great idea, but some swear by it.

        I didn't have to replace the tank on the 20, but did replace the tank hoses, they rotted after 25 years. I did replace the tank on the 17, it was naaastay.

        You can check your transom by drilling holes to see if water weeps out and to see the nature of the wood- black mushy means rot and water saturation. Be sure to epoxy and gell coat those holes if you do that. Some are appalled at the suggestion to drill test holes, but a good marine surveyor would do so. My 20 transom delaminated across the back top, I reglassed that. My 17 has punky black wood and water weeping out of the transom where I drilled test holes, does not flex, but replacing it is on the list. Make sure any holes you drill (speed/sonar units, bilge pumps inside, etc) are sealed.
        Richard Snyder[br]Wachapreague, VA[br][br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43622[br]http://www.vims.edu/esl/

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        • #5
          Thank You for the info.

          After a decent rain,I notice there is water in the hull in back under the hatch cover. (have the front jacked up pretty good)

          How is this getting in? Between the center console and the deck? Seems like the only way, should it be caulked till I get around to pulling the cc for tank replacement and then do it right?

          Would like to keep it as dry as possible in/back there.

          Thanks Again.

          Scott

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          • #6
            rod holders, hatch seams, are the live wells forward and aft plumbed or do them dump directly into the bilge? there are drain holes in the hatch receiving rims, but they clog easy. Keep her jacked up!
            Richard Snyder[br]Wachapreague, VA[br][br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43622[br]http://www.vims.edu/esl/

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            • #7
              Live wells are plumbed to dump out the hull. Guess the side storage wells??? Everything else is tight, still, cc is suspect to me...

              Where do those drain holes in the receiving rims drain to?

              Thank You for your time.

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              • #8
                Check the rod holders, most drain to the bilge. Make some caps for when you are not using the boat. the drain holes around the hatches also drain to bilge, but they are small. The side storage should be pretty tight and drain to deck through an aft drain hole
                Richard Snyder[br]Wachapreague, VA[br][br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43622[br]http://www.vims.edu/esl/

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                • #9
                  Thank You Sir.

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