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221B Arjay Transom Pour Advice/Tips?

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  • 221B Arjay Transom Pour Advice/Tips?

    I finally have the arjay needed to replace the transom on my 221B and am planning on doing the pour this weekend. There's no way I could have gotten to the point I am now without the information you all provide on this forum so THANK YOU all for that! As I begin making preps for this weekend I was hoping I could get some advice/recommendations/tips/lessons learned from the folks that have done this before. I planned on mixing small batches but am still trying to figure out how to best pour the arjay into the hollow transom cavity. It wouldn't be as much of an issues with a notched transom but since I have a full transom I'm thinking I'm going to be forced to use a couple funnels through the top cap similar to what Stroken did but also wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations for a better method. I was also planning on using 2X4's for bracing on the outer skin to hopefully prevent any bowing but am not sure if it will be needed...I figure better safe than sorry. I wanted to do a "hot coat" of fiberglass resin on both sides of the skin before I put the outer skin back on but the tech support from arjay didn't think this was needed and said as long as the skin was roughed up & clean I wouldn't have to worry about any bonding issues. I'm leaning towards doing it regardless and wanted to get some feedback from y'all in regards to have far in advance I should do it before I pour. Any/all input is greatly appreciated!
    1994 Mako 221B

  • #2
    The 2x4's are absolutely needed, and need to be placed on edge to prevent bowing. There have been multiple story's of bowed transoms from braces done incorrectly or using different things to brace.



    I am not sure it was needed, but we did lay fresh glass on both skins before we poured. I had 1 funnel and poured 2 pales. I did not do smaller batches, but I also had a crew helping. We poured ~1/2 pale in 1 side, moved funnel to other side and poured the rest, and then did same way with 2nd pale. This stuff will get where it needs to go. Make sure ALL holes are sealed. You can see the sander on make shift scaffold, we did move that around transom right after pour to vibrate and get material to settle where needed.

    My pour was on page 5 of the thread linked in my signature.

    Good Luck!
    \'93 241 https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...etting-started
    \'82 224 - Mobile, AL Gone but NEVER Forgotten - https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...indshield-tank

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    • #3
      Thanks ChuckB! How did you secure the 2x4's to your transom? I was a little nervous about running screws through the fiberglass skin and either having them get bonded to the arjay or creating little voids when removed.
      1994 Mako 221B

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      • #4
        They were secured with lag bolts and stayed until I knew transom had cured. We did not go far into the transom core area; just through the skin, and if you look closely you'll see bolts on each side of the seam. We put close to the seam because that area was getting ground down and rebuilt anyway. The bolts unscrewed without issue.
        \'93 241 https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...etting-started
        \'82 224 - Mobile, AL Gone but NEVER Forgotten - https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...indshield-tank

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        • #5
          I detailed my transom pour in this thread, it starts on page 15 about 3/4s of the way down the page.

          http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top....&whichpage=15

          D-
          Current Mqko - 1990 Mako 211 w/2006 250 E-TEC. http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6226. [br]- Previous Makos 1987 20C, 1979 23\' IB, 1970s 17 Angler

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          • #6
            My pour starts on page 6. Both DT and I raised our transoms 6" as well.

            9 years later and it's still solid.

            http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.a...erms=mako%2C25
            [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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            • #7
              My pour starts on page four

              http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...41&whichpage=4

              I had a professional glass guy advising and we put the arjay on ice the night before and turned down the ac to get it real cool in order to slow the reaction down and give us more working time. We also mixed only half a pail at a time so that if something went wrong we had time to react. You must have someone watching the bilge, stringers and back of the transom for leaks. This stuff will find the smallest hole and pour out faster then you can squeeze a tube of toothpaste so be prepared to stop it up. We ended up stuffing papertowels into a couple of places then wrapped it in duct tape. One place on a stringer just took one piece of ducttape.

              As chuck said, you definitely need the bracing. I had one 2x4 pop off on the starboard side and had a slight bow in the transom which had to be ground down. arjay has microscopic particles of glass in it and it SUCKS to sand! Also I have a plug I cut out that has been in water since I poured and it is rock hard and zero issues with bonding to the skin which I did not hot coat.

              Good luck!
              1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
              1985 Mako 20c - sold
              Fort Walton Beach, FL
              http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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              • #8
                http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...37&whichpage=2

                Good bracing is a must... and make sure there are no holes.

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                • #9
                  Thanks to all that replied for the advice/support! I poured the new transom this morning and it all went without a hitch...gotta love when that happens especially since it never happens to me. Since I was working solo I mixed 2.5 gallon batches and poured it through a large funnel. I was concerned that the funnel would be too slow but it worked out great. I bought 4 pails but only ended up using a little over 3. My only complaint was that one of the pails had quarter sized chunks of what I assumed to be hardened resin in them that I had to dig out before pouring so they didn't get stuck in the funnel. Otherwise the arjay was extremely user friendly and I'm impressed with how solid the back of the boat now feels. I was planning on using epoxy resin & 1708 over the seams where I cut the outer skin off but wanted to see what you all used/recommended. I plan on posting pics on the "Mako Projects" forum once I get it all put back together.
                  1994 Mako 221B

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                  • #10
                    Congrats on the pour. It's a good feeling to get that part checked off! Post pics along the way and we can help you with your project.
                    1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                    1985 Mako 20c - sold
                    Fort Walton Beach, FL
                    http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:


                      Originally posted by Hoop


                      I was planning on using epoxy resin & 1708 over the seams where I cut the outer skin off but wanted to see what you all used/recommended. I plan on posting pics on the "Mako Projects" forum once I get it all put back together.



                      Congrats on a successful pour. I will have to look back through my notes, but I believe I was advised against using epoxy. I believe the product is vinyl ester based, and they said I could use vinyl or poly but not to use epoxy.
                      \'93 241 https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...etting-started
                      \'82 224 - Mobile, AL Gone but NEVER Forgotten - https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...indshield-tank

                      Comment

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