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How do I not break this fitting?

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  • How do I not break this fitting?

    Hi All,

    I have bought a "New to me" 2007 Mako 181. It wasn't running and I am in the process of changing all the fuel lines. Well, when I tried to remove it to clean it up a bit, I broke the anti siphon valve at the elbow that the pickup tube is attached to! Now I'm concerned that I'll also break the elbow as well, but I think I must remove it to use an ez out to get the broken end of the AS valve out of the elbow. Wonder if anyone here would know where I can order the correct pickup tube before I remove the old one? Will any company's work? Any ideas on removing the elbow without also ruining the flange on the tank? Should I try a small impact? Do I really need an anti siphon fitting on an outboard that's mounted above the tank? Thanks

  • #2
    I'm not sure if the pick-up tube is actually attached to the elbow...a few of the tanks I've work on, the tube has a kind of flared end that fits down into the flange and the elbow screws down into the flange...sort of sandwiching the tube in place. - that being said, the tanks I worked on were built by RDS...don't know if all builders have the same set-up. (maybe check with Sunshine in Florida)

    As for removing the elbow, a "trick" that I used was to "freeze spray" the elbow with chilling spray (the stuff used to find thermal intermittent components in electronics) - freezing only the elbow and not the flange...that causes the metal elbow to contract a bit and lets the threads loosen up.

    In lack of true "freeze spray" you can get a can of keyboard duster (canned air) from Staples or Office Max and turn the can upside-down when you spray it so the Freon comes out instead of just air...

    CRC makes a product called "freeze off" - it's a mix of penetrating oil and Freon in a spray can - that may also work to provide the "thermal shock" to loosen the threads. (I buy it at Fastenal)

    Instead of trying to get the broken AS valve out of the elbow, I recommend just replacing the elbow with a new one.

    As for really needing an anti-siphon valve for an outboard...I don't think it is USCG required. - but to me, it is a safety item and most fuel lines (at least in my 211) seem to run down hill into the bilge before they go uphill to the outboard...a line rupture in the bilge is still possible...

    HTH
    1992 211 w/175 OptiMax
    Glen Campbell, Pa.

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    • #3
      So, after breaking the nipple

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      • #4
        I do not run a Anti-siphon valve on mine. My motor kept starving for fuel. 8 years later and have no issues. I would replace the elbow. Just make sure you use a fuel appropriate gasket material when you put the new one in.
        [br]1984 Mako 224[br]1977 Mako 15[br]Clermont, Florida- [br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37212 -Rewire[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40627 -Tank/Misc[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=58615 - Aft Box removal

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        • #5
          FINALLY!!!! Patience paid off. I mixed some acetone with Transmission fluid and applied over a dozen times in 3 days.Then I used a small impact gun for a second at a time in forward and reverse, spayed some more and walked away for a couple of hours and returned again to reapply and just touch it with the impact again. I have finally learned that patience really does pay off!!!

          Then today I laid an ice cube in a baggy on top of the elbow and after 1/2 hour tried the acetone mixture and the impact gun and it MOVED!!!!

          So, I walked away, laid another ice cube and more trannie fluid mixture and it loosened right up so I could actually remove it by hand.

          I have NEVER been this patient with anything but so so glad I was this time and I don't have to cut up my floor to replace this tank!

          Ordered a new suction tube with elbow and a new anti siphon and I'm dancing in the streets tonight! Thanks for this site and all I've learned from reading about stuff like this. Cheers!!

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