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  • Mooring/Travel Cover

    Looking forward to taking my 25 mako to Florida this year on vacation. Figured I bet get a travel/mooring cover because I keep the boat on a trailer in my garage in Ohio.

    Woah! $3000 for a "top gun" material cover over the gunels. Was not ready for that!

    Question, who travels without a cover? IS it that much of a hindrance? I am also concerned about sitting at the dock for those two weeks uncovered. I Hope Flounder and Mr. Delgado see this and reply. I know they have same model boats and hope to get some good advice.

    Thanks and stay warm -11 in Ohio next week[]
    1982 Whaler Montauk 90HP( sold)[br]1977 25 Mako CC 225HP

  • #2
    Rusty,

    I travel and moor using a little console cover that I made up years ago. It needs to be replaced as you will see in the pix below. It snaps across the front, wraps over the sides edges and snaps down on the sides. It is not snapped down in the rear to allow some air to circulate. I trailer with it in place on the interstate and have never had snaps come loose, the fabric tear, or had it come off. I guess the windshield sets up an eddy that is kind to the cover.

    I prefer having the boat open so that moisture doesn't collect under a large cover. In all fairness to you, all my electronics are protected in a box under the tee top, so I can get away with a small cover.





    If I did not have the tee top and electronics box, I would want a console cover that snaps down in the front of the console, covers the sides, the windshield, the dash, the electronics, instruments, steering wheel and binnacle. I would want a snug fit or a fastening strap(s) that would allow a snug fit for use while trailering. I would use it for both travel and mooring.



    The smaller the cover you make up, the easier it is to handle and store while using the boat...not to mention reducing cost. Also, let the air get to the boat. It will get wet when it rains, but it will dry quicker uncovered.

    I used Sunbrella for my stuff. It is a tough canvas material with a soft texture, easy to clean, and will last you a long, long time. The cover in the pix is at least 15 years old, no exaggeration. I have not used Top Gun, but understand it is also a very nice material.

    My cushions go into the truck when I use the interstate. For mooring and short trips, I put them under a cover that attaches to the gunwhale and draps over them. The cushions sit on a waffle pattern material that allows rain water to drain under them freely. I don't have pix of that arrangement, but I will put something together for you if you would like me to.

    BTW. I've been spying on your weather. My grand daughter is at IUP a little NE of Pittsburg. I put both of you on my phone app and spy on her, you, and Ocean City each morning.

    Brr, you guys get kicked in the butt.
    Ole Joe
    Just floundering around
    White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
    1978 Mako 25

    Comment


    • #3
      I agree a good console cover should suffice to protect windshield and electronics while in transit. Removing any loose items like cushions, hatch covers and life jackets. Full covers would have to be of better quality to withstand tearing from wind loads. More important would be to have good mud flaps to protect the hull from road depris. A console cover would protect against moisture and Mother Nature flying creatures. When we had our 17 which had a T-top the windshield and top supports would have to be cleaned to remove dead bugs. Florida has plenty of different bugs during certain seasons which could be messy. (Love bugs) We have started towing our 250 this past summer and in preparation to going on road take down isenglass enclosure, store all buckets, coolers, and containers, secure antennas in down position. All electronics have covers over display screens.
      Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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      • #4
        Where you at in Ohio?

        Many good Amish canvas shops are around that do great work for low cost.

        We use Erb's in Conneautville, very good quality and cost with them.

        Check on the Ohio Game Fishing boards for recommendations in other areas of the state.

        https://www.ohiogamefishing.com/foru...and-motors.37/
        1992 211 w/175 OptiMax
        Glen Campbell, Pa.

        Comment


        • #5
          Rusty,

          In addition to a cover of some sort, dont forget having a good functioning automatic bilge pump (two would be better) for Florida.

          I remember seeing a nice Lovett pump in her when you started working in the bilge, so you are probably covered, but if not, reinstall it or get a new one. Rain water will make its way into the bilge while shes moored.
          Ole Joe
          Just floundering around
          White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
          1978 Mako 25

          Comment


          • #6
            You would be better off to invest in a good handled brush and good soap. No need for a cover while trailering, they are good for keeping the sun off, that's it.
            1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
            1985 Mako 20c - sold
            Fort Walton Beach, FL
            http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

            Comment


            • #7
              Half the fun of having a boat is cleaning her up.[]
              Ole Joe
              Just floundering around
              White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
              1978 Mako 25

              Comment


              • #8
                You are all are just plain awesome!

                Flounder: I actually have a cover that goes over my entire console all the way to the floor. I just dont trust it going down the road at 60mph! I can remove my simrad with two clips...i made it that way. I also have almost completed my removable windshield because of my garage( pictures coming soon. So maybe I will travel with the windshield and electronics removed and put them on when I arrive. I do have the Lovette pump but have to wire the automatic feature. Can you recommend a good spare, I prefer two just in case!

                and yes next week -11 degrees is the high!

                Keyman: thank you for the mud flap comment...never even thought of that!

                Radioman....I know where Erb's i...its a little drive 86 miles but a great resource thank you.

                Sailor: I like how you think..the kids could always use some extra soap while cleaning the blood off the deck!

                After reading these I think I may be better off replacing my bias ply tires before traveling south! That will be a future post I am sure.

                Thanks again!
                1982 Whaler Montauk 90HP( sold)[br]1977 25 Mako CC 225HP

                Comment


                • #9
                  Good Rusty. Don't throw the Lovett away if it is still working.

                  They are good pumps...as good as they come. You should not have to do additional wiring. The auto switch should be built in on that pump. Hook up both leads and set it in a bucket of water. If it doesn't run, I believe kits are available.

                  If you do install a second pump, get the best your budget allows. You'll want the second pump to have a remote float switch which should be installed above the Lovett's "turn on" level. Keep in mind that the water in rear of the bilge will get quite high, rushing back, when you are going up on plane. So, if you set your secondary pump remote switch back there, it needs to be set high.

                  Some people set the secondary remote switch at the low point of the hull when at rest. On our boats that point is under the small hatch immediately in front of the console. If you place the switch there with the secondary pump in the rear, it will serve the same function without coming on when going up on plane. Wire it up with a three way switch so that you can run it manually when you want.

                  Both methods work fine. in the event the Lovett fails, the secondary will not empty the bilge automatically, but it will keep her afloat in the slip or at rest.

                  Both pumps are set the rear of the bilge side by side. Run separate discharge hoses from both so that you don't have to fool with foot valves etc.

                  Good luck.
                  Ole Joe
                  Just floundering around
                  White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
                  1978 Mako 25

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:


                    Originally posted by flounder


                    Rusty,


                    In addition to a cover of some sort, dont forget having a good functioning automatic bilge pump (two would be better) for Florida.

                    I remember seeing a nice Lovett pump in her when you started working in the bilge, so you are probably covered, but if not, reinstall it or get a new one. Rain water will make its way into the bilge while shes moored.


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have that same rain water issue in my 1990 22 center console, was curious where the major entry points are?
                      quote:


                      Originally posted by flounder


                      Rusty,


                      In addition to a cover of some sort, dont forget having a good functioning automatic bilge pump (two would be better) for Florida.

                      I remember seeing a nice Lovett pump in her when you started working in the bilge, so you are probably covered, but if not, reinstall it or get a new one. Rain water will make its way into the bilge while shes moored.


                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Rusty.

                        I have been dragging a Mako back and forth to Florida from New Jersey every winter (for my dad's winter vacation in Marathon) for the last 17 years. Anything you add to the boat will increase your wind resistance and florida is a LONG way from Ohio at highway speeds. Anything that is loose will flap and rattle and move. You don't want anything to MOVE, even a little. I screw down all the hatches, zip tie everything that can be zip tied and NO canvas. I even remove the fabric from the T-top. Depending on the angle of the top, it can be like a sail. One year I left the console cover on and half way down the hill it was wearing thru in a few spots. Save your money for a cover and buy a $79 electric pressure washer for removing the bugs from the windshield and ttop.
                        Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If I stop overnight, I install the console cover.
                          Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Don't know the 22 well enough to voice an opinion. The original 25s have two deck hatches,two gunwhale hatches, and open bottom rod holders that let rain water in.
                            Ole Joe
                            Just floundering around
                            White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
                            1978 Mako 25

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If you stop at motels make sure your electronics are locked up. A console cover keeps temptation away. A good trailer lock on hitch is also a good idea. Interstate 95 has too many opportunities for thief. Watch speed limits and make sure all trailer lights are in working order. Console cover needs to be well secured for wind loads. While towing to Montauk are biggest concern was the total unawareness of drivers concerning safe distances from towing vehicle. We replaced all four tires prior to start towing this season, replaced all wheel bearings, seals, brake calibers and pads. Safety first good luck on your trip.
                              Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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