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Cutty Hatch leaking/replacement

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  • Cutty Hatch leaking/replacement

    Any find a way to stop the hatch on the cutty cabins to stop leaking like they were open? Every time it rains, water pours in.

    If there isn't a way to make the knife edge seal, has anyone found a replacement hatch that fits the bolt pattern?

    If it matters, boat is an '88 230.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Are you referring to the hatch on top of cabin? Check out TC thread or mine. Replaced hatch with Bowar SS low profile hatch. Can order with integral screen too.
    Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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    • #3
      quote:


      Originally posted by keyman


      Are you referring to the hatch on top of cabin? Check out TC thread or mine. Replaced hatch with Bowar SS low profile hatch. Can order with integral screen too.



      Yes, the hatch atop the cabin. Project forums?


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      • #4
        I fought that thing for years, could not make it stop leaking. Replaced with with a new Bomar, look in my project thread for details.
        David, New Kent, Va[br]



        [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

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        • #5
          quote:


          Originally posted by Triplecrownnc


          I fought that thing for years, could not make it stop leaking. Replaced with with a new Bomar, look in my project thread for details.



          Found it on page 47 of 48 on your thread. Looks like you went bigger that OEM. Was that the closest size they had or did you go bigger on purpose, such as being able to get thru it should the need arise?

          Looking on Pompanette's site, they list numerous hatches. Guess yours is the SS Voyager 1700 series?

          I've still got the monkey fur on the cabin overhead with no plans to remove it any time soon. Hoping that is not a problem when mounting a hatch.

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          • #6
            Yes the new hatch will require making the opening larger. I made a template and taped it to the cabin roof and traced the cutout opening with masking tape. Using the hatch trim piece holding it to inside ceiling marked the required cutout on monkey fur then using a razor knife cut it. A screen unit is also avaialble. As TC stated I too tried re-sealing the old unit without success. PO owner painted the frame black which didn't hold up either. You won't be disappointed if you decide to replace the old unit. Our post is in project section "Yet another 250".
            Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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            • #7
              You wont regret doing buying this hatch, its very nice.
              David, New Kent, Va[br]



              [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

              Comment


              • #8
                Checked old post where TC provided parts numbers for hatch.

                Bomar Hatch Series S1839-10A. Also need trim piece and suggest purchasing with screen

                Trim piece Bomar Series 2000
                Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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                • #9
                  Thanks for posting the numbers I did not see them. I'm surprised its an 1800 number as Pompanette's site has 17xx for stainless and 18xx for aluminum.

                  So I need to buy the trim piece seperate? Guessing the trim peice is for the underside/inside cabin?

                  I'ldd def buy the screen to keep bugs out.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yes the trim piece mounts on the inside. Again take alook at TC cabin pictures. I spoke with factory representatives this spring about purchasing the screen. Typically my son used the hatch mounted AC unit when he stayed overnight. Another addition to the cabinet louvered doors was to install screening to keep mud wasps out. We have shore power so when at the marina most of the time a fan is enough to keep cabin cool. Check out page 5 of our post for pics. we replaced the old teak doors the past year and changed the sliding plexiglass becuase it had cracked.
                    Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Just went thru two CS reps at Bomar. Both sounded like work from home's. The first was a young snot nose who interrupted without hearing the question. She never got around to finding out what I called about or needed help with. The second one wasn't much better. They could not tell me trim ring to match the hatch and said the cut out hat to be larger than the hatch. Let that sink in. After 3 back and forths I think the second lady finally understood you don't cut a hole bigger than the hatch. You cut it larger than the spigot so the trim ring fits between boat and hatch. And in hindsight, is it 1/4" total or 1/4" each side for a total cut out 1/2" larger. After that ordeal I'd rather find another company to give my money to.

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                      • #12
                        Unfortunate that you happened to get two repres that were not much help. Basically my son ordered the unit online by providing the part numbers as specified. The hatch specs provides the correct cutout requirements. Do you have the correct part numbers now? The unit is high quality construction and worth a second look.
                        Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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                        • #13
                          I replaced the gasket on my 250 when I still had it. The key is to cut the joint on a 45 degree angle and apply adhesive to both sides of the joint and keep pressure on both sides until the adhesive sets up. Let it cure at least overnight before snugging down the hatch. Worked for me

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                          • #14
                            quote:


                            Originally posted by keyman Do you have the correct part numbers now? The unit is high quality construction and worth a second look.



                            I am going to download their catalog and see what's listed. In looking at the hatch today, the cabin overhead is recessed for the hatch. A larger hatch which requires cutting the opening larger will likely increase the trim ring depth. I suspect the part that is recessed is straight glass while the thick cabin overhead around it is either super thick glass or is laminated with plywood for strength. It's certainly thicker. For a stop-gap during winter to keep water from rushing in, I ran rubber foam around the gasket. My guess is the stock hatch leaks because the stock gasket on the hatch lid is worn. When water runs in, it doesn't appear that any comes in between the cabin and hatch mount, but between the base and lid.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              quote:


                              Originally posted by ahill


                              I replaced the gasket on my 250 when I still had it. The key is to cut the joint on a 45 degree angle and apply adhesive to both sides of the joint and keep pressure on both sides until the adhesive sets up. Let it cure at least overnight before snugging down the hatch. Worked for me



                              Gasket between boat and hatch or the gasket that runs around the lid?

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