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Anchor mount on factory pulpit '88 230

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  • Anchor mount on factory pulpit '88 230

    My 230 has the factory pulpit. I want to mount 13# fluke anchor on it. I can either use chocks and have it lay flat on the pulpit or go with a roller. The issue with the roller is getting it to stick out far enough so the flukes stay forward of the pulpit.

    A roller would require a backing plate inside the pulpit. My arms are long but not that long. With chocks I can use screws. With a roller, I can motor to the spot I want the anchor to be at, unlatch it and let it drop. With chocks, I need to pick the anchor up and slide under the rail and then pitch or drop.

    I would most likely need to add a hawse pipe for the chain and line else I would have to clip the rode to the anchor before dropping each time. I could clip the road to the bow eye rod inside the locker. My locker is an opening that drops to the hull. It is not an actual locker or confined space with drain hole.

    An important consideration is the location of the bow light, which is under the pulpit. I don't want the flukes to block it from forward observers. In laying the anchor on top of the pulpit and sticking it out past the pulpit, the flukes do not block the bow light. A roller that help the anchor at a downward facing anchor mostly likely would.

    Your experience and insight is valued. Thank you.

    Anchor chocks I'm considering.

    There are many types of bow rollers with most seem made for plow or delta style anchors.

  • #2
    I had the same boat. I went with the bow pulpit, roller and used a fluke anchor. Picked one up from ebay for a decent price. The backing plate is completely doable. Big thing for me was anchoring on the centerline of the boat swings less in the wind and current.
    1995 282


    • #3
      How did you get up into the forward pulpit area to hold the backing plate on, hold washers on, and screw on 2-4 nuts?

      Any pics of your old boat with that set up?


      • #4
        if you have the backing plate pre drilled to the bolt pattern, smear it with silicone, put the bolts through the deck and put the backing plate on a 1x2 and once it is over the bolts you can duct tape the back side of a box end wrench and with two people the smallest person ( small kids work well here) gets the under side and the other starts spinning the bolts as underside sucker curses and swears hopefully gets the nuts on.
        1995 282


        • #5
          Do you have a small one I can borrow?

          Funny story. Back in 88 we had a short, skinny girl check into the avionics shop (naval aviation). Most didn't like the fact she wasn't trained, but a non-rate. I saw the silver lining and asked for her by name. The shop LPO was good with that. He came out to the jet to see what I had her doing. I was straddling the canopy sill, holding her ankles and twisting her legs this way and that while asking, how about that? The engineers of the old Dougless A4 Skyhawk had put the relays up forward of the pilot's pedals where we couldn't get to them. No access panel from the outside either.At 30-40 years of age, they were going bad. She was all too willing to help out any way she could to be part of the team. From that point on she was the shop hero. Kind of like the story of Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer.


          • #6
            It was actually not that bad. At 5'10 and 165 I was able to lay on my back inside the anchor hatch and reach.
            1995 282


            • #7

              Originally posted by 1988Mako230

              My 230 has the factory pulpit. I want to mount 13# fluke anchor on it...

              What works well is to fit a thru-bow plank anchor roller (as shown on mine) and have the anchor store naturally, through the plank. BTW the underneath of the plank is a horrible place for the bow light.

              Handling the anchor rode with a hawse pipe is always a pain. So I am planning a tip-out rode bin into which I can flake the rode as I hand-over-hand it in. The existing anchor locker on my 1987 248 was completely open to the inside of the hull. So I cut away the bottom of the door opening and glassed in an extension of the deck to make that area water-tight. See progress photos, one of which shows the plank removed, and also also shows some deck core replacement.

              \"Anything seems possible when you don\'t know what you\'re doing.\"


              • #8

                Originally posted by mbsbrett

                It was actually not that bad. At 5'10 and 165 I was able to lay on my back inside the anchor hatch and reach.

                With a reverse opening door and bow cleat/trailer lug rod in the way, I'm curious how you did that. If there was room between the cabin and the deck and no support rod, I could see getting in there a bit.


                • #9
                  Have you considered adding a windlass? One of the best additions we added to our 250. I agree that the location of the bow light isn't ideal. When we added our windlass I installed low profile nav lights. Check out our post in project section "Yet another 250"
                  Keyman[br]Paoli, PA