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  • Through Hull FIttings

    Hey all, I tried searching but it keeps throwing an error.

    I'm getting ready to have the rest of the bottom paint removed from my 261 as well as fix a bunch of voids and bare spots where the gel coat is gone due to one of the prior owners running the boat over a rock or something. To top it all off the hull from keel to rub rail will be getting resprayed.

    My question is the through hull fittings are old and have been covered in a very thick layer of bottom paint, should I wait till the whole boat is resprayed and then replace, or pop them out now, have hull sprayed and then install new ones? I'm getting a small amount of water in the bilge and am not sure if one of the through hulls has a small leak, its not enough to kick the bilge on even after being on the water all day.

    I'm looking at replacing them all with gemlux stainless fittings. Any pros/ cons to these? Seems everyone likes their products on here, any problems with rust?


    1988 Mako 261

  • #2
    If you're going to replace them anyway, remove them before repainting.
    \"Anything seems possible when you don\'t know what you\'re doing.\"

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    • #3
      quote:


      Originally posted by BallBuster


      If you're going to replace them anyway, remove them before repainting.



      X2
      1984 Mako 238 WA [br]2015 Suzuki 250 APX[br]Central PA/OCMD[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35081[br]

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      • #4
        Gemlux makes great stuff. Used a bunch of their products on my 17 and will do the same on the 25 I just picked up. A little advice. Below the water line use bronze, above you can use stainless.
        -Raul
        from Tampa, FL

        :::Under Construction:::
        1985 Mako 254 - Twin Suzuki 200s in the future
        http://forum.classicmako.com/forum/c...rglass-squot-s

        1987 Mako 171 Angler - 2017 Suzuki 115
        http://forum.classicmako.com/forum/c...ngler-splashed

        1987 Mako 21B - 2013 Suzuki 150 4 stroke For Sale Soon

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        • #5
          Stainless is for above the waterline, bronze below.

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          • #6
            Thanks everyone, I'll get some bronze ones ordered when these get popped out. Today I popped up the bilge cover as the pie plates are WAY too small to work though. All the hoses in here are as stiff as PVC so i'll be replacing all of them. Any recommendations on hose or just use the same type?

            I removed all of the PVC ball valves and got to the through hull fittings. I need to soak them in some PB blaster and find a big wrench or something to try and break them loose. I have an above deck livewell that the previous owner put in that makes it hard to get into a good position to get them with the channel locks.




            1988 Mako 261

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            • #7
              Female threaded plastic fittings and valves should never be threaded onto male metal threads. And ball valves are not sea cocks.

              Reinforced vinyl hose is OK, but I prefer heater hose.
              \"Anything seems possible when you don\'t know what you\'re doing.\"

              Comment


              • #8
                quote:


                Originally posted by BallBuster


                Female threaded plastic fittings and valves should never be threaded onto male metal threads. And ball valves are not sea cocks.


                Reinforced vinyl hose is OK, but I prefer heater hose.


                Agreed. I've been working on fixing several things that the prior owner did that really have me scratching my head, plumbing being one of them.

                Does heater hose hold up to the salt and remain pliable better than the vinyl hose?
                1988 Mako 261

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                • #9
                  Got all the thru hulls out today. Last remaining one is the transducer. Drove all over creation looking for a step wrench and nobody had one and west marine wanted 65 bucks and had to order it. SO stopped by northern tool and picked up a pair of cheap sockets for 10 bucks and made my own. Worked like a charm.

                  Now the bad news, I pulled the lowest fitting on the transom and water dripped out.... The wood is soaked, but its not flaking and still feels solid. I put my blower fan on high in the bilge and will let that run for a month or so to see if I can get that dried out and see whats going on. Ive tapped all over the transom and there are no dead spots. Boat goes in for a paint mid to late Jan and will be there for a month or 2 so it'll have plenty of time to dry.




                  1988 Mako 261

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                  • #10
                    It's an old boat, wet wood is a given. If it's not falling apart rotten, I would overdrill it, seal with epoxy and install the new throughhulls.
                    1981 15\' Boston Whaler, 1987 MidOcean 26, 1973 22\' Mako (Hull+trailer for sale)

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