Question: How to prevent hull rot/water damage?

[irishmurph]

With all the threads about rotted transoms and floors on classic Makos, what can be done to prevent it, besides keeping the boat indoors [] ?

I know the rotting generally happens over the decades, but obviously, the rot is not inevitable, as I could just keep it in a garage somewhere ..., but that's not happening!

As a new owner of a 1990 231 that seems to be pretty solid, having spent most of its life "dry" (on trailer or lift), here is what I come up with as a strategy of keeping it that way:

1. Keep it on a trailer or lift (when not in use), with the drain plug out

a) I assume this will help to prevent rain water from collecting

b) but doesn't water collect anyway unless the bow is raised?

2. Keep it not only out of the water (when not in use), but covered so rain doesn't collect as in 1)

3) Regularly inspect to Ensure that the through hulls are not leaking

4)???

I do plan to have it in the water for several weeks next summer. Any suggestions on making sure I'm not taking on any water?

-- like inspect live well, etc

Thanks for any suggestions!

[Justin]

Remove every fastener attached to the:

gunnels

bow deck

main deck

transom

overdrill the holes, fill with thickened epoxy, and bed the fasteners in the epoxy.

[Triplecrownnc]

Pull the tank lid every 2 years, clean the tank, reseal the lid with fresh sealant. People don't realize you cant put sealant on something and think its going to prevent water intrusion for 20 years.

[irishmurph]

quote:

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Originally posted by Triplecrownnc


Pull the tank lid every 2 years, clean the tank, reseal the lid with fresh sealant. People don't realize you cant put sealant on something and think its going to prevent water intrusion for 20 years.

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Thanks for the suggestions. I assume you mean the coffin lid, right?

If I am going to pull the coffin lid in a year or so, maybe I should plan on pulling the gas tank for inspection and coating with something to prevent rust? Any opinions?

The boat is a 1990. The previous owner did some careful / quality work on repairing a crack in the deck that was due to a manufacturing defect. He said everything he could see was dry and in perfect shape when he had the deck open, but the gas tank is original.

[cgmiller]

If you pull the tank, clean it and coat it with coal tar epoxy. That will keep water from corroding the aluminum. Replace all of the rubber hose if it has not been done already. If orignal, ethanol is slowly decomposing the interior of the fuel lines and letting particals move towards the engine. Keep good filters on hand. Also replace the fuel lines on the engines if not alcolhol rated.

[Sailor]

The problem occurs from lack of maintenance and improper installation of deck/transom penetrations. Sealant does not last forever and when it breaks down it leaks.

[rustyolddad]

Hope this is not considered hijacking...if it is let me know and I will delete.....

Justin...I am unfamiliar wit this process. Do you fill the hole, let it set up and then redrill? Or do you set the fastener in while the epoxy is still green?

quote:

---

Originally posted by Justin


Remove every fastener attached to the:

gunnels

bow deck

main deck

transom

overdrill the holes, fill with thickened epoxy, and bed the fasteners in the epoxy.

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[brando]

quote:

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Originally posted by rustyolddad


Hope this is not considered hijacking...if it is let me know and I will delete.....

Justin...I am unfamiliar wit this process. Do you fill the hole, let it set up and then redrill? Or do you set the fastener in while the epoxy is still green?

quote:

---

Originally posted by Justin


Remove every fastener attached to the:

gunnels

bow deck

main deck

transom

overdrill the holes, fill with thickened epoxy, and bed the fasteners in the epoxy.

---

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You let it set up.

Drill the hole oversized, fill with epoxy resin and Cabo sill for a thickener (can also throw some fiberglass millinga in), let it cure, drill appropriately then bed screw as you normally would with 4200 sealant. I always use boat life zeal equivalent

[brando]

quote:

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Originally posted by irishmurph



I do plan to have it in the water for several weeks next summer. Any suggestions on making sure I'm not taking on any water?

-- like inspect live well, etc

Thanks for any suggestions!

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Healthy batteries, working bilge pumps with Tim Wire/good connections and high water alarm. Also drain tubes need to be above water

[Justin]

quote:

---

Originally posted by rustyolddad


Hope this is not considered hijacking...if it is let me know and I will delete.....

Justin...I am unfamiliar wit this process. Do you fill the hole, let it set up and then redrill? Or do you set the fastener in while the epoxy is still green?

quote:

---

Originally posted by Justin


Remove every fastener attached to the:

gunnels

bow deck

main deck

transom

overdrill the holes, fill with thickened epoxy, and bed the fasteners in the epoxy.

---

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Brando nailed it...let the epoxy setup, and the drill for your fasteners.

[Noname Dave]

If possible, use a cover and remove deck hatches to ventilate.

Ohter than that, use the boat and don't worry about it.

[mymako231]

Hi Bill,

Great thread, and all good questions and answers.

The coffin lid was resealed in June 2018, I used Loctite Marine. It has always stood up for me.

I also agree with Noname Dave, the best defense is the boat cover.

And if you are going to leave it in the water for several weeks next summer, I would add a second bilge pump for safety sake.

PS that boat is beautiful and I miss it.

Happy boating,

George

[irishmurph]

quote:

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Originally posted by Noname Dave


If possible, use a cover and remove deck hatches to ventilate.

Ohter than that, use the boat and don't worry about it.

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Lots of good ideas. Thanks!