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Valve for baitwell drain on 230 transom thru hull

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  • Valve for baitwell drain on 230 transom thru hull

    [img][/img]Not having a seacock or ball valve on the 1 1/2" baitwell drain bothers me. The thru hull is barbed. My guess is to change the plastic thru hull to a bronze one and add a valve to it then connect the hose to a barbed fitting screwed into the valve. Is this correct? Has anyone done this to their transom thru hull and if so, what components did you use? TIA





    edited to change hose size from 1 1/8 to 1 1/2.

  • #2
    Just did this but upgraded my 1" to 1 1/2". You got it right, new thru hull, seacock valve, threaded fitting. Make sure thru hull is long enough for transom, nut, and a good hold for seacock. Mine squeaked by but a bit longer thru hull gives peace of mind that you get it on good.
    [br]\'82 Mako 20B http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59077

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    • #3
      I redid mine because the plastic flapper on the transom kept letting water back into the livewell when not using the livewell when the boat is heavily loaded. I then tried adding an inline flapper valve, but that eventually failed. Now I have a 1 1/4" bronze through-hull, valve and hose barb. The slight downside was that given the angle of the transom, by the time you get to the barb, it is about an inch higher, but much better peace of mind keeping the valve shut when not in use.
      [br]Mako 241[br]Winter Garden, FL

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      • #4
        I just redid mine as well, but did not use the bronze through hull. Bought new 1 1/5 inch tubing and added 1.5 shutoff. Replaced through hull as well. No more backfilling the live well.
        Brian Duff[br]1988 Mako 211-Sold [br]1991 Mako 231 special edition[br]2001 Yamaha 250 ox66[br]Toms River, NJ[br][br]

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        • #5
          Do you have pics or links online to what you used?

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          • #6
            Wood was wet around the thru hull. I removed the rotted wood. Letting it dry then will fill.



            What is the best product to fill the void with? If WS, what filler?



            The thru hull







            I went to West Marine today. They did not have much in stock. Their bronze seacock was huge and I could not turn the handle. It has a bottom zerk fitting that requires greasing twice a year. I'd have to remove the SC to get to it. That's a no go.

            I assembled a bronze thru hull, ball valve (marine) and hose barb while there. It was huge and heavy. Could not turn that valve either.

            With a seacock and 1.5" exit size, the thru hull is much smaller. That means reducing the current hole in transom to that size. I'm not trying to turn this into a major project. My goal is to add safety to the boat by adding a shut off valve to the baitwell. I do not plan on using the baitwell and want it left dry. Makes a good trash receptacle.

            At this point I do not know where to turn for a good set up. Any help is appreciated.

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            • #7
              You might give Jamestown Distributors a look. I seem to recall they have good help by phone too.

              I'm following along, as this is on my project list.
              1990 Mako 230[br]1999 Mercury 225 EFI[br]2004 Lund Alaskan 1600[br]2005 Mercury Bigfoot 25[br]Wrentham MA[br]

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              • #8
                Bronze thru hull and a SS valve from Gemlux
                David, New Kent, Va[br]



                [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

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                • #9
                  quote:


                  Originally posted by nodima


                  You might give Jamestown Distributors a look. I seem to recall they have good help by phone too.


                  I'm following along, as this is on my project list.


                  They carry Groco's which for the 1 1/2" have a max hull thickness of 1 7/8". I need 2 1/2" hull thickness plus thread for tightening. I've spent the day at WM and the internet and have nothing to show for it. Ready to reinstall the old thru hull and call it a day. Would really like a valve on that hose should it ever let loose.

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                  • #10
                    quote:


                    Originally posted by Triplecrownnc


                    Bronze thru hull and a SS valve from Gemlux



                    Have you checked it lately for galvanic corrosion?

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                    • #11
                      quote:


                      Originally posted by 1988Mako230


                      quote:


                      Originally posted by Triplecrownnc


                      Bronze thru hull and a SS valve from Gemlux



                      Have you checked it lately for galvanic corrosion?



                      Its been back there for years and still looks new.
                      David, New Kent, Va[br]



                      [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

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                      • #12
                        I had the same FRUSTRATING experience! I could not find a long enough thru hull to make it work! I ended up replacing mine with the same barbed Marelon thruhull (from Jamestown).

                        I too wanted the security of a ball valve, but couldn't see a way to make it work.

                        I bought a wooden plug to stop the water from coming into the baitwell. Now I have a perfectly dry hatch! It took me two years to figure that one out! [)][)][)]

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                        • #13
                          quote:


                          Originally posted by Triplecrownnc


                          quote:


                          Originally posted by 1988Mako230


                          quote:


                          Originally posted by Triplecrownnc


                          Bronze thru hull and a SS valve from Gemlux



                          Have you checked it lately for galvanic corrosion?



                          Its been back there for years and still looks new.



                          For my education, why did you go with a stainless ball valve instead of a seacock or bronze ball valve? Is this the one you went with, if so I grasp why you don't have corrosion issues. The handle is stainless, but the body is nylon.

                          http://www.gemlux.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3029/.f

                          Edit: Just got off the phone with Gemlux. They stated anytime dissimilar metals are in contact there is corrosion. He would not recommend the stainless body valve to mate with a bronze thru-hull and said the nylon is plenty strong for it and would be the best choice. Nodima, hope you're keeping up with this.

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                          • #14
                            For those interested, this is what I ordered directly from Gemlux. I also ordered their famous hinges to replace the ones on the cabin hatch and door. They won't address the other half left swinging by the piano hinges, but for the top hatch, I will not have to replace the missing lift strut. Simply swing the hatch up to where I want it. Same with the cabin door. Hope it makes both more secure so they rattle less when the water is choppy.


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                            • #15
                              Got ahead of myself with Gemlux. For $35 more I could have had a bronze valve from Defender.


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