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Oil or Varnish on Teak

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  • Oil or Varnish on Teak

    I have a 20ft. Classic Mako with a ton of teak. I was always told never to varnish teak. Oil or Varnish. Go....

  • #2
    Varnish looks better, but more maintenance...10 coats to start, and maintenance coats every few years, depending on UV exposure.

    Oil is easier but doesnt look as nice.
    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]


    • #3
      2007 Everglades 243 250 Suzuki[br]1988 201 Yamaha 200 - Sold[br]1990 261 T/200 SWS - Sold[br]1978 25 225 Johnson - Sold[br]1975 20 85 Merc - Sold[br]Jacksonville, FL[br]


      • #4
        clean it and coat with sickens cetol marine,,,,works great,,,
        Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]


        • #5
          Oil it, then wait a year.

          Varnish it, then wait a year.

          Rip it up, put it in a dumpster fire, and replace with starboard.

          NYC & L.I. - 1974 \"Classic\" Mako 20\' - Suzuki 2006 DF150 - Fly & Light Tackle, C&R[br]My boat:[br]Personal website:


          • #6
            If you want to keep the classic look and get some head turn, go get some sikkens cetol.

            Strip to raw, stain with your choice, and then seal.

            It is definitely some work , but the end result is truely amazing. Will last many years.
            Brian Duff[br]1988 Mako 211-Sold [br]1991 Mako 231 special edition[br]2001 Yamaha 250 ox66[br]Toms River, NJ[br][br]


            • #7
              oil all the way.

              Varnish, no way.

              I've tried the sikkens, and it did look good, but despite good prep did not last as long as I would have liked. The problem there is that if you want to go back to oil, its A LOT of work to get the stuff that hasn't failed off
              1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]


              • #8
                why not epoxy? *walks off to get popcorn*

                Teak was always valued as a boat lumber for its ability to weather and not rot, open grain that was naturally non-slip if left unfinished. if you want cetol, varnish, or epoxy shiny bling, there are more attractive trim woods out there you could use to replace the utilitarian teak.

                stick with oil, and be proud of your teak's properties and its maritime history.
                Richard Snyder[br]Wachapreague, VA[br][br][br]


                • #9
                  I took all the teak (I could) off of my '88 231 cleaned it thoroughly, then,using Jamestown Distributors Total Boat penetrating epoxy - following their instructions, sealed it and have applied 6 coats of their Lust matte varnish. It looks amazing and based on what I have researched should last at least few season with some minor touching up.. The varnish can be applied one coat over the other for three coats and can be re coated every couple of hours or so. After three coats you let it set for a couple of days..light sand with 320 then apply a few more coats..easy. As I said it looks amazing and since it isn't decking there isn't much reason to let it go greyand mildewy and have to be cleaned and oiled constantly - just something to consider. Goodluck with your project Bob S


                  • #10
                    I agree with the penetrating epoxy but I use Smiths Original and Geniune (CPES) Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. After that, I went with Honey Teak by Fabula. Read the online reviews on this stuff. The guy at West Marine said its the only thing he will put on his wood but I had to get it somewhere else because they dont carry it. Its not cheap but will last seasons. DO NOT VARNISH!
                    [br]Captain W[br]1970 Mako 19


                    • #11
                      Sikens Cetol. A couple of coats lasts years.