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Seal it up !!

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  • Seal it up !!

    Hey Guys, I pulled the trigger on purchasing a slip for the 2018 season !

    Im fairly new to owning a boat so I have a few questions about leaving my 1970 Classic 19 stting in the water as it typically lives on a trailer in my driveway haha !

    I am excited to use it a bunch more this coming season as it is tuff to trailer it and get it in and out of the water every time I want to go fishing and or take the wife out.

    What I am trying to find out and learn more about is what is necessary when leaving your boat in the water for 6 months ?

    What should I be waxing ?

    How often ?

    What should I do with Motor when not in use ?

    I re-wired the entire boat last season and I want to get everything sealed up good so what should I do to waterproof all the joints and places where water can cause damage (above and beyond the obvious) ?

    Im feeling nervouse about this as I have never owned a boat to keep in the water......

    Any help or input is greatly appreciated !
    1970 Mako 19

  • #2
    Is the boat self bailing? How many batteries and bilge pumps do you have? If you can check the boat daily that would give you peace of mind. As long as you have someone to keep an eye on your boat at marina you would be fine. Another option that would help is to have shorepower. Two batteries on a charger would give you back-up for your bilge pump(s).
    Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

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    • #3
      My 74 Mako 17 has spent every season in the water except 5. A good battery switch that kills everything except the automatic bilge pump will ensure that the boat will start when you want it to, Try to run the engine at least 1x per week. Good bottom paint. I use west marine store brand CCP ablative. Make sure you paint your transducer or it will get fouled. Paint the engine bracket with aluminum antifouling paint and if the lower unit does not come all the way out of the water, paint that too. Keeping water out of the bilge is the most important thing. I use a rule fully automatic bilge pump and a second pump with a float switch.
      Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

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      • #4
        Your pump shouldnt run continuously. If it does, something wrong with your hull. Hook up two batteries with shore power OR a solar panel. Our make of Mako should drain rain water without ever getting to the hull.
        [br]Captain W[br]1970 Mako 19

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        • #5
          The boat has two batteries under console, I have all the power split off the two batterys using a dual Blue Seas Fuse panel. THe batterys are toggled using a perko 3 way battery switch under the console.

          I have two 750 GPM Bilge Pumps, One is direct wired to one of the batterys passed thru the fuse panel it resides at the stern in the bilge.. (as I am learning now this is a no no for some people and they say to run it directly to the battery with no switch or fuse) I understand why this is however I like knowing its fused so it doesnt catch on fire or something.

          The other bilge is wired thru my switch panel and is located on the deck in a sump box just in front of the transom on the deck. THis is switched on for splashover etc. Im thinking maybe I should set this up on a three way switch and leave it powered to auto/float switch mode when boat is tied to the dock. Does this make sense ?

          Im not 100% sure if they have power at the marina for each boat however I think they do. If so I will leave the batterys on charge when not in use.

          The bottom is painted with Blue West marine chalky type paint Im not sure what its called exactly, However is this something I need to do More than once a season ? Should I be pulling the boat out half way thru the season and painting the bottom ?

          The boat is powered by a mid 90s Yamaha 115 two stroke, it has a 25" shaft, the motor is mounted to the transom using a 1/4" thick Diamond plate transom bracket and is lifted a few inches. Transom is solid as a rock !

          I have had the console removed to rewire the boat, when I reinstalled the console I did not use any type of sealant when screwing the console base back down to the deck. Im regretting this now as at that time the boat was a trailer queen and I had no anticipation of having it slipped. I dont have the teak strips that it originally sat on, they were not installed when I purchased the boat.

          Is this something I should worry about ? the boat has a plastic fuel tank that I took out and inspected last spring, when I reinstalled it I sealed up the coffin lid very well.

          However, the coffin lid has some holes in it from the previous owner when installing the plastic tank they left a couple holes in the top of it under the console.

          Im not sure what to do to seal the console to the deck/ coffin lid ??? Any help here would be awesome.
          1970 Mako 19

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          • #6
            Here are some photos of the paint, motor mount and coffin lid.










            1970 Mako 19

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            • #7
              more then one pump is a rule I've always kept on any boat that stays in the water for me after almost losing one years ago, even with limited space if one fails there's another to kick on

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              • #8
                Hello,

                I keep a spray bottle mixed bleach solution handy. Spray the bilge area down periodically to keep mold to a minimum. Also you will need to spray your storage areas and fish boxes. This will really help with end of season cleaning.

                Make sure you replace all your worn zincs. Don't keep anything on board that you don't want ruined by moisture. The sun is not your friend, keep cushions out of light.
                Thanks, Mr. Happy
                Home waters - LBI NJ
                1997 Mako 232

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                • #9
                  I keep mine in the water all year. Dual pumps connected to separate batteries is a plus. You should really install a battery charger/maintainer. It's like having shore power for your boat and will keep your bilge pumps running all the time if needed. A boat that continually pumps water is one about to sink!

                  You also need to seal up those old seat base screw holes ASAP.
                  1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                  1985 Mako 20c - sold
                  Fort Walton Beach, FL
                  http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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                  • #10
                    Sorry for the delayed response ! Ok as soon as I Pull the cover off I will seal up all the seat base holes and anything I can find that will allow water into the bilge or under the console.

                    Im going to keep a battery charger onboard and keep it plugged in. Im going to hook both onboard pumps directly to each battery that way they will pull from two power sources or maybe add a third accessory battery . Thanks everyone !
                    1970 Mako 19

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                    • #11
                      I would also install a high water alarm. You can buy a kit or you can make your own like I did. Just use a float switch and a peizzo alarm (I got mine from radio shack, but look online). Install the float switch higher up so it doesn't go off all the time and don't put it where the float switch will bounce will running. []
                      1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                      1985 Mako 20c - sold
                      Fort Walton Beach, FL
                      http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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                      • #12
                        Ok cool yes ill look into the float alarm.

                        Im going to order a third bilge pump and Im highly contemplating adding a third battery to the system.

                        This would strictly be a accessory battery for bilge pump(s) and lights etc. I will keep it trickle charged with a solar panel.
                        1970 Mako 19

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