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Advice getting 261 bow down

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  • Advice getting 261 bow down

    I have a 1988 261 with an enclosed transom, armstrong bracket and 2 225 honda 4 strokes and 12x12 tabs. In calm water the boat actually rolls over onto plane and runs up to 50+ pretty quick. In rougher seas at slow /medium speeds the bow runs high and the motors are very deep in the water. I am sure there are previous posts regarding this but I have not been able to find them in the search functions.Any direction to previous posts or advise is appreciated.

    I have been whittling away on rebuilding basically the entire boat boat. The Ttop/canvas was replaced with a fiberglass hardtop w/cobia tower,tackle center/ leaning post, new fuel tank, complete rewire,refinished,etc.... I will post photos when I figure out how

    Thank you Eric

  • #2
    Do you have trim tabs?

    Move batteries to console if they arent there already.

    Can you move engines up on the bracket?
    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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    • #3
      you have a common issue. The boats of that vintage were not designed to have the engine weight that far back.The bracket was just an add on without shifting the fuel tanks etc.. The bracket acts like a lever with the transom as the pivot point. Increasing the size of your tab plates will help (tabman at Bennet can help with this) but it will still take a lot of tab to flatten it out. It is a problem you are not likely to solve. Most boats like yours have a couple of hundred pounds of sandbags in the bow. It helps but won't completely solve it.
      1991 221 2006 250 ETEC Kinston NC

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      • #4
        What props are you running? a good pair of 4 blade props with stern lifting qualities can help with this. on my 25 I also have 12 x 18" tabs that have been cut back to 12 x 16"

        also, in rougher conditions I have noticed everyone wants to run to the back of the boat when you start to plane off, making this issue that much worse...
        76 25 \"Aenigma\"[br]73 17[br]Richland/Long Beach, MS[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14182[br][br]17 project[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=56176

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        • #5
          One way to fix this is to add a hook to the bottom of the boat aft where bottom meets the transom. This will allow the boat to run on a better plane - using trim tabs to do this is a band aid - leave the trim tabs as is.

          Typically, you start with something like a fir strip and build front leading edge fair with bottom - you can trim down surface of the strip until you find the perfect shape. Once done, then you glass into hull bottom for final.

          I've done this on several larger sport fish with same issues and it was total success -A little bit of work, but if you are keeping the boat, this will do it.

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          • #6
            Everyone thank you for the feed back

            The batteries are in console,the console was pushed 4"forward with the TTop refit, running powertech SS 4 blades, 12 x 12 lenco edge mount tabs, the previous owner told me he had raised the motors and had cavitation issues when planed out,

            How much weight forward have people used? I had a 230lb man up front and did not notice much difference but I probably did not give it a fair evaluation. Anyone used more weight than that?

            Why did you cut 2" off tabs? I can fab any size tab blade....did the 16" tab give you any gains?

            Have you ever added hook to a mako ? Are there photos avail of this install?

            Has anyone had this problem resolved to any degree after repowering to lighter weight Suzukis ?

            thanks again Eric

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            • #7
              My first thought was to get rid of the hondas, they are just too heavy for the hull. Is your bracket full of foam and therefore water? 5 gallon buckets with lids allow you to adjust weight in the bow on the water, just fill them up or dump them out to find the right amount of weight to keep up forward.

              On my 231 with bracket I store as much gear as possible in the forward port seat. I use my starboard port seat as a fishbox with 100lbs of ice, I keep 20' of 3/8" stainless chain and rope in the anchor locker and a big anchor in the fishbox in the front floor. I store as much other junk with weight in the center console and keep my life jackets under my aft lift outs. The only weight I have behind the console is myself, passengers, and the food/beverage cooler under the leaning post
              1989 Mako 261[br]SOLD - 1987 231 restore/rebuild http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=46836&whichpage=1[br]

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              • #8
                when ringleader refurbished his boat to the next level, he said and I agree the factory recessed tabs were not wide enough, and I agree, and I think did not go deep enough. That being said my 241 with bracket was pretty tab dependent. Honestly would be better not needing tabs at all except minimally or in extreme conditions or weight on one side.I haven't heard that hook idea before? Would like to see that

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                • #9
                  Eric

                  I did this to two Topaz 32' and a Hatteras 46' - In all cases, when the boat was laden with fuel and gear, this issue would happen - In all 3 cases. the vessel attitude changed to a planning hull out of the hole - the real trick is to make sure the hook is not to large to cause bow down attitude, but to plane - let the tabs give you bow down, when needed.

                  I could draw u a rough sketch via PM if you this would help

                  [email protected]

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                  • #10
                    I just purchased a 1989 261 with twin Suzuki 225 4 strokes that sit on a floating bracket. I havent noticed the problem you are having though. I would try shifting the weight as much as possible toward the front, non aggressive 3 blade props as I find anything over a 15x17 3 blade or a 4 blade prop of any kind is either very hard for the motors to turn up quickly or actually slip in the water and the boat is not as responsive to throttle commands. Not sure how much heavier Hondas are than Suzukis but Id try everything else I could before an engine swap. You could also try a full tank of gas vs half full and see if that helps. I dont know if it will just throwing out ideas. Keep us updated. Good luck.
                    Proud owner of a Mako 22

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                    • #11
                      quote:


                      Originally posted by eclapsaddle


                      Everyone thank you for the feed back


                      The batteries are in console,the console was pushed 4"forward with the TTop refit, running powertech SS 4 blades, 12 x 12 lenco edge mount tabs, the previous owner told me he had raised the motors and had cavitation issues when planed out,

                      How much weight forward have people used? I had a 230lb man up front and did not notice much difference but I probably did not give it a fair evaluation. Anyone used more weight than that?

                      Why did you cut 2" off tabs? I can fab any size tab blade....did the 16" tab give you any gains?

                      Have you ever added hook to a mako ? Are there photos avail of this install?

                      Has anyone had this problem resolved to any degree after repowering to lighter weight Suzukis ?

                      thanks again Eric


                      cut the tabs down due to being too wide and the inner edges were too close to centerline disturbing water flow to the props when lowered
                      76 25 \"Aenigma\"[br]73 17[br]Richland/Long Beach, MS[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14182[br][br]17 project[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=56176

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                      • #12
                        I re-built a 92' 261 with Yamaha F250s. Swap your lower units so that the props swing towards each other, the props push water into the "hole" created by the hull and provides a massive amount of lift. Problem solved, no need to add weight to the bow or perform any modifications such as a hook.
                        Miss Grace[br]Mako 261 of a kind[br]Anydayonaboat.com[br]Cracker Boatworks[br]

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                        • #13
                          Very interesting. Having the props turn in toward each other is how mine is already set up. Good info. Thanks for sharing.
                          Proud owner of a Mako 22

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                          • #14
                            Bigger tabs. Lighter engines. Was this a factory bracket or one added after the fact.

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                            • #15
                              big and heavy 4 strokes were not around when this hull was designed.
                              David, New Kent, Va[br]



                              [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

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