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  • what can you tell me..?

    newbie here

    havent looked at it yet only seen these pics. guy doesnt know much about it. havent seen a hull number yet

    can any tell me things like year range, 221? 224? or other?

    what hp and shaft length you might know of to fit?

    have owned a few i/o runabouts but never anything like this.

    wonder if i get it cheap enough will i blow past the value by restoring it?

    most everything i should be able to handle myself labor wise

    thanks in advance








    Jeremiah Guinn

  • #2
    I don't know to much about this model but I can tell you it's a Mako 22 from early to mid 1970's.

    This would predate the 221 and 224.

    Less deadrise then the later boats, probably around 12 degrees vs the 19 degrees of the 221/224.

    About half the fuel capacity of the later models.

    Looking at it current condition not worth much. If you get it back to running driving condition probably wont be worth any more then you put into it. Good chance you'll loss money if you sell.
    Long Island, New York

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    • #3
      I would stay away unless you have about $15k and a couple of years to spare.
      1971 Angler 17[br]2000 Johnson 150[br]Miami, Fl

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      • #4
        thanks the replies so far.

        yes it does seem like a task. although i wasn't sure if a good snad and wax might really bring it back. that is something i guess to judge up close.

        it can be bought for around $600 on the trailer so i know the money is at least there for the trailer.

        this would be a river boat here in TN.

        would anyone know if this boat had wood floors or fiberglass? or would it be wood coated in finberglass?

        thanks guys for your expertise
        Jeremiah Guinn

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        • #5
          to be clear, i'm not looking to repair and resell, i would enjoy the time and customization, to an extent

          i just wouldn't want to be tied up with $15k in a $5k boat
          Jeremiah Guinn

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          • #6
            I personally wouldnt have an interest in the shallow deadrise early 70s 22. If you are not concerned about that, go for it, but be prepared it may be a big project.
            ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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            • #7
              what would be ill effects of the shallow deadrise im not familiar with it
              Jeremiah Guinn

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              • #8
                Deadrise is essentially the "V" in the bottom of the hull. Looking at that boat from the rear the transom has a very shallow or low angle. If you were to measure the angle from a flat plane at the keel to the edge of the hull the number will be a low value vs that of an offshore deep V hull with a more severe angle. The deadrise is not a fixed value in most hulls and the angle changes as you move forward along the keel of center of the hull. That particular hull appears to have a low or shallow deadrise at the transom and midhull. Therefore the hull would perform better in smoother water vs offshore lets say in rough seas. If your intentions are to use it as a river boat I think it would work for you.
                [br]94 Mako 181 Flats w/[br]2001 Merc 150xr6[br]Owned since 2000[br]

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                • #9
                  Things to consider. It has FL registration numbers which means that boat has seen good use over the years and probably year round use back in the day. It has bottom paint which means it sat in the water for extended time. It is a wood stringer, deck, and transom under the fiberglass. Be prepeared to repair or replace. The fuel tank is aluminum and will need to be replaced without a doubt. Those are your major concerns. Everything else is cosmetic and a good pressure wash may reveal a diamond in the rough.
                  [br]94 Mako 181 Flats w/[br]2001 Merc 150xr6[br]Owned since 2000[br]

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                  • #10
                    These boat's are like the ocean. You can go in as deep as you want. If you just want it usable, you might be able to live with a few soft spots in the floor or an old rubrail.

                    - You've got a very good chance of a bad fuel tank.

                    - Transom is likely soaked but might be usable for a little while.

                    - I'd be willing to bet your floor is soft in a lot of places-particularly around the console and wherever the water has been collecting.

                    - Wood core along the gunnels is probably rotten and won't hold a screw.

                    - Your electrical is probably shot but how many devices do you plan on running-probably not too big of a deal breaker

                    - Then there's a lot of smaller dollar items like steering cables, fuel hoses, rod holders, decals, hardware, step pads and trim, decals, stereo....that just continue to add up

                    The good thing about a project is that you really get to make it your own. Once it's proven to keep the water out, you can do as much or little as you want. Can you get in way over your head...absolutely. If you want to take this boat and make into one of the beautiful projects you can find on this board, you're likely to spend much more than it will be worth-particularly in an area where you don't find too many saltwater boats. It's all up to you.

                    I have been tearing apart old Makos for almost 4 years now, have spent close to $20,000 and still don't have a working boat! I spend more time working on my boats than I will using one, whenever it is that I finish. I enjoy it. I still manage to get out fishing as much now as I will when I have my own boat so it doesn't matter much to me.

                    If you want a nice boat on a budget so you can go out boating next spring, go find one. If that's not the most important thing and you think getting a little itchy might be fun... $600 for a decent trailer isn't such a bad deal. Good luck!
                    Dave [br]Woodbury Heights, NJ[br]\'73 Mako 20[br]\'85 Mako 254[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=55336[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52586

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                    • #11
                      Shallow deadrise means it will run OK with less horsepower and will be more stable. You are talking about in an inland river boat..not big waves so deep dearies is not a necessity...shallower draft will be. Put a 150 hp 4s on that hull and it will probably run 25 mph at 3 mpg or better.
                      Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

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                      • #12
                        You guys are great for these comments. I plan to go give it the once over in person before i make any moves. What arr signs that i can look for besides soft floors?
                        Jeremiah Guinn

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                        • #13
                          Besides the floor, look for cracks along the top of the transom along the motor well. If it's cracking and opening up it might be a problem. But with the way the motor well is made, that will help support the transom.

                          If it hasn't been answered, it has a 20" transom.

                          If it has deck hatches over the tank, open them up and see how wet it is down there. That may give an indication of the tank.
                          2007 Everglades 243 250 Suzuki[br]1988 201 Yamaha 200 - Sold[br]1990 261 T/200 SWS - Sold[br]1978 25 225 Johnson - Sold[br]1975 20 85 Merc - Sold[br]Jacksonville, FL[br]

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                          • #14
                            I owned a 1976 Mako 22 that is now for sale on my local Craigslist for $16500 with a new engine, new deck, new fuel tank, and wiring.

                            $600 on the trailer is a good deal, but just know you will spend some money on it.

                            Mine has a 225 on it, which was more than enough. The deck is marine plywood with glass on both sides as all boats were built back then.

                            Just because it has bottom paint does not mean it lived in the water. My 254 had bottom paint on it and was never in the water more than 3 days and lived in a high and dry. The paint was actually falling off it was so dried out.

                            It is a nice open boat and I like the idea of the seat/live well that runs across the back of the boat. Would make a nice bench seat with a back rest installed.

                            The transom is low though at 20" and most people do raise them to a 25". There is not a ton of storage from what I remember as the bow area is not open, but it could be done and I believe someone did on this site.
                            \'07 Mako 19 bay, sold[br]\'76 Mako 21, sold[br]\'77 Mako 21, dump[br]\'77 Mako 22, sold[br]\'80 Mako 23 WA, sold[br]\'82 Mako 21, sold[br]\'85 Mako 254 currently[br]\'78 J24 USA 292 (sold)[br]\'05 Melges 32 racing sailboat

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                            • #15
                              It looks exactly like my 72. Personally, I would take the $600 gamble, but thats me. I paid $2700 for mine in March 2015. Needed way more work than I realized and am now in for almost $25k. Cant stop now so I keep chugging along. There is sentimental value to mine so thats why Im havin* the work done. My grandfather bought it brand new in March 1972. My father kept that boat until 1993. I found it on Craigs List in March of 15 and been having it restored since. I had the transom raised to 25, had all of the wood replicated, new Algrip in and out, 225 Suzuki, and Nu-Teak flooring laid over the new floor. Also replaced the tank. I would have never bought THIS boat if not for the sentimental value,,

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