No announcement yet.

Transom layup for 261

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Transom layup for 261

    I’m in the process of enclosing the transom, replacing the stringers, adding knee supports etc etc. On the inside of the transom I filled the corners with cabosil/poly resin after installing 1.5” Kay cell (30lb coosa). Then did 3 layers of 1708 tabbing extending onto the hull a good 6”. Then laid up a layer of 1.5oz csm on the transom core followed by 4 layers of 1708. I was planning on 6-8 layers but a friend of mine who’s been in the business and with Contender for over 30yrs told me it was already over built and not to add anymore weight. I will be installing an A&J 30” setback bracket and hanging twin Yamaha 4.2 300’s.
    I know a few members have done this same project and I’d like to know y’all’s thoughts please!

  • #2
    I had A&J make my bracket, and had it made deeper for extra flotation. Some have had their flotation portions of the bracket made wider as well. I would do that too if I were to do it again.

    The back of my transom was 16 degrees and the back of the bracket was built to match. I had to add 5 degree wedges to keep the boat from porpoising without using trim tabs.. Others have had the back of their brackets made at 20 degrees to eliminate the need for wedges.


    • #3
      Gator how many layers of 1708 do you think I need? I ordered my bracket in June but I’ll give them a call and if I have time to make the changes to 20 degree I’ll do that too


      • #4
        I called A&J in time. They just had it tacked together so they’re going to change the angle on the engine side of the bracket to 20 degrees. It was to late to change the width for extra flotation though.


        • #5
          I cut out my wood from the inside as I was completely redoing the inside deck in the stern. Most seem to remove the wood from the outside. On the outside I just used glass to bring the section where the cutout used to be up to level with what was exisiting.

          On the inside I had removed all the glass and wood and replaced with 3 layers of 1/2" Coosa, with one 1.5 oz chop and one 1708 between layers. On the inside of the Coosa I alternated 1 - 1.5 oz chop and 1 - 1708 4 times for a total of 8 layers. Probably didn't need that much. The first piece extended a couple of inches on either side, and each successive piece I made a little longer so I didn't end up with a hard edge.

          It was probably overkill as the transom ended up almost 3" thick, but I was putting twin 300's back there and I didn't want to worry about it.


          • #6
            This pic shows how the inside looked after I glassed the transom in.


            • #7
              That’s a good looking layup! I’m doing mine from the inside too. Maybe I’ll add a couple more layers of 1.5 csm and 1708. Like you I’d rather have it over built


              • #8
                Not as pretty as yours