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how do I secure my fuel tank

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  • how do I secure my fuel tank

    Got a new fuel tank, my understanding is that foam is out... so how should I secure it?? Ive removed all the old gas soaked foam, the boat is a '72 CC Thanks!!

  • #2
    You either foam it in or the tank needs tabs welded on it to lag bolt it in. Either way coat the tank with Coal Tar epoxy before it's installed.

    If you decide to foam it in you need to use 4lb denisity.

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    • #3
      Do you have to do anything to the aluminum to prepare it for the Coal Tar Epoxy.
      Ray Burger[br]Cajun Custom Rods[br]1984 Mako 254[br]Denham Springs

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      • #4
        Yes I would start by cleaning it with wax&grease remover. Get that at auto paint supply store. Then sand it with a DA sander with 80gt on it.

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        • #5
          I thought I read that foam is against the law...?

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          • #6
            If it is a whole lot of boat manufactures would be out of business.

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            • #7
              foaming in the fuel tank I meant...

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              • #8
                Rough up the surface of the tank with the DA or a sander of some sort. Then etch it with alumabrite or some product like that. Next let it dry real good and roll on a coat of zinc chromate primer. Then roll on 2 coats of the coal tar epoxy.

                I have heard that foaming tanks in is agaisnt Coast Guard regulations. But they too are running around in boats (Mako, Boston Whaler, and etc.) that all have foamed in tanks. If you foam in the tank and coat the top of the foam with 2 coats of epoxy resin the foam shouldn't absorb any water. Another good idea is to make sure that the hatch over the tank is sealed well too.
                Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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                • #9
                  Thanks Ring, and thanks for your help in ordering the tank!!

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                  • #10
                    What is the reason for outlawing the foam around a fuel tank??
                    18ft MonArk tri-hull: 140HP Mercruiser Alpha One - still in pieces...to be continued[br](I know it\'s not a Mako, but hey, its mine!)[br] Time\'s fun when you\'re having flies![br]president/hostmaster:[br]P.Ring Technologies[br]Cornerstone IT, LLC[br]LOUISIANA WEB HOST, LLC.[br]CompTIA Certified Professional A+/Network+ // Microsoft Registered Partner

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                    • #11
                      Right, but what's the alternative to foaming it in?

                      Metal straps?

                      Have new tank built with a built-in mounting bracket or two?

                      ...
                      NYC & L.I. - 1974 \"Classic\" Mako 20\' - Suzuki 2006 DF150 - Fly & Light Tackle, C&R[br]My boat: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23444#159594[br]Personal website: http://www.georgemcauliffe.com/

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                      • #12
                        Biff123 Even better than straps would be plates welded to the tank that lag bolt into the stringers. Now if you do that you will have to do some pre planning in order that they are in the correct position. This is all done before the tank is built, but it can be taken care of after the tank is built.

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                        • #13
                          If tabs or flanges are used it would be a good idea to work with an experienced tank fabricator. Two tank failures I've observed in our construction equipment have been associated with flanges for bolting down the tank. One tank was a hydraulic tank and the other a water tank. Both were steel and failed at the junction of the tank wall and the flange. The mounting systems included vibration dampening mounts.

                          I'm sure flange or tab mounts can be made to perform properly, but it probably involves some engineering or experience data.
                          Ole Joe
                          Just floundering around
                          White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
                          1978 Mako 25

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