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  • paint recommendation ?

    l'll be painting my 17 next weekend with the roll and tip method. i thought i had decided on interlux perfection, but they do not make a light blue or sky blue that we are wanting. i then looked at Brightside, which does have a light blue, but it does not have the best reviews. any recommendations on a good paint to roll and tip that carries light blue?
    Matt221[br]\'89 Mako 221 w/ Zuke 250[br]\'77 Mako 17\' Angler (under construction)[br]Auburn,AL[br]

  • #2
    Awlgrip
    ..........
    Billy[br]1974 Mako23 CC Cuddy IO[br]200hp Cummins Mercruiser Diesel w/ Bravo 3X Drive[br]Bellport Long Island NY[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=42355#319618[br][/URL][br]

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    • #3
      OR id="Times New Roman">id="size3">id="Century Gothic">Gelcoat
      Charles-Pearland,TX
      Sea Reel- 1977 Mako 25 SOLD
      Phe Phe's 17- 1978 Mako 17 Standard-in TX

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      • #4
        Brightsides is a single part.

        Awlgrip is a good choice, Sterling has it too.

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        • #5
          ok. thanks. i thought i saw something that said awlgrip would not roll and tip - but i just read the application instructions and it says you can. Question -will 1 quart of color cover both sides of my little 17?
          Matt221[br]\'89 Mako 221 w/ Zuke 250[br]\'77 Mako 17\' Angler (under construction)[br]Auburn,AL[br]

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          • #6
            quote:


            Originally posted by Matt221


            ok. thanks. i thought i saw something that said awlgrip would not roll and tip - but i just read the application instructions and it says you can. Question -will 1 quart of color cover both sides of my little 17?



            awlcraft won't roll and tip

            google some youtube vids. some people have had great luck with just rolling awlgrip, no tipping. they added more reducer than recommended
            [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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            • #7
              Mr D likely knows better then me, but I was told you can roll and tip just about any paint? Is all about having the right consistency. But I do have the ? there so please don't quote me. I have done both, I have rolled and tipped, on my own twice with interlux Brightside, and payed someone to spray awlgrip for me twice. That being said the brightside was the perfect consistency right out of the can for rolling and tipping, no thinner or any additives needed whatsoever. But the end result was much better spraying with awlgrip as long as its prepped right. And the longevity will be much longer with the awlgrip, you can see how the 2 part paint hardens to a hard eggshell finish where the Brightside has a softer feel to it. If possible have it sprayed with a good 2 part paint and have it done by a local shop where maybe you can save some $ doing most of the prep work? Just my 2 cents, good luck man!

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              • #8
                quote:


                Originally posted by ddd222


                Mr D likely knows better then me, but I was told you can roll and tip just about any paint?



                I'm not sure why, but that is what awlgrip states about Awlcraft. I would think the same as you. Am I going to buy an $80 qt and $50 reducer to challenge them, no [][]
                [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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                • #9
                  Mrdelgado, are you drawing a distinction between the "awlcraft" line and the "awlgrip topcoat" paints? or are you refering to all awlgrip paints?
                  Matt221[br]\'89 Mako 221 w/ Zuke 250[br]\'77 Mako 17\' Angler (under construction)[br]Auburn,AL[br]

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                  • #10
                    quote:


                    Originally posted by Matt221


                    Mrdelgado, are you drawing a distinction between the "awlcraft" line and the "awlgrip topcoat" paints? or are you refering to all awlgrip paints?



                    Both are products of Awlgrip.

                    Awlgrip - Polyester Urethane, can be sprayed or rolled, not to be color sanded and buffed, mixed 1:1

                    AwlCraft 2000 - acrylic urethane, can only be sprayed, Mixed 2:1, can be sanded and buffed
                    [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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                    • #11
                      great info! thanks mrdelgado!
                      Matt221[br]\'89 Mako 221 w/ Zuke 250[br]\'77 Mako 17\' Angler (under construction)[br]Auburn,AL[br]

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                      • #12
                        I've roll painted (never sprayed) a dozen or so boats with Signature Finish which is an LP much like Imron, Sterling, Awlgrip, Alexseal, etc. It is super easy to mix and apply and you can get pretty much any color you want. I've even chosen colors off a Behr's house paint chart at Home Depot and just told them what color. They got the same color chart and matched it perfectly. For best finish/least orange peel, I thin it to the max (6 parts reducer/flow fluid) and apply with an epoxy grade foam roller cover (Redtree or West Systems). "Tipping" is accomplished with the same roller cover after it begins to "dry" out. Simply go back over the area you wet out and very lightly roll to flatten the paint and pop any micro bubbles. The more flow fluid, the thinner it lays down but it also takes longer to cure between coats and it takes more coats for full coverage. But, the end result is worth it. You could put 4-5 coats on your boat with 2-3 quarts of paint. In fact, I used exactly 1 pint (8 oz paint, 2 oz catalyst, 6 oz flow fluid) per coat on my 32 footer (from waterline to rub rail). A little goes a LONG way.

                        I've seen equally good results with just about all the other paints I mentioned so it really comes down to what you're most comfortable with. I just like the simplicity of Signature Finish. Like most LPs, It's super shiny and tough as nails.
                        Get Down Fishing Charters[br]http://www.capecanaveralfishingcharters.com

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                        • #13
                          Anyone have any experience with the Genius Bucket from EMC? It uses Quantum Topcoat. Saw some good reviews, and looks super easy. One guy did it, just rolling no tipping, and says he couldn't tell the difference between that and a couple thousand dollar job that was sprayed. Curious to see how accurate that is
                          Dustin[br]1985 Mako 224 w/ E-tec 250hp [br]St. Pete, FL[br]

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                          • #14
                            I've been using Pettit EZPoxy and I love the way it lays out! If you take a little extra time, it will look like a mirror when you're finished. If you prime, don't hesitate to wet sand it with some 320 grit until you have it perfectly smooth. Thin it per the directions (one ounce per half quart) and add a ounce of the performance enhancer (hardener). Roll it with a foam roller and lightly drag a slightly damp brush (dip it in the paint) to knock out the bubbles and high spots. It will flow and lay out flat. I can't be happier with the way it worked on mine. There are some pictures on another post; perhaps it is the sky blue you're looking for? I believe it is called Blue Ice.

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                            • #15
                              as was said by fletch I think, if you go with the roll and tip method, it likely can be accomplished a couple different ways. But the "tipping" portion of, what we found worked best was a good natural hair brush,think he said he was able to do with a roller,and was really just to get rid of or smooth out any bubbles or excess

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