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Teak Restoration-Mako 1988 231

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  • Teak Restoration-Mako 1988 231

    Hello everyone,

    Prepping for a winter project. I'm going to strip the wood on my mako 1988 231 and varnish it. The wood has never been touched. Planning on cleaning and sanding, then using Epifanes high gloss varnish. 7-8 coats then re-install on the hull

    Any teak experts here? Trying to figure out what sand-paper to go with and if I should be looking into other varnishes.

    Thanks,

    Hank

  • #2
    Epifanes is very good. I've used a number of varnishes and I really like it.

    You can start with 220 between coats than back it off to 400 between coats -- light sands just to knock down any imperfections.

    I'd do 10 coats while you have it all off. The coats are the easy part compared with removing the teak.

    From there, depending on amount of sun it sees, I'd recommend 3-4 maintenance coats every 2-3 years.
    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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    • #3
      Thanks for the tips-will start with 220 and head to 400. 10 coats it is. Yes-removing the teak will be a challenge.

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      • #4
        Lots of folks like badger hair brushes...throw-away foam brushes work well too.
        ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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        • #5
          I'm not a fan of varnishes. I have used the sickens product on 3 previous boats and love it. If applied properly, will last for 4 to 5 years with a high shine.
          Brian Duff[br]1988 Mako 211-Sold [br]1991 Mako 231 special edition[br]2001 Yamaha 250 ox66[br]Toms River, NJ[br][br]

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          • #6
            Not a fan of varnishes. I prefer the Sickens products. If applied properly, the finish will last 4 to 5 years.
            Brian Duff[br]1988 Mako 211-Sold [br]1991 Mako 231 special edition[br]2001 Yamaha 250 ox66[br]Toms River, NJ[br][br]

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            • #7
              Varnish will lift.

              Before:



              A few days of hard core sanding and scraping and some use of a heat gun, then

              After:

              6 coats teak sealer. 6 coats teak oil. Good 'ol Dalys products made here in the Pacific North West on Puget Sound.

              Ship n Shore is the sealer.

              Two days dry between each coat.





              1977 21 footer. Hmmm. It is 21 feet 10 inches down the centerline so is it a 22? Another Mako mystery.

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              • #8
                Varnish will lift if neglected.

                It taken care of and maintenance coats are applied it is the best looking wood option out there.
                ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                • #9
                  quote:


                  Originally posted by Justin


                  Epifanes is very good. I've used a number of varnishes and I really like it.


                  You can start with 220 between coats than back it off to 400 between coats -- light sands just to knock down any imperfections.

                  I'd do 10 coats while you have it all off. The coats are the easy part compared with removing the teak.

                  From there, depending on amount of sun it sees, I'd recommend 3-4 maintenance coats every 2-3 years.


                  I used epifanes as well.I started with west system epoxy for first layer.In total,I lost count but feel like it's 12-15 coats.I'm very happy with how it's held up.No flaking around the screws and only worn place is on trim below console.It's where I always prop my foot up when driving(always!).

                  http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.a...46&whichpage=8

                  http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.a...6&whichpage=11
                  1985 Mako 21B w/ 2013 Yamaha F300[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=42046 [br]1967 Boston Whaler 13\'[br]1971 Boston Whaler 13\'[br]Richmond Hill,GA[br]

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                  • #10
                    I had great results with epifanes as well. However I have heard that Awlgrip has a product called Awlwood that is supposed to be good. They claim more coats in a day, compared to only 1 coat per day with most other varnishes. Anyone tried the Awlwood? Also i think its pretty expensive.
                    [br]Portsmouth , VA[br]1981 Mako 17

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                    • #11
                      quote:


                      Originally posted by map120277


                      I had great results with epifanes as well. However I have heard that Awlgrip has a product called Awlwood that is supposed to be good. They claim more coats in a day, compared to only 1 coat per day with most other varnishes. Anyone tried the Awlwood? Also i think its pretty expensive.



                      I'm freindly with the interlux regional rep, he was showing it to me this winter. Looks like a cool system, 'supposedly' lasts longer than anything else out there, looks really really good, but it is CRAZY expensive.

                      Personally, I like Eddy's clear imron over epoxy...both for looks and what I would perceive to be longevity
                      1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]

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                      • #12
                        Update on this. I put down two coats of interlux inter prime wood sealer. Next going to sand with 220 to knock off any shine and put 3 coats of awl spar 3131 and Epifanes 50:50 ratio. Finally, three coats of Epifanes high gloss finish using scotch brite and tack cloths between coats.

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                        • #13
                          I bet it comes out great post up some pictures!
                          [br]Margate NJ[br]1989 Mako 211[br]2009 Etec 200 HO

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