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231 Transom Job

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  • 231 Transom Job

    Anyone do a transom on a 231. I have an '89 since it was new and the top has delaminated and cracked from completely across. Looks like the two pieces of 3/4" ply have come apart. The crack was under a piece of L-shaped aluminum that hid it for I don't know how long, but water was getting in so there is some rot. Seem solid 1/2 way up from the bottom.

    Another question. If I have to redo the transom, I was thinking about raising the deck in the splash well level with the rest and installing scuppers through the transom. That way I can do away with the standard drains that have always been slow and a pain in the next. Has anyone tried that and has it been successful?

    Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
    [br]Mako To Go, Brick, NJ [br]1989 Mako 231 CC[br]250 Optimax[br]

  • #2
    There is a lot going on with transom rebuilds. They may not be exactly the same year as your boat, but the steps are the same.

    Check the restoration area. The cencis is now leaning toward Cossa board for the new core. http://www.coosacomposites.com/

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    • #3
      Gary,

      Happy to have you aboard. Caught a glimpse of you on the tube yesterday. I did not catch which show, you were on a bigger sportfisherman cathing kings I think. Just caught a quick glimpse of the show during a quick coffee break. The wife was not long chasing me back out of the house. She said I smelled like resin. Imagine that.

      Like bobby said, we have quite a few different transom rebuilds going on. There are some slight variations in materials, but the general procedure is the same. It sounds like your transom is going the way Rings did. His ply delaminated between the sheets as well, if I remember correctly. Did the water get in through the screw holes holding the L aluminum down?

      Keep an eye on my pages. My boat is quite a bit older and the stock design is a little diferent, but I had the same idea. The new floor is going straight to the transom with scuppers straight through. The floor should be done by next weekend. The stock drains do suck, I agree.
      Greenwich, NJ[br]1976 22B

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      • #4
        Thanks for the replies, Shep and Warthog 5.

        The show is something called "All About Fishing" with Mike Surmack. I don't get the channel here so I didn't even see it. I was with Jon Werman, president of Rugged Shark Marine Footwear and we were fishing sails and being harassed by kings. Damn, they can chop a $5 goggleye in half faster than you can say Abe Lincoln! My regular jobs consist of offshore editor of Salt Water Sportsman, working for the RFA and doing consulting for companies in the industry including Rugged Shark. With all that on my plate projects like the transom of my 231 are out of the question and way above my expertise level. I can rig electronics with the best of them, replace teak with starboard, do lots of other things too, but major glass repairs leave me scratching my head...and anything else that comes into contact with the glass mat.

        The boat went to a local boat repair guy who has a great rep. He's close enough and cordial enough that I can check on him almost daily and see what the damage is and how he is handling it. If he has to replace the transom the job is going to cost me $3500. If I did it myself between time and materials it would probably cost that much.

        You hit the nail with the water getting into the transom under the aluminum cap, but not through the screw holes. The delamination was bad enough that it cause the top of the transom under the cap to split from end to end and the cap was not well sealed so water was getting under it and right into the wood through the crack. Until he starts grinding we're not sure how far down the rot goes. If it needs a complete reworking he is planning on gringing off the outer glass leaving a lip about 2" wide around the edge, removing the rotted wood and making a new wood replacement and sealing the pants off it.

        We discussed the scupper situation and he can cut them in, but isn't sure how well they will perform. The waterline is just an inch or two below where they would be at the current splash-well height. I might end up just replacing the old system and continue wearing boots in the cold and sandals in the warm.
        [br]Mako To Go, Brick, NJ [br]1989 Mako 231 CC[br]250 Optimax[br]

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        • #5
          Gary, who is doing the transom work on your boat? My Mako need some glass work done. As we live in the same area any recommendations would be of great help. Also are you keeping your boat over at Cristal Point? got a quote of 3,700 to keep my boat there. That hurt!!

          Pat
          79mako23

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          • #6
            Gary, I'd have him raise the back deck up to level with the rest of the deck. Then go ahead and have him put in some drains through the transom. In many of the Makos through the years, they put 2 pairs of brass sleeve type through hulls thingys (I can't recall the real name). They put a pair of them on each side and put a flapper over then on the outside. You can plug the holes from the inside... Or you can do what Jim did here: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=206

            The top of these transoms are crap. There is no glass along the top edge, well maybe one layer... But the rest is a 1/2" thick layer of polyester resin putty. That stuff is so brittle that it cracks to bits quick. Heres what mine looked like when I grinded out all that putty.



            You could drive a truck through that gap between the sheets! There was zero evidence of any resin that may have been glueing the sheets together.

            Sounds like an outside transom repair is what your guy is talking about. If I were him, I'd try to leave a 3-4" margin around the sides. It just gives a little more for him to scarf onto for glassing it back together. The outside method is not the method of choice for many, but if you have a pristine inner liner and don't want to chop it up... Well it starts to sound like a pretty good idea. I'm sure your guy will do a good job. You ought to try talking him into using vinylester resin for the job... Even offer him a few bucks more. Vinylester is head and shoulders better over polyester.
            Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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            • #7
              Hi Pat,

              Damn, I had to come to ClassicMako.com to run into you. How you been bud? I'm using John West. He has a place off Wykoff Road in Colts Neck near the ice skating rink. PHone is 732-922-1551. He was recommended by a mutual friend who has been recommending work to him for years. He is far more reasonable than other glass guys I talked to.

              Hey Ringleader. If I go to all the trouble to raise the deck and put in drains I don't know if I'd recognize the boat. Fishing without boots on would be pretty novel. LOL!

              He's probably going to start grinding tomorrow so I will check in and see what he finds. I'll bring the camera, too.
              [br]Mako To Go, Brick, NJ [br]1989 Mako 231 CC[br]250 Optimax[br]

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              • #8
                Yeah, if I ever get mine back in the water, I'll be very confused if there is a dry deck. I may have to stop up my drains and flood it just for old times sake.
                Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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