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  • 261 trailer

    Just bought a 1990 261 cc and need a trailer. I am going to buy a new one, was thinking about a tri axel float on style. I only pull it in and out of the water a few times a year, so I really can't justify the expense of a roller style buggy. Anyone got any suggestions or what works for you? Just want to cover all my angles for I make a purchase. Thxs Tim
    1990 261 Mako, pair of 250 Yamaha ox66s[br]1986 13\' Boston Whaler, under construction.[br]1983 17\' Mako. Sold.[br]1974 16\' Donzi baby 16\' outboard. Sold.[br]Toys that don\'t float-[br]1999 Peterbilt 850+ hp Cat.[br]2011 H-D Road glide 103 inch motor[br]Point Shore,[br]Merrimack River, Massachusetts[br][br][br]

  • #2
    The only suggestion I would make is that you don't need a tri-axle trailer for that boat. Tandem axle trailers can be had up to 10,000#'s, so if it were me, I'd go tandem axle with stainless disc brakes on both axles. Beyond that, the options (alum vs galv, springs vs torsion axles, ect.) are up to you and your wallet. []

    Good luck!
    Capt Kevin ~~~><((((*>[br][br] 2520 MVSC \"Chesapeake Edition\"[br]Annapolis, Maryland[br]http://ClassicParker.com/

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    • #3
      Bunks are the best way to go for sure, not rollers, in my opinion. Make sure it has LED lights, with side markers, and the over 80" wide marker on the back in the center. All stainless hardware for sure. The way I always check for quality is in the wiring, anyone can weld/bolt some pieces together but finish work is where it counts in my book. If its crimped at the connections I would never buy it. When doing electrical around water or not its always the best to be soldered. Im sure Bobby will agree, solder, cover in silicon and heat shrink every connection. Alot of guys do it just look. Brakes I like disc but my boat does not need them as its only a 19 so I cant share my expertise there but I know many guys can.

      PS put your location in you profile, you can do it up at the top right of the screen. If your around here, Tampa, I can shoot in the the right direction.
      John S.[br]Lutz, FL aka Tampa[br]Currently transplanted to Tallahassee

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      • #4
        I agree on the 10,000GVW 2 axle.

        I have never seen a trailer company that didn't use 3M Scotchlock's.[xx(]

        The guy's in New England have a tendency to go with a roller trailer. This is due to the Super high & low tide's they get compaired to Fl.

        With that said, I like the way bunk trailers fit the boat especially with foward keel bunk's[:x)] Wooble roller's can be a pain and expensive to replace.

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        • #5
          ACE trailers here in Tampa does it the right way, or so he claims when I called him looking for axles. Its not even a huge deal to rewire them, but hell if your buying a new trailer no reason you have to tear it apart when you can have them do it right the first time.
          John S.[br]Lutz, FL aka Tampa[br]Currently transplanted to Tallahassee

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          • #6
            Scotchlocks are for the PHONEMAN,, not boat trailers,, I should know I'm a Phoneman
            Richard[br]Panama City,FL[br]Currently Looking for a MAKO[br]America needs Obamacare like Nancy Pelosi needs a halloween mask[br]

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            • #7
              I agree, but there are diffrent kind's of Scotchlock's that 3M makes.

              The standard Blue one's you see on trailer's just invite water to wick up the wiring.


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              • #8
                I knew the ones you were talking about Bobby,, my trailer used to have them, but not no more, Scotchlock is a term that alot of companys use for anything that crimps.
                Richard[br]Panama City,FL[br]Currently Looking for a MAKO[br]America needs Obamacare like Nancy Pelosi needs a halloween mask[br]

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                • #9
                  I know nothing about wiring but do recall reading on another board that I'm on (for Jeep Cherokees) that in an enviroment subject to vibrations solder is not the best choice because it gets brittle. The guy was actually a helicopter mechanic and said that code for that application called for crimping. Then again in the most recent Powerboats reports they review DC panels and state that they prefer crimps to solder due to the low melting point of solder.

                  Like I said, I know nothing about wiring both points seem valid so I thought I'd mention them. Anything wrong with the belts & suspenders approach of both crimps & solder?
                  1973 23\' SeaCraft Tsunami w/ 300hp Etec[br]Norwalk, CT

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                  • #10
                    I use crimp/shrink connector's. Then I use liquid elec tape to coat it and then slide shrink tubing w/glue over each connector.

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                    • #11
                      Im not sure how you would crimp and solder, unless you just tint the wires to seal them then crimp the two ends. But about the brittle factor, I dont think one a trailer it would be a problem as your not pulling the wires so tight there is tension on them. Nor the melting problems. On a helicopter I could see a huge engine melting wires and solder though. Whatever you decide just make sure its not bare pinch crimps like bobby has posted (the blue thing)
                      John S.[br]Lutz, FL aka Tampa[br]Currently transplanted to Tallahassee

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                      • #12
                        Actually there are solder and shrink connectors. You stick the wire's in and heat it with a heat gun. It's a low melt point solder.

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                        • #13
                          Tim,

                          Welcome to the forum. One important piece of info you left out was how often you'd be using the trailer and how long a distance you'd be taking it. If you're just doing local, short distance trailering, your requirements are a lot different from frequent trailering away from your local area. If you're making long distance trips, say to the Mid-Atlantic states or down here to Florida, you'll want a "high-quality" trailer.

                          I've seen a lot of trailers here in Florida and two of the best brands are Boat Master Trailers in Ft. Myers and Float-On over in Vero Beach. Their components and construction are top-notch -- they're not cheap, but if you're doing more than local area trips, they're worth a look.

                          http://www.boat-trailers.com For BoatMaster Trailers

                          http://www.floaton.com For Float-On Trailers.

                          Good Luck,

                          Tom
                          Prop Blast[br]Mako 224, F225[br]Tampa, FL

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                          • #14
                            Hey guys thanks for the help. I know what I am looking for as far as

                            specs go, no corners will be cut. The brand names was what I was looking for...there are just so many out there, esp in Fla. I am in Massachusetts, but it will go south in the winter. As far as tamdem/tri-axle debate....I'll take three anytime. Less heat with 6 tires at 85 mph vs just 4.
                            1990 261 Mako, pair of 250 Yamaha ox66s[br]1986 13\' Boston Whaler, under construction.[br]1983 17\' Mako. Sold.[br]1974 16\' Donzi baby 16\' outboard. Sold.[br]Toys that don\'t float-[br]1999 Peterbilt 850+ hp Cat.[br]2011 H-D Road glide 103 inch motor[br]Point Shore,[br]Merrimack River, Massachusetts[br][br][br]

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                            • #15
                              well as far as brands, I think continental makes a nice one.

                              Also, a local guy here makes them ACE trailers. He is actually on eBay too. They are nice I have seen a few rolling around town

                              http://www.ace-trailers.com
                              John S.[br]Lutz, FL aka Tampa[br]Currently transplanted to Tallahassee

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