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Need Advice on my 225 rude

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  • Need Advice on my 225 rude

    HEy guys,

    I am looking for advice to either keep my 87 225 rude or sell and buy a reman 225 from a reliable rude dealer.

    1. Lower sealer between the motor housing and the engine block has a leak in the seal. Still runs good but lost a little raw water intake pressure from the spitter.

    2. needs a good tune up from the dealer , because i ran the s#@t out of it last year and did a homemade winterizing with the fogging spray and the freash water flush.

    3. Tell you the truth "I LEARN EVERYTHING THE HARD WAY WITH EVERY ENGINE I OWNWEd"

    I know you guys (Michigan dave , warthog, ob1jeep) know engines so a little experience from you guys would be priceless.I was told by the clammers in the area that the engine is reliable , but would love to know what the best maintenance program for this engine is .

    thanks guys!!
    M & J[br] 86 228 Cuddy Cabin 225 rude[br]Sandy Hook NJ

  • #2
    See previous post:

    http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...?TOPIC_ID=4924

    Randy
    1988 Mako 231[br]Jackson, MS

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    • #3
      Thats a tuffy, if its still a good running sound engine I would be tempted to run it a while longer. Can you do a compression check on it to determine the overall health of the powerhead? Does the lower unit hold oil well and shift well? if so then start saving you money and run this unit till it starts to go bad or you have enough money for a newer motor. This is not the time of year for bargins on outboards. maybe this fall or winter. or next year. or the year after.hehe.. dave.
      [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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      • #4
        I agree with MD, if the lower unit is good and you have good compression, the rest is minimal to replace. It's an older engine so it's carbed and pretty basic. Just make sure you keep it tuned up (plugs, wires, impellor, fuel pumps, cleaned and adjusted carbs) and she'll be good to go. Sounds like you did 80% of the winterizing?flushing with antifreeze and fogging the engine are the important things to do. That's really all you can do on those engines, except maybe throw some fuel stabilizer in there. As far as the seal goes, i'm pretty sure all your raw water pressure is created at the pump in the lower unit, not in the head. but pulling the head and replacing the seal isn't a big deal, I think about 10 bolts and some accessories. SO in all, i would say buy a manual and keep the motor if the compression is good. I think paying a dealer $100+/hr for a tune up is a waste. Take that $100 and buy a grease gun, a small screw driver for the carb adjustments, a manual, spark plugs, impeller and a case of beer. Oh, and a good carb cleaner. I perfer to use a product called 'Sea Foam' for a carb cleaner which can be bought at autozone or NAPA. Regular carb cleaned dissolves oil and can dry out your piston rings, the sea foam is a silicone based product, so it will lubricate as it cleans. Good luck and if you have any question, post them here or i also ask engine related questions on

        http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ul...ubb=forum;f=28
        [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15745[br]1976 Mako 25[br]http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18013&SearchTerms=mako,25[br]

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        • #5
          What would you guys consider good compression for an older motor? My manual says that the amount is not as important as the differences in compression between cylinders. Mine has 80psi on all except two which have 75 or 78psi. Is this good or bad?
          Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

          Comment


          • #6
            All cylinders should be within 10 percent of each other. I would say you are in OK shape, with a decarb it will probably help the numbers. If she is not running premix....move it over........

            If the Lower unit is tight, no water amd shifts well, charging system charges, water pump pumps and motor runs well, I would run it till she pops, might be a long time.

            I have a 92 225 OMC and when it comes time.....not sure how I will react, new or reman. Blackbird does some nice work..........5K for a reman motor or 15K + for new ?????? 10 K buys a lot of beer and gas !

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            • #7
              I'm with you on that one. 10K goes a long waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay!
              Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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              • #8
                Yeah 10 k means a crap load of new goodies for the boat!!!!!! Anyway I was at the clammers dock and have set up a appointment with one of the oldtimers on the dock to teach me how to check compression and adjust the carb. Looks like I going to be able to buy that new leaning post that the boys ARC-Tek have planned for me. And put that new floor in with the Dura tek paint job on the floor. I'll try to post some pics as soon as i figure it out.

                Good luck on the fishing this weekend!!!!
                M & J[br] 86 228 Cuddy Cabin 225 rude[br]Sandy Hook NJ

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